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Yeah but who knew there was a thermistor, I sure didn't, I would have bought new actuators thinking that they are an non-serviceable part. I did mine a couple of years ago, still going strong!
Yeah but who knew there was a thermistor, I sure didn't, I would have bought new actuators thinking that they are an non-serviceable part. I did mine a couple of years ago, still going strong!
Some people just like to take things apart..................like me.
Don't wrap it in foil!!! First off I want to say thank you for the write up, there is a lot of insight there that really helped me out. Instead of the foil, take a pair of pliers and squeeze the thermistor. This will bring the resistance readings back into specs and retain its safety features.
Don't wrap it in foil!!! First off I want to say thank you for the write up, there is a lot of insight there that really helped me out. Instead of the foil, take a pair of pliers and squeeze the thermistor. This will bring the resistance readings back into specs and retain its safety features.
I squeezed the motor by mistake but that did the trick
yall' take the wafer out and cram tin foil in there..........3 years on all 5 of mine.
Judging from the looks of the interior of your motor, mine must be burned out. Its covered with black on the armature and inside the plastic end of the motor that was removed - where the brushes are. I can't imagine that this would be dust from the brushes. Has anyone else experienced this?
OK 2 doors fixed now on drivers door anybody know how to repair a bad spot in the motor? I hook power to it and have to turn the plastic gear a little then it spins . I cleaned the contacts on post and the little ones on the plastic housing still same result
I used a piece of copper as one of the other posters suggested. Put everything back together, plugged it up to the truck (w/o actually placing it back in its position) and its as it was before, not working. Makes me wonder if perhaps it might be the switch instead.
I shouldn't have to have both doors fixed in order for either one of them to work should I? Wouldn't think so but just thought I'd ask.
Unplug actuator test with test light when you push the button one is power one is ground and it swaps when you hit lock and unlock if no power when you push lock button its prob bad but make sure to check both buttons if nothing from either check the relay under dash behind radio area
If you do have power and ground it may be bad motors in the actuator like I have on 1 door . Other 2 fixed . Cheapest places I found are rockauto.com or partsgeek.com
I should have tested those switches at the time I tested the actuators. Wasn't thinking. I'm not sure if a switch can sorta work. When I was testing the actuator, it would only respond in the lock direction and not in the unlock direction and it was a very weak effort at that. But that is the same direction that the aftermarket actuators I purchased would work - only in one direction - and I don't remember them sounding very strong either. Not like the locks used to work. I tried both of those new aftermarkets and they acted exactly the same. That is why I'm thinking that maybe there is something else going on there. I'll test the switches and see where that takes me.
Thanks for the replys. I'll post the results of the switch test.