Power Door Locks FIXED!!!!
If it is a resistor problem you can get those at radio shack. Each resistor is color coded look to see the stripes of color on each write down the order the colors are in and that will give you the resistance value. that and a small soldering iron should do the trick. Looking into the same problem my self. this gives me someplace to start thanks.
i broke into mine the other day. i was going to do a actuator swap...come to find out the cable that pegs in to the inner door was pinning the door lock arm. loosened the cable, door lock started popping up/down like normal.
Just got around to doing this fix on my truck. Quite a neat little project! And free is nice too.
As I'm more of a visual person, and had no idea what I was looking for, I had some trouble with the instructions. User ssjrsw posted some pictures on the second page, which helped tremendously, but were still difficult to see since I was on my phone. So, I thought I would update with more pictures showing exactly what a newbie like me should be looking for.
First, here is a link to the article on the actual removal of the actuator from the door mechanism. 2000 Ford Excursion 4x4 - Door Lock Actuator Installation
First, after I drilled out the two rivets (which were a real pain), I pried open the case with a small flathead screwdriver. I made the mistake with the first one of trying to pop all the plastic rivets by pulling on one end and ended up snapping the top half of the case in two pieces. So pry a little at a time around the entire seam. Nothing a little superglue couldn't fix though.

Next, here is the inside of the actuator. I was thinking that the little thermal resistor was under the gears. After a little more reading through this thread, I realized it was inside the little motor.

And the two little metal tabs are on the top of the motor where the plastic cap is.

Here is the thermal resistor inside the cap of the motor, that just pulls right out with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also wiped everything down and used a little brush to get some of the dust out.


And here is the piece wrapped in aluminum foil, back in it's place.

After putting the motor back together, I broke off the little plastic rivets and put the two halves of the actuator together. Then I drilled holes where the plastic rivets were and put screws in.

I found a pack of #8 width, 1/2" length screws at Home Depot. Pack of 100 for about $4. They are a perfect size to grab the plastic case without splitting and short enough that they don't interfere with any moving parts when reinstalled.
Of course, something always has to go wrong when I work though. On the front passenger side, one of the torx head screw that holds the locking mechanism to the door was stripped. So I had to spend a fair amount of time drilling that screw out.
Other than that, everything went smoothly and easily, and now I have working locks! Hope the updated pictures helps someone like me who doesn't know what exactly to look for!
As I'm more of a visual person, and had no idea what I was looking for, I had some trouble with the instructions. User ssjrsw posted some pictures on the second page, which helped tremendously, but were still difficult to see since I was on my phone. So, I thought I would update with more pictures showing exactly what a newbie like me should be looking for.
First, here is a link to the article on the actual removal of the actuator from the door mechanism. 2000 Ford Excursion 4x4 - Door Lock Actuator Installation
First, after I drilled out the two rivets (which were a real pain), I pried open the case with a small flathead screwdriver. I made the mistake with the first one of trying to pop all the plastic rivets by pulling on one end and ended up snapping the top half of the case in two pieces. So pry a little at a time around the entire seam. Nothing a little superglue couldn't fix though.
Next, here is the inside of the actuator. I was thinking that the little thermal resistor was under the gears. After a little more reading through this thread, I realized it was inside the little motor.
And the two little metal tabs are on the top of the motor where the plastic cap is.
Here is the thermal resistor inside the cap of the motor, that just pulls right out with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also wiped everything down and used a little brush to get some of the dust out.
And here is the piece wrapped in aluminum foil, back in it's place.
After putting the motor back together, I broke off the little plastic rivets and put the two halves of the actuator together. Then I drilled holes where the plastic rivets were and put screws in.
I found a pack of #8 width, 1/2" length screws at Home Depot. Pack of 100 for about $4. They are a perfect size to grab the plastic case without splitting and short enough that they don't interfere with any moving parts when reinstalled.
Of course, something always has to go wrong when I work though. On the front passenger side, one of the torx head screw that holds the locking mechanism to the door was stripped. So I had to spend a fair amount of time drilling that screw out.

Other than that, everything went smoothly and easily, and now I have working locks! Hope the updated pictures helps someone like me who doesn't know what exactly to look for!
So awesome to see this. Haven't checked the forum for awhile. Cheers to everyone who continued to contribute to this. It's funny how the littlest thing can be the biggest thorn.
I just drilled the motor end rivets out and dropped the motor out and secured the case with rebar tie wire through the rivet holes and I just crammed tin foil where the wafer was. You didn't show how to get the brushes back in.
I first used the tips in this thread in 2009; since then I've fixed several friends' Fords--Superduties, F150's from 1997-2002 and a coupla Explorers. The lockmotor assemblies vary, but the electric motors all have the same thermistor trouble. Many thanks to Kalsc for originating this fixit!!











