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Oh, and I seem to have misplaced the timing cover bolt that holds the timing mark onto the cover... the super long one..
Another question, the head gasket, is it supposed to be a weird shape around the cylinders? Like not particularly circular?
Ill hopefully be putting the intake and head on tonight. From my book, I'll be soaking the lifters and using a pushrod on the plunger to get oil into the lifter. Probably just use whatever oil I have around, probably Rotella. I also plan on putting some cam lube on the bottom of the lifters.. I haven't gotten new pushrods yet I might or might not
I soaked the lifters for a little bit before installing and put some cam lube on the bottom of them. Currently, pushing down with a pushrod, they don't have any give to them, do I just need to prime the oil pump? Or am I having a different issue? I put oil and a filter in it and spun over the oil pump and it works, I just stopped since I didn't have the gauge hole plugged and it spat oil on the ground.. I'm pretty clueless when it comes to knowing how lifters are supposed to act.
I also noticed that when some of the valves weren't compressed, the pushrod was quite loose.. I figured with a fully stock rebuild I could get away with stock pushrods
Bring a cylinder to TDC compression stroke. to properly check it you need a checker push rod. to just wing it you'd want some resistance when spinning the rod, but that's a pretty poor way to check. if it's loose at all you need longer pushrods.
Bring a cylinder to TDC compression stroke. to properly check it you need a checker push rod. to just wing it you'd want some resistance when spinning the rod, but that's a pretty poor way to check. if it's loose at all you need longer pushrods.
okay... its not a problem most of the lifters wont plunge?
I wouldn't worry about the lifters. I didn't do anything other than soak in oil overnight and drop them in when I did mine in October. They shouldn't be particularly easy to push down. Just install everything to spec and you should be fine. I wouldn't over think it too much.
Any lifters that are coming up on the ramps will be compressed so they won't move. it's on the base circle you have to check them.
Checking preload is not overthinking it's part of any rebuild. hydraulic lifters have a limited amount of adjustment built into them they're not magical problem solvers. odds are it's ok considering what you've done, but if you have enough wear in the rockers and if your valve stem height has changed by any work done to the heads it may need accounted for.
Any lifters that are coming up on the ramps will be compressed so they won't move. it's on the base circle you have to check them.
Checking preload is not overthinking it's part of any rebuild. hydraulic lifters have a limited amount of adjustment built into them they're not magical problem solvers. odds are it's ok considering what you've done, but if you have enough wear in the rockers and if your valve stem height has changed by any work done to the heads it may need accounted for.
Okay. I had a set of melling lifters that came with my cam, and all of them would compress and decompress when pushed in with a pushrod.. Currently, the rockers aren't on and only a select few will decompress.. I'd honestly rather use my NOS comp cam ones... just curious on how the lifters are supposed to work. I'm soaking the melling ones right now just incase I might use them.
they fill with oil and take up the slack. empty they should compress; with oil they should compress but you have to push the oil out. the goal is to have the preload set to where they're inside their adjustment zone and can always keep lash at zero without ever bottoming.
they fill with oil and take up the slack. empty they should compress; with oil they should compress but you have to push the oil out. the goal is to have the preload set to where they're inside their adjustment zone and can always keep lash at zero without ever bottoming.
I put some 1540 rotella and a FL1A filter but I'm afraid it's a little too thick especially for this cold.. I may have to wait for it to warm up
Really close to being able to put it in the truck.. I ended up using the lifters that came with the melling kit. Got the intake aligned and up there myself.
Don't forget to prime oil pump with drill shortly before the first fire. I don't know about FE's, but on 429/460 a 5/16 socket with extension down in distributor hole on the oilpump drive shaft does the trick. Drill runs in reverse
I recommend leaving dizzy off for install so nothing gets broken
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