i have recently bought a 99 f150 and it had this issue with the od from day 1 I am glad to have found this post saved me alot of time and money fixed and it seems to be working great.
Thanks

 

Thanks dakota_viking. I finally got around to doing mine today. The instructions were perfect and it was easier then I expected.

 

This post was very helpful. My odometer started acting funny about 5 yeas ago. It would blink off and I'd pound on the front of the intrument panel to get it to come back on. Eventually (after many bruised knuckles) it just stoped working all togther. I had no idea how inconvient not having an odometer would be but it sucked. No idea when to change oil, couldn't follow directions when given distances to drive, etc.

I'm not a car guy but I pulled followed these instructions and pulled my inst. cluster, soldered the spot in the picture, and put it all back together (in the dark) last night. It took about 3 hours (including a trip to the autoparts store to buy a solder pencil.

Works great now!

 

My odometer and radio displays are both taking turns blinking out. Looks like I'll be trying this repair too.

 

Nice write up!

 

Just took my cluster off today and repaired it! Thanks to this post, it worked like a charm!!! Thanks !

 

I am a tech at a independent automotive repair shop, and have learned pretty much every manufacturer makes this mistake, and the wants to charge a premium to undo their poor workmanship. I now include this website along with Mitchel and Identifix for every job I need to research. Have made a lot of happy customers thanks entirely to great posts like Dakota's

 

I just took care of this problem in a 2002 f-150 I bought last week. That same joint was cold on mine, plus the one all the way to the left was beginning to go cold so I did both of them. I've never soldered before but it's not too bad. The only soldering thing I could find was a 25 watt soldering iron. It wasn't a gun so I figure the technical name for pencil is one you have to hold like a pencil so if that's the case I got the right one.

 

Dear 2005 F150 Owners with Odometer problems,

Quoted by Ford $800.00 to fix a common problem with a blinking or blank odometer which is a common problem and should be a recall, but I found this site and it helped me to fix the problem myself. My notes below are only meant to compliment the pics and instruction in this thread to solve the problem for 2005 F150 owners.

I felt some obligation to post a couple notes on this site since it helped me to fix my "cold solder joints" on my 2005 F150 instrument cluster. The pictures in this thread are just a example of a different but similar cluster. Here are a couple notes for 2005 F150 owners that have an odometer blinking or blank with the light on in the background (refer to pics on this thread to get the cluster out). These instructions compliment the pics for the 2005 F150 repair. It just takes a little common sense and you do not have to be an expert at anything.

1. You need the following tools:

9/32 socket (use it on drill with small extension to get the cluster out).
Small Flathead Screwdriver to release lever on 2 cluster wire harnesses.
T15H screw driver (in most assorted power bit sets, star with 6 points).
Magnifying Glass to see the solder joints (get a good one).
The typical 20 dollar solder tool in Home Depot or Fry's, use needle tip.
Good lighting for easy soldering.


2. Taking the panels and cluster out are really easy, and the example pictures are exact. Use a 9/32 socket to get all the screws out.

3. There are 2 wire harnesses on top of the cluster that have to be removed. Do this before removing the 4 screws that attach the cluster to the dash. I did not disconnect the battery first, but this is a good idea. It took me 20 minutes trying to figure out how to disconnect the 2 wiring harnesses to the cluster. This is where you will need the flathead screw driver. You will notice a gray clip on each harness, and they are really hinges, BUT YOU HAVE TO PUSH DOWN ON THE SMALL NOTCHES LOCKING THE HARNESS AT THE SAME TIME YOU FLIP OR TURN THE GREY TIP OVER. I understand that this instruction may be difficult, and find somebody to help if necessary. No force is needed.

4. Now remove the 4 screws holding the cluster in place with your 9/32 socket. Be gentle here because the gear shift indicator is still connected by a small cable. Don't do what I did by looking inside of it and think that you have to remove another harness (a harness inside of a big harness). I broke a piece of plastic trying to disconnect a harness connection until I figured out that the entire shift indicator is EASILY REMOVED BY 2 LARGE CLIPS THAT YOU SQUEEZE TO REMOVE THE ENTIRE UNIT. You should now have the cluster in your hands and ready for the next step in your work area for inspection and soldering.

5. You should now be sitting in your workbench area, or dining room table in my case with the cluster looking at you. Remove the plastic cover in the back of the cluster with your T15H screw driver, I think there were 8 screws holding on the flimsy plastic cover. THIS IS ALL YOU HAVE TO DO ON THE 2005 F150. YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE CIRCUIT BOARD LIKE OLDER MODELS. YOU ARE NOW READY TO INSPECT THE BACK OF THE BOARD FOR "COLD SOLDER JOINTS." I spent another 20 minutes trying to figure out how to remove the circuit board on the 2005 model, and I eventually figured out that all my problems were right in front of me after removing the plastic cover.

6. This is the most difficult part and it takes a good eye, but it does not require an expert here if you have a good eye and know the basics of a solder iron with a fine tip. Use the magnify glass with good light to find cold solder joints in the area of the odometer. You really have to inspect all the solder joints. I found one bad joint and touched the area with my solder iron, and I did apply a tiny amount of solder to reinforce it. I thought my problem was solved, installed it back in my truck, and it was still not fixed. I had to remove my cluster again and take it back for further inspection on all joints. I found 2 more problems on the board in other areas, and I was discouraged, BUT THE SECOND REVIEW SOLVED MY PROBLEM! DON'T GIVE UP IF IT DOES WORK THE FIRST TIME. YOU NEED A GOOD EYE AND A GENTLE TOUCH WITH THE SOLDER IRON.

7. I really was amazed how easy everything went back together. The parking indicator unit indicator unit slides in easily, and the harnesses are easy to install. Just reverse what you did to remove it. I made the mistake of not disconnecting my battery, but it did not result in any problem. I plugged the left harness in first, then the right one, and the cluster will make a ticking noise for 5 seconds. Again, it is a good idea to disconnect your battery first, and I was probably lucky not to short anything.

I am really happy, and it worked. I WAS QUOTED BY FORD TO FIX THIS COMMON PROBLEM FOR $800.00, BUT YOU CAN DO IT YOURSELF FOR NOTHING IF YOU HAVE THE TOOLS I MENTION THAT WILL COST YOU AROUND $30 DOLLARS. IF YOU DON'T TRUST YOURSELF WITH A SOLDER IRON, THEN ASK YOUR FRIENDS. YOU CAN DO THIS IF YOU HAVE USED A SOLDER IRON A COUPLE TIMES AND UNDERSTAND ENTRY LEVEL BASICS.

Just trying to help other 2005 F150 owners having the same problem, and let me know if you have any questions. Sorry to repeat so many words, but I want to make sure easy search words are available on search engines for 2005 FORD F150 BLINKING BLANK ODOMETER PROBLEM WITH LIGHT IN BACKGROUND are known to everybody.

I also want to mention that this repair has me thinking that I can repair all my electronics as a hobby because most failures are the result of cold solder joints, and it has opened up doors for me. This could also be a very rewarding experience for any electronic repair that you may have, and it was the greatest learning experience in electronic circuit boards for me.

Good Luck, and take care.

Clay

 

Just did this to my wife's 00 Expedition. Great write up, thanks for this!!!

 

A big thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. My son's Y2k F-150 had been suffering with an intermittent odometer display sinece he bought it, and after finding this thread today, we just did the repair this evening and now the bright green digits are glowing stready for the first time in months!

thanks guys!!!

Robert in Alpharetta Georgia

 

Great information Dakota!!! I know what I'll be doing tonight!!

 

Great!!!

I have never been in any hurry to fix this problem on my 99 Navigator. I found your post and your solution worked perfectly. I had to solder both connections on RHS and also the one on the left.

Sending a thank you.

 

Holly C**P!! that was easy!! saved me $425!!! thanks again for all the information. Oh, and my truck is a 2001 f150 4.6 if anyone has any questions about how I got the dash off. There was a lot of screws to take out, but was very easy. The solder job wasn't pretty, but it did the job!!!!!

Just remember after you put your battery cable back on, to let your truck idle until normal temp, then take it for a drive for about 5mil or so, then turn off the motor and start it again a few times. It will help to recalibrate the on-board computer chip and build new idle tables.

Thanks again!!!!!!

 

My 1999 F250 had the same blackout problem. Following your directions and using your pictures I was able to fix mine also! The hardest part was getting the instrument cluster out! AGAIN THANK YOU!!