I suspect this repair would still apply. In reality you might not get an answer if no one with an 06 has tried the repair. If it were me I'd just take the cluster out and do the repair. I'll only take about an hour and you'll have your answer.

I do recommend using a grinding wheel or file to sharpen your soldering iron to a fine point. This helps prevent solder from bridging onto adjacent solder points.

 

I pulled my cluster from my 2006 Expedition, got it out in less than 20 minutes. However, the cluster seems to have changed from the earlier models reported in this thread. I've tried to attach a few pics to illustrate... On the older units, the 'white backing' is removable to access the circuit board. On this 2006 cluster, it *appears* anyway that the white 'backing' is actually more of a 'housing' that 'contains' the circuit board and gauges/etc. I don't see any way to get at the circuit board to check for cold solder joints without (choke) taking out the gauges and hardware somehow? What am I missing? I cannot see any method of access from the back... There are no screws other than the two visible at the top (which only serve to fasten the housing to the lens - once those are removed, the lens pops right off).

Any input would be greatly appreciated... If I can get this done, I'll post associated pix and steps.

See pix below of my cluster...

Thanks again,
Scott

 

Tough to say what would make it come apart without having a cluster in my hands.

 

I have had the same problem with my 1999 F250 for about a year now... THANKS for the pictures.. I need them!

 

 

It appears to me, anyway, that the design of the cluster in the newer models is such that the internal components are only accessible from the *front* of the cluster - not the back. On the older clusters, there were torx screws that could be removed, permitting removal of the white backing plastic and exposing the circuitry. On the newer cluster (as in the case of my 2006 Expy), there are no torx screws or accessible fasteners of any kind visible on the back of the cluster. The white 'backing' appears to instead be a 'housing', onto which the components are fastened from the *inside* (requiring removal of the gauges themselves - yuck - to access the internals).

I looked and looked at this thing hoping to find a secret 'quick release' or other bizarre method of opening, but could not find anything. From everything I can see, the only way to get at the circuit board on these newer clusters is to somehow attempt removal from the front of the cluster... Which I'm not certain I would attempt without some further guidance from those that have done so before... There must be a way to do it without damaging, but I don't necessarily want to experiment on my cluster...

I'll continue to search for info on how to tackle this newer cluster and advise if I find anything, since I'm experiencing these same symptoms (extremely dim/dying ODO display). If anyone can offer any guidance, I would be grateful...

Thanks
Scott

 

SCF2001,

After looking at your pictures, I would suggest that you see if the bezel around the gauges comes off. If so, the rest of the cluster may be modular where you can take either the speedo, tach and odo out separately.

If they look like they are separate, they would be pushed in on metal contact pegs. This would allow them to be slid out one at a time. Ford used this style in a few different clusters.

I can't guarantee that this is the way it's constructed, but it's worth a shot.

Good Luck,

Tim

 

Looks to me like there are 2 screws at the top of the cluster, and three slid-in tabs that lock in place. I would start by removing those 2 screws, that may be the only thing holding it together. Undo the screws, push the tabs down to unlock, and it may just open up clamshell style. Didn't see any noticeable screws on the bottom....doesn't make any sense that the gauges would have to come off from the front to access the circuit board.

 

Dakota_viking: Interesting idea. I'll gently poke around and see if those bezels come off somehow. Twist, you think, or snap? Hmmmm...

Rattosh51: Per my earlier post, those two screws fasten the lens to the cluster. If you note in that photo, the lens is still attached. Those push tabs (all of them you see in the pics) are all to secure the lens to the cluster. No other external fasteners visible besides those... And yes I agree with you - hard to imagine they'd make it this way.

 

My Mustang used a similar design where the different sections of the gauges just pulled out of the cluster housing. They had different sections of the gauge surround and this doesn't look that way, so remove the bezel and carefully see if the gauge surround lifts off to expose the unit or units behind it.

 

some website wanted $30 for a manual too tell you how too fix it, I suck at soldering so I'll find someone too solder it for me.

 

Got a link?

 

Dakota_Viking is without questions THE MAN....and a nice guy to spend time posting the instructions with pictures. I am not at all mechanically-inclined but using the Ford manual with Dakota_Viking's instructions, I was able to complete the job in < (1) hour. Thank you sir!!!!

 

Thanks DV, this post is STILL keeping people from losing their minds by going to the dealer to fix something that should have been taken care of at the factory! I have an 01 F150 SC that has been plagued with this issue for years. I actually had 5 of the pins with cold solder-joints that I could see without magnification! There were noticble gaps around the far ledt and far right pins, the two just inside of those and the third in from the right!
I touched them all up with a 35watt pencil iron, adding solder to only 3 of them, re-installed and after a slight scare with the truck not starting up the first time (I hit the starter before I let the cluster and PCM do their thing).........VOILA! Nice green odometer again, that stays on! No more pounding my dash I have only put 10 miles on it since corrected, but this used to be plenty of time to at least flicker once.
-evidently robots still cannot "see" and make a desiscion on their own......whew!! Too bad FMC didn't correct the issue, all it takes is a few more seconds on those particular solder connections as this is the largest solder point on the board.

While I was in there, I also corrected my gear selector indicator reading off by almost a whole position. The plastic bracket broke, and the tywrap trick is working.

Had a couple of heater control cluster lights to replace at the same time so I had my entire dash tore out nearly, but still only spent 2 hours total time, (including running to the parts store for the lamps), which was well worht the several hundred a new cluster would cost to have replaced by the dealer.

Also, there are ALOT of screws to remove, be patient. (I had the lower panel removed also, to access the gear selector indicator adjustment wheel easier)

 

Nice first post lcummings. Reps to ya.

And... welcome to the forum!