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Old Nov 25, 2024 | 09:22 AM
  #91  
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Putting used lifters back in without knowing what hole they came from is a textbook no - no. but if they look good the risk of that compared to a new set of imported junk lifters may be less. it's a risk either way so maybe go with the cheaper risk.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2024 | 09:34 AM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by 440 sixpack
Putting used lifters back in without knowing what hole they came from is a textbook no - no. but if they look good the risk of that compared to a new set of imported junk lifters may be less. it's a risk either way so maybe go with the cheaper risk.
that’s why I kept mine all lined up.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2024 | 10:05 AM
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Again, if the bottom of the lifters is concave don't use them.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2024 | 09:59 PM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by 440 sixpack
Putting used lifters back in without knowing what hole they came from is a textbook no - no. but if they look good the risk of that compared to a new set of imported junk lifters may be less. it's a risk either way so maybe go with the cheaper risk.
Yeah, I'm really at a loss of what to do. I don't have the budget to go roller, and it seems like with all the cam issues and them being junk it may be good for me to re-use what I have now.. but yeah, I didn't label anything because I planned on going new everything but didn't know the cams were so junk
 
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Old Nov 25, 2024 | 10:38 PM
  #95  
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I think what I've finally decided to do is use my old lifters since they're presumably better than the chinese junk, and a new cam.. I think that's the best way to go here.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2024 | 11:05 PM
  #96  
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The cams are fine most are still CWD blanks. it's the lifters that are junk.

If you're going to reuse the lifters you may want to reuse the cam if it's decent. at least it's broke in .
 
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Old Nov 26, 2024 | 02:09 PM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by xcox
Yeah, I'm really at a loss of what to do. I don't have the budget to go roller, and it seems like with all the cam issues and them being junk it may be good for me to re-use what I have now.. but yeah, I didn't label anything because I planned on going new everything but didn't know the cams were so junk
Lesson for future work. Always keep in order until you are done with the project. Only takes a few minutes. It's a learning experience. You learned.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2024 | 10:31 AM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by tcanthonyii
Look at a howards cam. They were the only people offering a break-in warranty when I was looking earlier this year.

For high zinc oil or any oil in General I prefer Valvoline. ZR1 is their high zinc content. Just another brand to keep in mind that even walmart keeps in stock at some locations.

T.C.
lots of folks have said it already but….
howards lifters and cam, a true break in oil, changed immediately after break in is done. VR1 for a couple hundred miles, change it again and then VR1 from there on out. I would run Napa gold (wix) or wix oil filters. Standard Melling oil pump/screen. If the machine shop is honing I would run a moly ring pack.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2024 | 09:25 AM
  #99  
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Getting my motor back tomorrow, new freeze plugs new cam bearings, rod bearings and main bearings and clearance checked, had it hot tanked and he said the block had little wear at all. Deglazed and honed too.oh, and new piston rings
$330 machine shop bill
 
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Old Dec 2, 2024 | 10:11 AM
  #100  
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That’s a good price and good news on the block. Solid foundation to build.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2024 | 08:23 AM
  #101  
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That's a hell of deal. Is that assembled or just the parts and you are doing assembly? I would have done that with my engine instead of the endless cleaning I did.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2024 | 12:08 PM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by tcanthonyii
That's a hell of deal. Is that assembled or just the parts and you are doing assembly? I would have done that with my engine instead of the endless cleaning I did.
I am doing the assembly but the block is all good and clean, main bearings labeled in order i just need to get bearings and set the crank in
I thought I was going to get bearings from the shop but I guess not, I'll need to get some
 
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Old Dec 3, 2024 | 09:08 PM
  #103  
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Heres the cam I am probably going to go with:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m...b-23/make/ford
Just a stock replacement melling cam, already have a new melling oil pump and pickup tube. I'd like to get the cam installed before the crank so I can see the cam go in and have it go in smoothly. The kit comes with lifters and assembly lube. Figured I'd just cross my fingers and hope for the best. I'm ordering it tomorrow, I couldn't find a howards stock replacement cam, so if you can find one let me know.
And, you know, I figured the more stock I go the better chance I have of it being successful during break-in.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2024 | 09:30 PM
  #104  
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Always install the cam first. put a bolt in the front and if you can't spin it with 2 fingers, you'll have to wear it in. a cam should always turn easily or you risk spinning a cam bearing.

Nothing wrong with a Melling cam they're basically OEM. most people go with an RV cam for a stock build, super common and cheap from many sources. they're slightly better torque than stock but use the same springs and everything.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2024 | 06:32 AM
  #105  
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What about one of these grinds?

i like this one
https://crower.com/camshafts/ford/33...haft-5728.html

https://crower.com/camshafts/ford/33...haft-5704.html

these two seem little milder than stock, but more lift. Might be worth a call to crower, they could have steeper ramps?

https://crower.com/camshafts/ford/33...haft-5703.html

https://crower.com/camshafts/ford/33...haft-5702.html

crower sells notched lifters to go with their cams….



 
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