Do you know if the 04 's would be the same? I just purchased one and the light is out dealer wants 400 to fix it.

 

I'm not sure how much of an issue it was on the 04's, but I'd sure look into it before spending $400 at the stealer.

 

I never said it did, but that's good to know.

 

Love this DIY thread. Just did mine a few hours ago and damn am I happy seeing my odometer stay on longer than five minute!

Here's me removing my plastic:


I went ahead and changed out the two bulbs that illuminates my heating/cooling dials:


I soldiered both top and bottom soldier joints. Top one for sure needed it and the bottom one probably needed a touch just in case:


Everything put back in place the way it was before:


And the truck:

 

Sign me up, I just did it a few days ago. Awesome! Things like that bother me in a big way and I was also a victim of the fan - hot/ cold lights.
For anyone that cares (I'm sure it posted but my navigation skills on this computer aren't the best) the bulbs pull out of the base and are a 161.
I also did my 4x4 switch light, non-serviceable from Ford for 70 bones (cdn). Whatever, couldn't believe it and that bulb is a 8640. I also believe that Honda's 79629-S3V-A01 has the same bulb but you may end up using your existing base. It's around 10 bucks...thanks Ford.

 

Fixed my 2000 Expedition 2WD EDB and it has been fine for 2 months after 5 years of going off and on.

It did not have the tricky reverse **** to remove the light switch as some 2000's might have. It has a normal clip slot at the bottom to start the pulling process and 2 more at the 2 and 10 o'clock position.

Thanks for all the fantastic information on this thread!!

 

Wow! It's hard to believe I put this thread out there 5 years ago and it's still helping people today!

I'm glad I have been able to help, and I'm glad there is a site like ford-trucks that can offer fellow Ford owners a place to go for help.

Keep up the good work everybody!!!

Tim

 

Done!! Accomplished odometer repair today on my 2001 F150 SuperCrew 2WD Lariat w/82K miles (I am original owner and want to keep it another few years). Odometer blanking problem was getting progressively worse last 3 years and was very annoying. I almost could not complete the mandatory California smog check last month needed for this years registration as the odometer blanked when the tech started the truck...fortunately it came back after I rapped dash several times. The tech was just about to tell me that I could not get the mandatory smog without the mileage.

Ok, so I used posts #1, #149, #194/195 to repair my 2001 pickup. The 2001 has the integral headlamp switch assembly with three metal clip retainers (its the entire black unit as shown per post #194/195). Pry carefully from bottom and then left and upper sides to get entire unit out about a half inch or so and then pull firmly on as much of the switch body assembly as you can grasp until unit pops out. For this type switch assembly you remove the whole switch assembly (its the black unit) without removing the rotary headlight dial as is necessary for the prior year models. Use care, stay calm, and avoid gouging the surrounding fascia panel...I left no gouges or marks what so ever.

Everything else easily disassembled and reassembled just as shown in post #149 photos.

I had the typical faulty solder joint as described in post #1 (Used a Jeweler Loupe to see it with the board illuminated in direct sunlight), and I touched up suspect solder joints on another four of the pins on the same connector since I had the board out.

Total time from start to finish was about 40 minutes!

I strongly recommend you take the time to prep by scanning the posts on this thread (it took me about 30 minutes to scan the posts and determine which headlight switch assembly I was likely to have and then print all the photos from post #149 link) and you are ready to go. Looks like the only significant variable to deal with is the variation in retention of the various headlight switch units and the appropriate removal instructions to use for each configuration...scanning the thread in advance will prep you to avoid the pitfalls and damage experienced by the early 'trail blazers' on this thread.

I send out a big 'THANK YOU' to all the contributors on this thread!!!!
drew

 

I have the same headlamp assembly as you describe. Question, the indicators on my headlamp do not illuminate at night except for the foglights. Are their bulbs in the assembly to replace or is it soldered joints? Anyone else have a problem as this and if so how was it fixed. tks

 

awesome I just did mine took about twenty minutes, I even took the glass off and cleaned the inside( it was dusty)

 

did the fix on a 2000 expy e/b;3-days with out any probs yet...thank you very much...although the h/l switch on mine does just pull out with spring clips,no fancy method required...maybe i didnt read far enough

 

I reviewed this article with great interest. Thank you for this valued point of view. I discovered in my speaking with other people that the fix for me was a 15 amp fuse for the interior dome lamp. all is well! all works! Hope this helps someone. thanks again
dblm95f250

 

I just fixed my 2002 F150. The same pin had a cold solder joint.

I had a heck of a time getting my "pry out" light switch out. I did not realize it has three spring clips that hold it into the dash. Only one has a slot to release it, so I had to do some prying and dinged up the plastic under the switch. I believe putting some duct tape on area under the switch and prying with something flat ( not a screwdriver) would have gotten it out without the dings.

Just wish I had read this many years ago when the odometer first starting going on and off.

Thanks again.

 

I fixed my 2001 Navigator today same bad joint as dakota but add a little to all for added security!!!!! Thanks So Much!!!!

 

Ive been snooping around here for quite some time and decided to take my dash apart and see if I had the same problem. Took me all of 30 minutes to take everything apart since ive never owned a domestic vehicle before. I got my magnifier and sure enough its the same joint eveyone else has had a problem with. I added soilder to that joint as well as all of the others to ensure that none had a cold soilder joint. On another note since I have my dash apart I may as well fix some of the spots that are chipping away which show black underneath?? I dont know what thats all about but i got the correct grey plastic paint coming from ford in CA straight to my doorstep. Thanks for all of the info on the odometer problem you save my wallet and my 10 mo old babys toy monkey habbit she loves so much Good Day all.