Power Door Locks FIXED!!!!
#931
12-27-2013, 12:32 AM
Ahh, Brent, if you carve up a copper-coated zinc one-cent piece with an appropriate set of snippers, leaving the resultant the same size size as the original thermistor, it's simply plug-n-play.
There's no messy wrapping, and foil tearing and ripping, to be had.
Some of mine are foil, some are dead mini-Lincolns, but they've all been playing a torquin' tune for at least nine years so far.
If I had to do it again (Heaven forbid!), I'd invest in the coinage.
Of course, YMMV
Pop
There's no messy wrapping, and foil tearing and ripping, to be had.
Some of mine are foil, some are dead mini-Lincolns, but they've all been playing a torquin' tune for at least nine years so far.
If I had to do it again (Heaven forbid!), I'd invest in the coinage.
Of course, YMMV
Pop
#932
01-05-2014, 02:17 AM
I tried doing this fix on my 2010 F-150's rear passenger door.
I got the door panel off fine, but for the life of me I cannot get that door lock actuator out of the door.
I removed the 3 starhex screws that remove the locking mechanism, and opened up the small pink clip that holds the door rod, but the actuator will not fit out of the door.
Does anyone have some pics or something for a 2010?
thanks!
I got the door panel off fine, but for the life of me I cannot get that door lock actuator out of the door.
I removed the 3 starhex screws that remove the locking mechanism, and opened up the small pink clip that holds the door rod, but the actuator will not fit out of the door.
Does anyone have some pics or something for a 2010?
thanks!
#933
01-24-2014, 07:54 PM
I tried doing this fix on my 2010 F-150's rear passenger door.
I got the door panel off fine, but for the life of me I cannot get that door lock actuator out of the door.
I removed the 3 starhex screws that remove the locking mechanism, and opened up the small pink clip that holds the door rod, but the actuator will not fit out of the door.
Does anyone have some pics or something for a 2010?
thanks!
I got the door panel off fine, but for the life of me I cannot get that door lock actuator out of the door.
I removed the 3 starhex screws that remove the locking mechanism, and opened up the small pink clip that holds the door rod, but the actuator will not fit out of the door.
Does anyone have some pics or something for a 2010?
thanks!
Just prior, after disconnecting both power connections, the door locking tab rod, the key lock connector rod, and the exterior door pull rod, I could easily access the motor cover and remove.
Reading other posts about plastic rivets and the issues to require removal, mine has just four screws that easily remove the motor cover and access the motor.
I would believe an improved design from early models.
Edit... See Pop's post #179.
#934
01-25-2014, 12:49 PM
One additional caveat
SURPRISE! Remember he said he's had some of them replaced? Well, this is one of the "new-and-improved" actuators, which I've never seen before! A picture is below for those that haven't seen one.
This one comes apart easier, guys! Four small, Torx-headed screws hold it together, and the cover comes right off, revealing a different gear train inside, with a slightly larger motor. The motor shaft looks like it has some kind of clutch on it.
I pop the motor out of the shell, which is slightly more snug in its recess than the old style, but comes out just the same way, with two tiny connectors to pass current to it. Remove just the output shaft gear and set it aside so it doesn't fall off and get lost. Ignore the little white "clutch".
That's all there is to the newer-style ones. Just be sure you have a small-enough Torx driver. I'll post the size of the necessary Torx bit, but it's not here in front of me, and it's late.
Total time, an hour flat, including finding my misplaced small Torx set and explaining myself every step of the way. I was happy with it.
Pop
Over time, the gear on the end of the motor wears out where making contact with the clutch, not allowing the actuator to engage properly, but just spins the worn gear, making a grinding noise.
I originally thought my thermistor went bad also, foiled it up and re-installed. Guess what...same issue or result.
After pulling it apart again, I saw the worn gear issue and I then turned that gear around 180* and re-installed, knowing there were enough threads on the other end to engage with the actuator gear assembly.
Put all back together and back to original. Perfect!
If you have this newer style, just beware that this gear wears out and inspect or reverse once apart.
I tried finding a newer type picture in this post but way too many pages and of course, my camera was in the house.
And finally, the Torx bit Pop's refers to above is a very tiny bit, T-8.
#936
03-15-2014, 02:53 PM
#937
04-24-2014, 11:13 AM
#939
08-17-2014, 08:28 AM
Was quite skeptical of this procedure but after reading about all who did this fix decided to give it a try on driver's side door first.
Only change made was that I left the steel rivets on actuator in place, drilled off the plastic rivet tops and reassembled after repairing motor using two heavy duty cable ties instead of screws/bolts and this worked perfectly.
Cable ties were placed around actuator so as to not interfere with mechanism when actuator was reinstalled.
First door took about three hours, last of four doors took a half hour to do. Not as young and nimble as I used to be.
Only change made was that I left the steel rivets on actuator in place, drilled off the plastic rivet tops and reassembled after repairing motor using two heavy duty cable ties instead of screws/bolts and this worked perfectly.
Cable ties were placed around actuator so as to not interfere with mechanism when actuator was reinstalled.
First door took about three hours, last of four doors took a half hour to do. Not as young and nimble as I used to be.
#942
11-28-2014, 01:59 PM
#943
03-18-2015, 09:27 PM
Senior User
Okay finally broke down and tried this for the second time. Last year I thought I would do this. On my first attempt I tried to get the whole thing out through the inside of the door but could not get the door cable to come off and my hands were getting all cut up. I got frustrated and decided to put it back together. Before it was just my passenger door so I lived with it. Then drivers door started to quit.
This time I went back through this page and then watched a youtube video that shows taking the door handle all the way out and to bring the actuator out that way. This was so much easier this time. I did leave the two metal rivets and just pried open the case far enough to fish out the motor. Then just used one zip tie at the end by the motor.
Like everyone else I have been going outside to just unlock and lock my truck. Now I need to figure out how to pull the one apart on my Focus. Smaller door means tighter space. I might just leave that one.
A huge THANKS to KALSC, and to everyone else who posted their experiences.
This time I went back through this page and then watched a youtube video that shows taking the door handle all the way out and to bring the actuator out that way. This was so much easier this time. I did leave the two metal rivets and just pried open the case far enough to fish out the motor. Then just used one zip tie at the end by the motor.
Like everyone else I have been going outside to just unlock and lock my truck. Now I need to figure out how to pull the one apart on my Focus. Smaller door means tighter space. I might just leave that one.
A huge THANKS to KALSC, and to everyone else who posted their experiences.
#945
04-19-2015, 02:39 PM
Just curious if anyone has done this mod on a 2000 expedition. I pulled the door panel off today to look around, and my setup looks different than what I've seen in the pics here in earlier threads. I BELIEVE the actuator on mine is separate, and farther down in the door. Can anyone verify this is the correct location, and if the mod can still be done it would be greatly appreciated.