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DH and I set aside the afternoon to work on it. Since we don't really do much in the way of auto repair, we worked very slowly and carefully, to make sure we didn't break off any fragile plastic parts. Took us 3 hours from start to cleanup.
Thanks!! It works like a charm. Now our neighbor wants us to help with his F150 that has the same problem.
Is there any chance of finding a diagram for removing the dash cluster? Or possibly step by step written instructions. I'm not a mechanic, but I can follow directions fairly well (please don't tell me where to go )
OK, forget what I said... I should have read the OTHER 8 PAGES before I posted my reply... So I guess it is OK to tell me where to go now..........
Last edited by wolvesfan; Mar 11, 2007 at 12:35 PM.
Reason: mis read original posting
This post is AWSOME!!! I just purchased a 2000 F-150 Ext. Cab and the blackout problem with the odometer was one of the first things I noticed on the test drive. I asked the sales manager if it could be fixed and he said they didnt want to tackle it and a new cluster would be very costly. This post saved me at least $400.00 and it only took about 2 hours. Now Im seeing the Green Light Bright and Clear and I am so Thankful. Anyone with any kind of mechanical knowledge could do this, just take your time and follow the instructions. Thanks a Ton Dakota.
I fixed mine a couple months ago. The only difficulity was the getting the light switch out. A guy in a body shop figured it out, after that it was a snap.
Are these gages analog or digital? I am having my analog gages fail to start working on startup (no gages, no indicator lights, nothing) . After running for a while it started working. I suspect the same sort of thing is going on with my 1999 F250 5.4L 4x4. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
THANK YOU - THANK YOU - THANK YOU!!!
My dash has bee slowly fading over the last nine months or so and now I'm only able to see half the odometer! Reading all of the success stories, I will be giving it a shot next weekend.
I just posted my first thread and upon looking for my problem(rear axle seal and bearing) I came across this one. Dakota_viking you are the man!!!! While waiting for my replys on my problem I just got finished fixing my black speedo thanks to your detailed insight and pics, one of my problems are fixed. Thanks again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Until I get someone to do this for me, I just keep tapping mine and it pops back on. But I do want to say a big big thank-you for this thread!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I saw someone has a boom thud, I never heard it on mine behind the dash.
I need to get to this one, but my biggest annoyance right now is that my stereo display has been blacked out for about a year. I used to be able to smack it and get it to come back on, but that hasn't worked for some time now. Are there any posts on this?
The Hayes manual says you got to position the headlight swich to the on position, then pry the **** off. THEN, reinstall the **** in a 180 degree fashion, then turn the **** counterclockwise to the off position, then rotate the **** clockwise as far as possible and hold it, and this enables the locking tab on the back of the switch to retract, then pull out the switch. Mine has been super glued back so I thought this bit of information might help. If someone wants to notorize this please do.
Dakota_Viking - Excellent presentation and comparison of cold solder joints and good solder joints!! I also worked electronics for many years, bad/cold/cracked solder joints were always a major cause of consumer electronics failures of all types. You have excellent illustrative instructional qualities!! Your step-by-step was laid out very well! Your hard work is greatly appreciated!
Dakota_Viking - Excellent presentation and comparison of cold solder joints and good solder joints!! I also worked electronics for many years, bad/cold/cracked solder joints were always a major cause of consumer electronics failures of all types. You have excellent illustrative instructional qualities!! Your step-by-step was laid out very well! Your hard work is greatly appreciated!
Thanks Gary! I just got tired of seeing people have problems and only having the dealership to turn to.
Glad to hear that people are still using this fix!
I finally fixed the odometer, aside from the headlight switch assembly it was an easy fix. I didn’t realize that there were nine pages of threads or I could have saved myself some aggravation on how to remove the headlight switch assembly. It took me awhile and some glue to figure out that it had a spring loaded latch that kept it in place. Other than that, I can finally see the light!
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