Odometer Blackout Problem Fixed!!!
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 898
Likes: 0
Well... I tried it.
Took more then 15 min to get it apart ...the first time.
Second time went faster even though I put more parts back.
Third time I went & found some more screws to replace the ones I have ridding around inside my dash now.
I'm getting good at putting this back togeather. Hope it keeps working after all that.
Took more then 15 min to get it apart ...the first time.
Second time went faster even though I put more parts back.
Third time I went & found some more screws to replace the ones I have ridding around inside my dash now.
I'm getting good at putting this back togeather. Hope it keeps working after all that.
New User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
really late to the party
Ok, I'm hoping that this thread is still being checked. I followed the instructions above and my instrument cluster looks completely different. My odometer is completely blacked out and only works in the winter months. Being in text that means it only works 2 months out of the year. I am trying to trade my car in however with the blacked out odometer they really want to screw me on the trade in.
It's a 2002 Ford Explorer XLT... can anyone help?
thanks
It's a 2002 Ford Explorer XLT... can anyone help?
thanks
New User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Same problem on my 2002 Explorer. It looks like there might be a bad solder joint on one of the resistors just about the odometer display ribbon connection on the main odometer board.
Just finished soldering the 4 resistors above the ribbon pin and made a quick check. It works perfect again. Hope this helps any of those with a newer instrument cluster.
Just finished soldering the 4 resistors above the ribbon pin and made a quick check. It works perfect again. Hope this helps any of those with a newer instrument cluster.
Last edited by turckproxman; Aug 26, 2007 at 09:24 PM. Reason: Finished fix.
New User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Sweet!! I have this problem and am going for it. Thanks for the pictures- very helpful. ( F-150 4.6l Triton V-8 )
Originally Posted by dakota_viking
OK campers, I think I figured it out! (Sorry if this gets long...)
I took out my instrument cluster to install my Nu-Image Flame gauges. Since my odometer has been plagued with the famous blackout syndrome, I decided to dive in and see if it could be fixed without giving Ford $375 for a new cluster.
What I found was a cold solder joint. With a couple of minutes using a solder pencil, problem solved! No need to fork over any money to Ford.
Here's how it goes: .
Using a service manual or CD, remove your instrument cluster
If you find a cold solder joint, simply touch it with a hot soldering pencil (NOT A GUN...It's TOO Hot!) and add just a touch of solder.
If all goes well, reverse the process to put it back together.
****IMPORTANT****
If you are not comfortable soldering or getting into electronic boards, you may want to consider finding someone in your area that is. (Maybe a stereo shop) I have been in electronics for several years and was willing to go for it rather than shell out the cash.
Good luck and remember to TAKE YOUR TIME!!!
If you have any questions, just shoot me an e-mail, I may be able to help out.
I took out my instrument cluster to install my Nu-Image Flame gauges. Since my odometer has been plagued with the famous blackout syndrome, I decided to dive in and see if it could be fixed without giving Ford $375 for a new cluster.
What I found was a cold solder joint. With a couple of minutes using a solder pencil, problem solved! No need to fork over any money to Ford.
Here's how it goes: .
Using a service manual or CD, remove your instrument cluster
If you find a cold solder joint, simply touch it with a hot soldering pencil (NOT A GUN...It's TOO Hot!) and add just a touch of solder.
If all goes well, reverse the process to put it back together.
****IMPORTANT****
If you are not comfortable soldering or getting into electronic boards, you may want to consider finding someone in your area that is. (Maybe a stereo shop) I have been in electronics for several years and was willing to go for it rather than shell out the cash.
Good luck and remember to TAKE YOUR TIME!!!
If you have any questions, just shoot me an e-mail, I may be able to help out.
Last edited by artmoss3; Sep 13, 2007 at 10:40 AM.
New User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Three cheers for Viking!!! I bought my '99 F-150 Supercab a few thousand miles ago, and one of the few problems the seller identified to me was that "the odometer works when it wants to". I read this thread, mustered up the testicular fortitude to attempt it, and within an hour and with no cursing what-so-ever (other than when I dropped the socket into the dash when replacing the bezzel screw), it's all fixed! My odometer holds it's illumination with no flickering at all...even on the bumpiest of roads! It was the exact same pin that Viking shows in the post.
Nearly 4 years after the fact, Viking is still helping ppl fix thier odometer problem. Virtual-high-five to Viking!
Nearly 4 years after the fact, Viking is still helping ppl fix thier odometer problem. Virtual-high-five to Viking!
Last edited by Stevegud1; Sep 15, 2007 at 01:17 PM.
New User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: North Corolina
“Way to go Viking”, this fix was “dead bang on”; the exact same pin was jack up on my 2000 Expedition. It took 30 minutes to complete the repairs and now the odometer works like a champ. Thanks
Last edited by Bulldozer; Sep 15, 2007 at 05:00 PM.
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New User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 14
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Originally Posted by ericnj75
hey viking i did what you showed us this weekend. let me tell u something u r the man.I did everything u said and problem is fixed now i can pass inspection thats why i failed so thank you again.
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
Damn am I glad I joined this website!! So far it has been 3 for 3 with issues that I had and has saved me ALOT of money.
I had the same issue with the odometer going blank and performed the fix as described above and SUCCESS!!!.
Only issue I encountered was that the dashboad parts as so brittle that they broke in several spots where the screws go in so now i cannot get the pieces tightened back down. Anyone know where to get replacements besides a junkyard?
Regards,
David
'99 Expy Eddie Bauer 5.4L
Custom 20" wheels & tires, custom exhaust, and K&N Filter
I had the same issue with the odometer going blank and performed the fix as described above and SUCCESS!!!.
Only issue I encountered was that the dashboad parts as so brittle that they broke in several spots where the screws go in so now i cannot get the pieces tightened back down. Anyone know where to get replacements besides a junkyard?
Regards,
David
'99 Expy Eddie Bauer 5.4L
Custom 20" wheels & tires, custom exhaust, and K&N Filter
New User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
The original post was Sep 2003, It is now Sep 2007! 4 years have gone by and people are still learning from this post. I stumbled on this post and just fixed my truck odometer. I have never touched a soldering gun, can barely pronounce it and have never had my dash apart and did it in less than two hours. My dash is very thankful that I never have to bash it again.
Trailering
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 23
Likes: 9
Pics and instructions
I put together some pictures and instructions on removing the dash and cluster. I wish I had something like this when I first attempted to remove the dash about 1 year ago, unsucessfully.
These were from my 99 Expedition built in 12/1998.
You will need 9/32 or 7mm sockets. If you have one that is magnetized, that would help not loose any of the screws.
15-Torqx bit or a tiny socket may even work.
Here is the link
The odometer is now working perfect!!!! This site rules!
These were from my 99 Expedition built in 12/1998.
You will need 9/32 or 7mm sockets. If you have one that is magnetized, that would help not loose any of the screws.
15-Torqx bit or a tiny socket may even work.
Here is the link
The odometer is now working perfect!!!! This site rules!
