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Thank you, thank you for this info. This problem has been driving me nuts for a long time. My expedition does it and two of my friends f150's do it. Mine is the worst though it stays off for days at a time. I'll let you know how I make out! Thanks again very awesome instructions Dakota
The cluster is very easy to remove. You have to remove the headlight switch, the cover just above the steering column, and the panel that houses the headlight switch and also goes around the cluster. Once that is out, just remove 4 bolts, 2 connectors and the gear display (just squeeze tabs and remove). With that, the cluster is out of the dash and in your hands.
It took me a total of about 14 minutes and that included disconnecting the battery (do this before you do anything else)
Good luck.
Why disconnect the battery? Is there something hot in the instrument panel cluster? Good article, I just haven't gotten around to it.
Why disconnect the battery? Is there something hot in the instrument panel cluster? Good article, I just haven't gotten around to it.
Any time you are connecting/disconnecting electronics, it's just a good idea to disconnect the battery. There's always a possibility that a stray spark could take out an expensive processor somewhere.
Good luck, it's an easy fix if you take your time.
you guys ROCK! i haven't gotten into the dashboard before on this vehicle but all the tricks (especially the easy way to remove the headlight switch) really worked! and sure enough, that same pin on mine was lacking proper solder.....again, i'm a novice, and the entire procedure took me only about an hour.....not bad considering i was going extra slowly and carefully....thanks again!
I may have lost a part to reset the trip does anybody know is a aoen part and a spring or what
I don't know if you ever figured this out or not, but I fixed my panel today and a grey plastic plunger fell out of the assembly. It sticks into the back of the black reset switch. When you push the switch, the grey plunger pushes against the circuit board and a little black contact makes a connection on the circuit board to reset the trip milage. Hope this helps if you haven't already figured it out. Let me know if you need any more info.
Also, thanks Dakota_Viking for the how-to instructions on fixing the odometer problem.
-Nick
Last edited by electronicsns; Nov 17, 2006 at 03:49 PM.
DV and others: Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. I performed this fix in about 30 minutes total time and it was exactly as DV had described. Didn't cost a thing and the darn thing had been acting up for over a year. This is the fourth fix I've come across from the forum and I think I've saved about $1K at least.
Thanks again!
Scott
'99 Expy 5.4 110K miles
p.s. And yes, I did just sign up for "Supporter" status. $20 is a small price to pay for the knowledge I've gained and sticking it to the dealerships....priceless!!
Last edited by TX76F250; Nov 27, 2006 at 11:10 PM.
One thing I might add to ease removal and replacement is to remove bezel from around radio and HVAC controls and remove screw that holds down top of dash. There is another similar screw above headlight switch that can be removed. This allows top of dash to be gently pried up and it makes it very easy to remove and replace instrument cluster.
I just finished repairing mine. It's more than 30 minutes, but it isn't bad. I had a hell of a time with the soldering. I think my tip was a bit large, go to Radio Shack or wherever and buy the thinnest soldering tip you can find. A head mounted magnifying glass would help too. I had to put some solder on the same pin as pjh, and also the one next to it. I broke Dakota_Viking's rule and didn't disconnect the battery. I probably should have. Anyway, I'd say be very careful with the plastic parts, because you can chip the paint off. All in all it was successful, thanks pjh.
Last edited by 2000Expy; Dec 17, 2006 at 12:32 PM.
Reason: correction
Thanks all for your advice on this. The real problem I had with was getting the lamp switch out. What a bear! I broke the front cover off and epoxy glued it back on. All is well. My cluster had the same bad solder joint as DV's.
I'm so glad I found this thread again! I'm printing out the instructions for my husband to try.
On another note, RE: disconnecting the battery. Our store-bought manual indicates that you need to disconnect the negative cable, in order to prevent accidental discharge of the airbag. You don't want to save $450 on the odometer fix, and then have to blow that or more on reseting the airbag!
the trick to getting the headlamp switch out ,is to turn the headlamp switch on to headlights -pull the **** out and pull off ,then put the **** back on 180* out and turn to the off position and pull and the switch comes out
Frank
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