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Years ago, I could find my way around and post to the proper forum. Now the site is either way harder to get around on or I am a lot more confused than I used to be. This is my apology for this being in the wrong area, if it is. I have a 2006 Explorer Sport Trak with the AM/FM 6CD with subwoofer and IPod connector in the center console. The display blacks out but will occasionally come on. Is there a quick fix or must I replace the whole unit?
Ford has proven that it builds a good truck, but the manufacturing process of circuit boards and soldering is not their strong suit.
Take the console down and have a look at all of the solder joints. If you find one that doesn't look 'quite right' touch it up with a little solder and see if your problems have gone away!
I'm driving Ford Ranger 3.2XLT 2013. I had my odometer blackout few days ago, it came back on and off many times, and it getting worse now. Even after I pulled out my key from the ignition, i still can turn on my radio. Sometime it came back normal for a few minutes then blackout again. What could be the problem, anyone experiencing this problem.?
I'm driving Ford Ranger 3.2XLT 2013. I had my odometer blackout few days ago, it came back on and off many times, and it getting worse now. Even after I pulled out my key from the ignition, i still can turn on my radio. Sometime it came back normal for a few minutes then blackout again. What could be the problem, anyone experiencing this problem.?
as for the odometer, I'd say to look over this thread about re-soldering the connections; as for the radio coming on after the key's removed, That sounds like a loose/bad ignition cylinder or something to me, but I'm no mechanic.
If you can turn the ignition cylinder without the key that is probably why the radio can come on with the key out, That could also potentially lead to a dead battery if not careful.
2013 is rather new, I'd be curious as to why the cylinder went bad, if it indeed did. is it a fleet vehicle (or ex-fleet) that is started and such ALOT throughout the day putting wear on the cylinder or a personal vehicle that is maybe 5-6 times a day?
as for the odometer, I'd say to look over this thread about re-soldering the connections; as for the radio coming on after the key's removed, That sounds like a loose/bad ignition cylinder or something to me, but I'm no mechanic.
If you can turn the ignition cylinder without the key that is probably why the radio can come on with the key out, That could also potentially lead to a dead battery if not careful.
2013 is rather new, I'd be curious as to why the cylinder went bad, if it indeed did. is it a fleet vehicle (or ex-fleet) that is started and such ALOT throughout the day putting wear on the cylinder or a personal vehicle that is maybe 5-6 times a day?
somehow I think the ignition is related to the odometer blackout. The alarm notification is flickering like I already lock the car. There's a time when i turn off my A/C, it came back on for a while. I tried to look for loose solder connection, but cant find any on the instrument cluster.
OK campers, I think I figured it out! (Sorry if this gets long...)
I took out my instrument cluster to install my Nu-Image Flame gauges. Since my odometer has been plagued with the famous blackout syndrome, I decided to dive in and see if it could be fixed without giving Ford $375 for a new cluster.
D
Do you know if this works with the gauges not working? Could use some help
What I found was a cold solder joint. With a couple of minutes using a solder pencil, problem solved! No need to fork over any money to Ford.
Here's how it goes: .
Using a service manual or CD, remove your instrument cluster
If you find a cold solder joint, simply touch it with a hot soldering pencil (NOT A GUN...It's TOO Hot!) and add just a touch of solder.
If all goes well, reverse the process to put it back together.
****IMPORTANT****
If you are not comfortable soldering or getting into electronic boards, you may want to consider finding someone in your area that is. (Maybe a stereo shop) I have been in electronics for several years and was willing to go for it rather than shell out the cash.
Good luck and remember to TAKE YOUR TIME!!!
If you have any questions, just shoot me an e-mail, I may be able to help out.
do you know if this work also with the gauges not working?
hello everyone....
i have dash blackout but mine seem like or i thought was the bulbs. i never got any blinking just one at a time. now only the speedometer is lite and rest is dark.
My ford escape 2013 instrumental cluster black out
I had an accident with my ford escape sometime last year...and after a week of the accident...d screen on my instrumental cluster went blurry and blank...u can only take note of it at night. Can the same method be applied thanks
I had an accident with my ford escape sometime last year...and after a week of the accident...d screen on my instrumental cluster went blurry and blank...u can only take note of it at night. Can the same method be applied thanks
I doubt it. You probably should have done a supplemental insurance claim since it happened right after the accident.
I will simply ask if this will work on a 1999 Ford F-150 Triton XLT 5.4L vehicle. My odometer went out in the midst of fixing an alternator (3x), battery (3x), and checking the battery cables (and scrubbing them clean) to have a low battery indicator and parasitic drain (allegedly).
Last edited by RookieTruckvet2020; May 17, 2019 at 07:29 PM.
Reason: operator error caused a misspelled word
I just purchased a 1999 F-150 XL 4x4 with a 4.2 engine and it had the same problem with the odometer going black after a while. I followed Dakota-Vikings directions and removed the dash assembly. It is a little hairy, but they were great instructions so it went well, even for a clutz like myself.
I didn't find any cold solder connections and looked really close. I did find a huge dead bug between the cluster housing and the printed circuit. I removed it and cleaned up as best as I could and so far the light is staying on. Thanks for the advice and instructions on this!!!
Good to know. Just purchased a 1999 F-150 Triton XLT V8 w/ 5.4 engine. Same issue (3 weeks and counting) and I just posted a story. (I don't mind the 'world's smallest violin' as everyone has a story and solution. lol)
viking,
I dove into the instrument cluster panel and I believe that there is a difference in the earlier model expeditions. I could not find a cold solder point anywhere. My panel went out all of a sudden and has not come back on. Also, the tone that reminds you that you left the lights on is not working either. I checked the fuses and the switch and both seem to be working fine. Could the instrument panel be responsible for the tone also?
I know it sounds weird but check your taillights mainly your brake lights. I found in my 01 7.3ltr that one of my brake lights was out. Ford apparently made it a safety thing that makes you aware to fix your brake light bulb. I replaced the bulb and everything on the dash started working again. I did the same as you, checked fuses and dash bulbs coming to find out it was just a brake light bulb.
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