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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
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Old Dec 14, 2024 | 05:51 PM
  #151  
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Rope rear main seal lubricated?
 
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Old Dec 14, 2024 | 06:46 PM
  #152  
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If it's a rope style he needs a new set with the right seal.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2024 | 01:11 PM
  #153  
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Originally Posted by 440 sixpack
If it's a rope style he needs a new set with the right seal.
I used the two piece rubber seals. One that you offset 3/8s or whatever. I got one of the pistons in this morning. I know the way the top of the pistons face. But does it matter what way the rod caps go on?
 
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Old Dec 15, 2024 | 03:03 PM
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Yes. match the numbers on the same side.

Even in a used bore you should always check end gap just to be sure. you don't need to check them all just one cylinder is enough.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2024 | 07:46 PM
  #155  
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Got 5 out of 8 pistons in today. Properly lubed the rings before installation. I would have gotten more in but my ring compressor broke, its one of the ones where you can tighten and loosen it with the two bands around it.. anyways, none of the pistons had a ton of resistance going into the bore and I didn't hear anything break so I think we are in the clear.
This might be a dumb question, but it doesn't matter what orientation the rings are in going into the compressor, correct? As long as they are on the piston correctly?
 
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Old Dec 15, 2024 | 08:30 PM
  #156  
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They should come out of the compressor in the same position they went in.

It's imperative the compression rings go in with the boss up if they have one. your gaps should be properly positioned to reduce oil consumption and to protect the compression. there are dozens of patterns recommended but basically as long as the gaps are not close to each other you'll never notice the difference. it is important to make sure the oil ring gaps are not close to the ends of the spacer ring.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2024 | 11:28 AM
  #157  
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both sides in and torqued.

 
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Old Dec 16, 2024 | 11:29 AM
  #158  
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Also, I can still turn it with my 1/2 ratchet so I believe we are in the clear.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2024 | 08:41 PM
  #159  
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In your pictures those alignment bushings look WAY too long.

it's normal to turn pretty hard with the pistons in.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2024 | 08:56 PM
  #160  
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Originally Posted by 440 sixpack
In your pictures those alignment bushings look WAY too long.

it's normal to turn pretty hard with the pistons in.
The alignment thing for where the head gasket sits?
weird. I never really thought about it. The truck didn't have any problem sealing them
 
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Old Dec 16, 2024 | 11:02 PM
  #161  
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Originally Posted by xcox
The alignment thing for where the head gasket sits?
weird. I never really thought about it. The truck didn't have any problem sealing them
I think that might be image distortion from the camera. How far to the stick out from the deck?
 
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Old Dec 18, 2024 | 05:19 PM
  #162  
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Got the oil pump and pickup installed, double checked all rods were torqued and mains were torqued. Timing chain is just set on there for now, Im missing the pin for it. Is there specified torque specs for the oil pump bolts and pickup tube bolts? I put locktite on them and made sure they were decently tight.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2024 | 05:44 PM
  #163  
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Those alignment pins can be tapped down (will "bottom out"). Did you put a gasket between the oil pump and the pick up tube? Oil pump drive shaft in place?
Just checking
 
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Old Dec 18, 2024 | 05:46 PM
  #164  
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Yes. I didn't use any sealer on either gasket. I put the drive shaft in place, but I'm a little skeptical if I did it right. It seems to be a little off-center if I look at it from the top.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2024 | 06:16 PM
  #165  
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The distributor will center the shaft. But, after assembly of the motor use a socket with an extension or a regular tool to turn the oil pump shaft to prime the passages.
It's looking good.
 
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