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1997 - 2006 Expedition & Navigator 1997 - 2002 and 2003 - 2006 Ford Expedition and Lincoln Navigator Discussion

Odometer Blackout Problem Fixed!!!

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Old Apr 25, 2011 | 04:41 PM
  #256  
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peakay
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anyone have any feedback on this??
 
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Old May 11, 2011 | 09:13 PM
  #257  
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Great Information in this thread!

After years my dad's 1999 F 150 odometer in now visable thanks to this thread. The instructions were spot on and ther repair has,thusfar, worked perfectly. Many thanks!
 
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Old Jun 14, 2011 | 12:49 PM
  #258  
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will this work on a 2002 mustang as well?
 
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Old Jun 14, 2011 | 12:55 PM
  #259  
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It may, Ford seems to have used the same design (not always the same size) boards in most of their clusters of that time.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2011 | 02:09 PM
  #260  
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Originally Posted by sbrown51
will this work on a 2002 mustang as well?
Yes it will, the cold solder joints are produced by crappy mass soldering operations and poor inspection before they went out the door. If you have any cluster with this problem, more than likely this is the cause.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2011 | 05:11 PM
  #261  
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Had the same problem, after removing mine to install led lights, I too wanted to know why, and i found the same problem but never knew this was such a problem with these cars/trucks. It works. Looks like the solder is separated from the pin and board as he stated a cold solder.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2011 | 08:08 PM
  #262  
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Originally Posted by sbrown51
will this work on a 2002 mustang as well?
Sorry but you'll have to buy a 1997 - 2006 Expedition or Navigator before we can answer your question.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2011 | 02:01 PM
  #263  
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Big thanks to Dakota_viking for this detailed thread, also want to thank ottawaguy for his illustration of a broken open cluster. Although our 97 Expy has the push button mechanical mileage display, thats ok of course, I read thru all 18 pages to find out how to change out these peanut bulbs that been going out one by one. A big thanks for "Everyones" help here. Great thread and reps given out..
 
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Old Jun 17, 2011 | 11:43 PM
  #264  
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Dakota_Vikings Fix

We must honor this amazing benefactor (Dakota_Viking). My odometer is now fixed and it seems odd to look down and see green numbers! Here is my story after following the Awesome Dakota_Vikings instructions.
The first thing I learned is when you take the board apart, be careful not to loose the rod and rubber bumper that toggles the trip and mileage (the button you press). The button is long enough and easy to find, but I spent some time trying to find the little grey and black rubber piece that fits on the the end of the rod, - without it the the button is useless. I also took 2 chances by (1.) Not having a magnify glass (my eyes are pretty good... I think) and (2.) Using a soldering iron.
I grew up with a soldering gun in my hand so I felt confident I could pull it off. I would STRONGLY recommend following Dakota_Vikings instructions and NOT USE a soldering gun and get a magnifying glass. I believe, even with all my experience, I was lucky. These are VERY small soldering joints.
Again, Hats off to the Dakota_Viking!
 
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Old Jun 18, 2011 | 01:52 PM
  #265  
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Originally Posted by MN_Jack76
The first thing I learned is when you take the board apart, be careful not to loose the rod and rubber bumper that toggles the trip and mileage (the button you press).
Did you remove the clear faceplate? To me it looks like that's the only way for that button to come out. If you did remove the clear faceplate, you weren't supposed to.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2011 | 06:06 PM
  #266  
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Faceplate

Originally Posted by alloro
Did you remove the clear faceplate? To me it looks like that's the only way for that button to come out. If you did remove the clear faceplate, you weren't supposed to.
I did remove the faceplate, I figured since I had the cluster out I would clean it with a soft cloth... although the button would have fallen out anyways (I have a long manual button) once the circuit board was removed from the back. Due to it's design, and just performing this fix last week, I can guarantee it can only be removed or installed from the back when the circuit board is removed. Faceplate would not matter.

Have a Great Day!
 
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Old Jul 9, 2011 | 10:04 PM
  #267  
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Will this work on 2006 Expy?

Wow came across this thread after I noticed my ODO becoming so dim during the daytime I thought I had the interior lights dimmed... Virtually unreadable in daytime unless you really blocked out the external light (still visible at night, but that's it)...

I've gone thru many of these 18+ pages but haven't seen any confirmed reports of this fix being appropriate to a later-model Expedition... Will this be viable on my 2006? I assume the fault is the same, just not sure if the cluster guidance would be similar or if I need to inspect every solder joint for cold solder...

Thanks again folks. Between FTE and 1 or 2 other sites, I have saved myself thousands in repairs over the years...
 
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 11:32 AM
  #268  
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The OP mentions a service manual or "CD" -- does anyone know where I can find one of these? I have 2000 Ford Expedition w/5.4L. Thanks!
 
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 04:06 PM
  #269  
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Originally Posted by saberworks
The OP mentions a service manual or "CD" -- does anyone know where I can find one of these? I have 2000 Ford Expedition w/5.4L. Thanks!
Do a search on eBay for them.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2011 | 09:38 PM
  #270  
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Does this work with newer (2006) models?

Just bumping this for one more attempt... Does anyone know the answer to my below quote/question (re: viability of this fix with newer Expys - i.e., 2006? My 2006 has very very dim ODO, would same cold solder fix apply?...)

Thanks again!

Originally Posted by sfc2001
Wow came across this thread after I noticed my ODO becoming so dim during the daytime I thought I had the interior lights dimmed... Virtually unreadable in daytime unless you really blocked out the external light (still visible at night, but that's it)...

I've gone thru many of these 18+ pages but haven't seen any confirmed reports of this fix being appropriate to a later-model Expedition... Will this be viable on my 2006? I assume the fault is the same, just not sure if the cluster guidance would be similar or if I need to inspect every solder joint for cold solder...

Thanks again folks. Between FTE and 1 or 2 other sites, I have saved myself thousands in repairs over the years...
 
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