Mine was just held in with clips and popped out with a flathead screw driver. In mine there is a square slot in the bottom center of the bezel for the screwdriver Once it comes out a little bit you disconnect the wires.

I've read in the comments and other threads of the forum that different year models are slightly different though. Mine is a 2000 F150 Lariat 4x4.

Hope this helps. Good Luck

 

thanks warrior... I finally mustered up the courage to just go ahead and get it out no matter what. Here is what I found out about my 1999 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer AWD 5.4L with auto leveling suspension...



This is how the panel switch looks put together off the dash.





Remove the **** by depressing the tab through the bottom end of the ****





I broke the top panel off and this is how it looks underneath. Mind you mine has auto lamps.





Here where my finger is there is a lever.





Moving the lever right disengages the clip holding it in place but be careful it is spring loaded!








The lady I bought my expedition from said it had 198k on the clock but after fixing it she was a little off... 😜

 

Nice pictures, very clear and focused.

 

Although, I'd be very surprised if I found an engine inside one of those *****..

 

Yeah I was also kind of wondering where the picture of the engine fit into the story.

 

I tried fixing this issue before I found this post and was using someone elses post. They said to use plenty of solder. I've never soldered before so I put plenty on alright. In fact I put enough on that now all of the prongs are soldered together. I put everything back in the truck and now the truck will turn over but it won't start. When I turn the key on, the odometer does not light up and the gauges do nothing. The lights for the door, seatbelt, and battery do light up. Do you think I messed the whole thing up by putting to much solder on? Do you think I can melt it back off? Is this the reason the truck won't fire? I noticed I now have a green and orange wire laying under the dash that I can't figure out where they used to be connected. They are tied into a large style 10 amp fuse.

 

Well, I melted all of the excess solder away and she started right up and now the odometer and gauges are working perfectly. However, I'm still not sure where the wires are pulled loose from.

 

If you short out the wires by soldering them all together, they will of course not work anymore. About the wires, unless someone with a 1. gen chimes in on where they go (a picture would be very helpful), your best bet is to study a wiring diagram from the factory service manual, if you don't know how to read a wiring diagram, perhaps you can ask a friend who knows.

 

Considering the large 10-amp fuse, it sounds like some kind of aftermarket device that a previous owner had installed and removed.

 

Makes me thankful I haven't had this problem yet. I continue to have the problem with the radio, probably a second junkyard swap soon.

 

my odometer goes in and out also but when i took it apart i could wiggle the left plug on top and it would go in and out but couldnt see the problem. any help out there?

 

You might need to just clean the connector contacts.

 

My 2004 has the blackout odometer issue. I look at that thing many times a day, g0tta squint at my age but I'm gonna try this, looks easy enough. I've got a pencil soldering thinga-ma-jig too. Thanks Very much!!

 

Bill,
It is real easy. You will not regret it.
Good luck.

 

Years ago, I could find my way around and post to the proper forum. Now the site is either way harder to get around on or I am a lot more confused than I used to be. This is my apology for this being in the wrong area, if it is. I have a 2006 Explorer Sport Trak with the AM/FM 6CD with subwoofer and IPod connector in the center console. The display blacks out but will occasionally come on. Is there a quick fix or must I replace the whole unit?