Odometer Blackout Problem Fixed!!!
#301
#302
Does the 2003 Expedition have this problem too??? My odometer doesn't totally dim out, but like different parts of the display do, and normally if I hit the top of the dashboard it will return to normal??
I had my dash apart not that long ago, and was going to take the instrument cluster out to see if there was maybe a loose cable back there or something, but couldn't get the cluster out. I removed the screws but it barely moved (definitely not enough for me to get behind it and undo the cables).
I had my dash apart not that long ago, and was going to take the instrument cluster out to see if there was maybe a loose cable back there or something, but couldn't get the cluster out. I removed the screws but it barely moved (definitely not enough for me to get behind it and undo the cables).
#303
Yes the 03 also has the problem. Are you sure you took out the correct 4 screws? If you did, maybe the harness is caught on something behind the dash. You might have to look up from underneath as you're trying to remove it to see if it's hanging up anywhere.
#304
Thanks!
#305
I went through the whole string and didn't realize there were so many different headlight switch styles of removal. So...can anyone please guide me as to where the info would be to remove my switch (here or anywhere else) It's a '99 F150 supercab with production date 11-98. It doesn't seem to have a notch on the base of the switch **** or on the headlight switch bezel itself. Thanks very much if anyone can help or I'll have to go through all 21 pages again.
#306
Loved this thread!! After 8 years of dealing with blackouts, finally fixed it.
OK campers, I think I figured it out! (Sorry if this gets long...)
I took out my instrument cluster to install my Nu-Image Flame gauges. Since my odometer has been plagued with the famous blackout syndrome, I decided to dive in and see if it could be fixed without giving Ford $375 for a new cluster.
What I found was a cold solder joint. With a couple of minutes using a solder pencil, problem solved! No need to fork over any money to Ford.
Here's how it goes: .
Using a service manual or CD, remove your instrument cluster
If you find a cold solder joint, simply touch it with a hot soldering pencil (NOT A GUN...It's TOO Hot!) and add just a touch of solder.
If all goes well, reverse the process to put it back together.
****IMPORTANT****
If you are not comfortable soldering or getting into electronic boards, you may want to consider finding someone in your area that is. (Maybe a stereo shop) I have been in electronics for several years and was willing to go for it rather than shell out the cash.
Good luck and remember to TAKE YOUR TIME!!!
If you have any questions, just shoot me an e-mail, I may be able to help out.
I took out my instrument cluster to install my Nu-Image Flame gauges. Since my odometer has been plagued with the famous blackout syndrome, I decided to dive in and see if it could be fixed without giving Ford $375 for a new cluster.
What I found was a cold solder joint. With a couple of minutes using a solder pencil, problem solved! No need to fork over any money to Ford.
Here's how it goes: .
Using a service manual or CD, remove your instrument cluster
If you find a cold solder joint, simply touch it with a hot soldering pencil (NOT A GUN...It's TOO Hot!) and add just a touch of solder.
If all goes well, reverse the process to put it back together.
****IMPORTANT****
If you are not comfortable soldering or getting into electronic boards, you may want to consider finding someone in your area that is. (Maybe a stereo shop) I have been in electronics for several years and was willing to go for it rather than shell out the cash.
Good luck and remember to TAKE YOUR TIME!!!
If you have any questions, just shoot me an e-mail, I may be able to help out.
Thank you so much for the descriptive instructions. You saved me $400!! I appreciate your help so much!!
#307
You guys rock! It took me more than the previously stated 14 minutes but I wasn't racing. The pin that was shown did not look too bad but I hit it with a small drop of solder anyway and voila! I also tensioned the gear select indicator while I was in there so my tranny is displayed correctly...now tomorrow I gotta dig deeper and find out the GEM module issue and resolve the windshield leak! Thanks for all the help folks, glad I found this forum!
#308
#309
would this problem cause my battery to die? I am having an issue that has just recently surfaced to where i'll charge my battery and sometimes it'll drain dead and other times it won't but it WILL NOT stay charged at all for a period of time. all i have to do is touch battery cables (attached to another vehicle) to the battery or a battery charger and it starts right up. no charging time or nothing, almost seems like a bump is all it needs. but the battery is recently new and acid level is good. this is really frustrating. The other day i noticed that while i was driving i actually had to put my truck in nuetral to change the speed of my wipers. is this another short or could the odometer problem be causing it. I heard what sounded something like a sizzle under my dash at that point in time but i could never track it down. and it has stopped and wiper operation has gone back to normal. all except that my battery keeps dying over night or if it is off for a period of time. any help is greatly appreciated since i cannot afford to get a new vehicle at this point in time. any replys please reply to my email address cool_chris26@yahoo.com thanks ahead of time
#310
#311
They are tight and secure on the terminals. Guess I'll look at the other end of them to make sure they are tight there as well but that wouldn't have made a sizzling sound under my dash on drivers side would it
#312
You may want to take a look at all connections on the back of the fuse block and modules within the cabin. I have never heard of this type of problem before, but rule nothing out.
If the truck has ever been in a high humidity area, had water get in due to a window left down during rain, corrosion can set in on connections.
Just take your time, be thorough and you will find the problem.
Good luck,
Tim
If the truck has ever been in a high humidity area, had water get in due to a window left down during rain, corrosion can set in on connections.
Just take your time, be thorough and you will find the problem.
Good luck,
Tim
#313
I made the repair today, took about 3 hours. Included cleaning the gauge face and cleaning and waxing the lens. The odometer is now bright and stays on. Didn't have any problems with my headlight switch, it popped out as a complete unit and just unplugged. Next project: do the power lock repair.
#314
#315
A worn belt or tensioner could be the problem. I have seen this. Even on mine. I changed my belt and it keeps a charge now. You may not see or realize it by looking, but the belt may be stretched causing it to slip enough and prevent the alternator from charging correct. The tension arm could be the issue also. "not keeping tension supplied to the belt.