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Finally got around to doing mine, unfortunately the original actuators had been replaced by Chinese crap. 3 new ones from Ford set me back $150 and they should last the life of the vehicle. The help on this site was invaluable, thank you to all the posters.
Thrown out the boxes but this video shows one from one side of the truck about half way thru it. Left and right have different part #s but your Ford dealer will know this.
Alright, I am not a mechanic by any means, but I'm getting there. Can someone explain to me how to get to the little motor or whatever? I can handle the rest from the original instructions, but I just need help getting there. I know how to remove the door panels and everything. Hopefully someone is paying attention to this thread still! Thanks guys!
Are you having trouble finding the actuator within the door once the panel is off? If so, with the panel off, move the door lock up and down. You'll see the rod inside the door moving with it. You can follow that rod down to the actuator. It is a little black box. I have some pictures earlier in this thread showing what it looks like (page 62 post #922). Once you find it, you can disconnect the rods coming from it, one for the keyhole, the other for the lock that slides up and down, plus the electrical connector, and it should pop right out.
And if I remember correctly, it helps to take a torx bit and remove the three bolts for the latching mechanism and move that out of the way. It gets a little tight in there. Hope this helps, feel free to ask more questions if needed!
I'm not aware of window locks in that sense. Are you asking about when the power window buttons stop opening/closing the windows after the key is removed?
Great fix, started on my door today with my Excursion to see if this was my problem and will be doing the other 3 when iv got more time. Thanks for all the info from everyone.
i have a 2009 f150 crew cab, and out of the blue my rear power door locks stopped working . they can only be unlocked manually. the front doors work just fine. I checked the fuses all were good and i checked to see if there were any loose wires and didn't see anything.
Has anyone els had this problem, if so any ideas on what could be the problem?
i have a 2009 f150 crew cab, and out of the blue my rear power door locks stopped working . they can only be unlocked manually. the front doors work just fine. I checked the fuses all were good and i checked to see if there were any loose wires and didn't see anything.
Has anyone els had this problem, if so any ideas on what could be the problem?
I'd first check to see how the 09 actuators compare with earlier years. If built with thermistors as many of the prior years, go back from the start and read the detail "meat and potatoes" of this post.
I think you'll find, as most of us have, a cure for this issue.
Well guess what I did today...mine stopped working few years ago. It sometimes would work but each successive use get weaker and weaker. Was going to address but it started working about 6 months ago all on its own. Then out of the blue refuses to unlock door, started 'twitching" again. Decided to fix before it started working?
I ended up soldering wire across the lil square.
I drilled out the steel rivots, I couldnt get the halves to spread enough to pull motor. Not fun but only one spun.
Reassembled with some nut and screws replacing rivets, pilot drilled and screwed case together.
Only issue I had was getting motor assy back on the latch. I had separated instead of removing everything, came apart slick but just could not get the slots to align. Finally removed the latch (all of 5 minuets) by removing inside handle so I could pull out latch enough to slide motor assy back on.
This thread invaluable.
My contribution as only thing I hadnt seen was pic of paper clip brush spreader inserted thru end bell.
Happy doors!
Edit oh this is on a 2001 F250 Std. cab, long bed, 4x4 manual everything...
Last edited by AnEv942; Jun 10, 2016 at 08:56 PM.
Reason: no sig
I did this fix on my 2001. Works great. Thank you! Seems to be a few different ways to do this, but the results are the same-- working door locks.
I used foil. Didn't even completely remove actuators. Left them hanging out the door by the cable.
I only pryed it apart enough to get the little motor out. Didn't have to drill out the 2 metal rivets. Used some cable ties to hold it together when done. I love this kind of stuff.