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Okay, here we are. I made sure to put the thrust bearing on the #3 spot on the block and the #3 main cap. I read in my FE book that the offset oil holes were normal. Are the bearings that go on the block and the main caps different, other than the two thrust bearings? I made sure to not put lube on the bottom of the bearings or on the block, installed them dry and when I put the crank in I'll lube them before. It's a clevite bearing set
Dry installation is fine . lube the bearings good before you drop the crank it. be careful to install the rear main seal correctly and use a little silicone on the cap as the directions say. I prefer TRS it never lets me down.
Other than the thrust bearing they're all the same. used to be only the tops had an oil hole but often they all do now.
X2 on the rear main installation, don't forget what look like a couple finish nails that are with the rear main seal kit. Those need to be tapped into place once you get the rear main cap installed.
I know the machine shop checked clearances but I would plastigage all the bearings anyway. That I would do that with crank installed dry, but do NOT rotate the crank, place it gently, torque your caps in place, don't forget to set the thrust bearing with some taps to the front and rear of crank (procedure should be in your service manual). Remove caps, check that the plastigage squished to proper width. If everything checks out, and you're ready to do final install, use plenty of assembly lube.
Staying very, very clean, well organized and measuring everything twice if not three times is the name of the game here. Having a paint maker to mark your bolts after final torque isn't a bad idea either.
On another note, I have always been told to stand the crank shaft up, never lay it on its side unless you're installing it in the engine block. I have no idea how much truth there is too it, but what I have been told is it can warp the crank laying it on its side.
That's an old wives tale and it's amazing how often you still hear it.
I asked the best shop in the state that turns cranks about that and they just laughed.
That was my thoughts too. Considering how much rotational force is exerted on a crank during normal operation I highly doubt laying it on it's side would cause any distortion.
It's what the old timers told me to do years ago and I didn't question them about it and just did as I was told. That said, it does concern me to have a crank shaft or any internal parts laying on the ground due to dust getting kicked up, but if you are cleaning everything really well before you install for final assembly that shouldn't be much of an issue.
Yeah. I've ordered some cam lube and waiting on that to come in and I'm going to slather it on the cam and reinstall. I've cleaned the crank and bearings I've had the bearings out a couple times and crank in a couple times just seeing how everything works, because I don't have my pistons back from the machine shop yet. Limited space in my garage, especially with the two heads taking up my table. Borrowing a ring compressor from my buddy soon too.
Yeah. I've ordered some cam lube and waiting on that to come in and I'm going to slather it on the cam and reinstall. I've cleaned the crank and bearings I've had the bearings out a couple times and crank in a couple times just seeing how everything works, because I don't have my pistons back from the machine shop yet. Limited space in my garage, especially with the two heads taking up my table. Borrowing a ring compressor from my buddy soon too.
It's a good idea to clean the oil passages out on the crank too. Solvent and heavy duty pipe cleaners are helpful for that.
I got the crank in, and I was going to check bearing clearances, got all the caps in except the rear main seal. One of the bolt holes on the block is a bit iffy and the bolt doesn't go in smoothly. It's not the bolt, I tried it with another bolt too. I think I need to clean the threads, not sure, has me a bit worried, spent a decent amount of money on this block so I don't just want to send it
Chase the threads with a tap and it should be fine. it's almost impossible to screw up main cap threads.
If you didn't turn the crank there's no need to check bearing clearance it's going to be loose. if you did it would be very unlikely the shop messed up but check at least one rod and a main.
You may want to consider getting a bore specific ring compressor. they're not that expensive and you'll throw away your old band style compressors once you use one. breaking a ring is a think of the past with them.
Chase the threads with a tap and it should be fine. it's almost impossible to screw up main cap threads.
If you didn't turn the crank there's no need to check bearing clearance it's going to be loose. if you did it would be very unlikely the shop messed up but check at least one rod and a main.
You may want to consider getting a bore specific ring compressor. they're not that expensive and you'll throw away your old band style compressors once you use one. breaking a ring is a think of the past with them.
appreciate it. Believe it or not never had to use my thread chaser set I bought forever ago and it cleaned the threads up nice. The tap didnt need much force so the threads were only a little mucked up
Get some ZDDP oil additive for when you first start it up.
From what I read years ago, the bending crank thing happened in pre 50's cars, especially straight 6's and 8's. And it was from long tern storage when only the ends were supported. If you look at pics of some of those inline cranks you can see how it can sit on the front and rear counterweights and leave the middle hanging. And it wasn't that much, maybe a couple thousandths of an inch, but enough to throw it out of tolerance. Sometimes they'd just put it in a press and bend it back.
I think you should reconsider upgrading the cam before you get too far along. I'm not real familiar with the FE's, but I would assume a '74 spec cam is getting into an emissions based cam? Even getting a stock profile cam for a mid-late 60's engine would probably be a better choice. Otherwise, why bother putting on headers and a performance intake if the performance was fine before?
Get some ZDDP oil additive for when you first start it up.
From what I read years ago, the bending crank thing happened in pre 50's cars, especially straight 6's and 8's. And it was from long tern storage when only the ends were supported. If you look at pics of some of those inline cranks you can see how it can sit on the front and rear counterweights and leave the middle hanging. And it wasn't that much, maybe a couple thousandths of an inch, but enough to throw it out of tolerance. Sometimes they'd just put it in a press and bend it back.
I think you should reconsider upgrading the cam before you get too far along. I'm not real familiar with the FE's, but I would assume a '74 spec cam is getting into an emissions based cam? Even getting a stock profile cam for a mid-late 60's engine would probably be a better choice. Otherwise, why bother putting on headers and a performance intake if the performance was fine before?
Fair. Those ideas were before i tore into the motor. I have practically new manifolds and I'll probably just go with the 2 barrel intake. I've already got the cam, and that was before I knew about the whole hydraulic flat tappet break in fiasco.. so I figured the more simple the better chances
With what you have and stock spring pressures you're most likely going to be fine.
I'm not sure what you're doing with the heads, but if they're not checked out and get proper attention everything else you're trying to do right will be a waste.
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