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The rods are the longer, spindly 352/360 rods but the pistons aren't a full skirt so it's not a 352.
The pistons say "360".
At this point, it doesn't matter what the stroke is because the combination of long rods and tall compression height pistons WOULD NOT WORK with a 3.78" stroke crankshaft without putting the crowns above the block deck.
It's a 3.5" stroke, no doubt. It HAS to be with the combination of parts pictured. Oh, and this helps identify it, too.
Gotcha, can I use that with stock valve springs and stock timing gear / chain?
Also, update, got the crank and cam and bearings out of the block. Time to see what the machine shop can do / suggests.
New, but stock springs would probably be okay with that cam. Since the exhaust side is over .500 lift, you will want to check for coil bind though. A double roller timing set is a good upgrade regardless.
How did the bearings look? Any copper showing or big grooves/gouges?
None of the bearings looked particularly good, yeah, copper showing in most of them. I suspect it's never been apart. Not completely sure what I'm wanting from the machine shop though, first time doing this.
Ideally you want to be able to polish the crank and hone the cylinders of the engine block. Keep everything standard and install new bearings and piston rings after a lot of cleanup.
In reality, you will more than likely end up having the crank ground down, which requires oversized bearings that are easily found. The bores are more than likely worn, tapered, and/or out of round. The machine shop will remove the minimal amount of material required to make the bore true. Typically a rebuild requires .010" on the crank and .030" on the bores be removed. Depending on the condition of the block it may also require line honing of the crank journals and machining of the deck surface. They will also hot tank the block to clean it before hand.
You can have your cylinder heads rebuilt which can involve guide, valve and seat replacement depending on the condition.
Double roller timing set will have less friction than a typical link bar timing set. Less friction equals more power, but that is secondary. Most double roller timing sets allow for adjustment of cam timing. It is best to "degree" a cam after it is installed to ensure the cam card sheet matches the measurements as installed. If the measurements do not match, most double roller timing chain sets allow for some adjustment. Camshaft timing is a whole other subject.
Okay. Once I figure out how to get this thing in the back of my truck it'll go to the machine shop. I don't have a crazy budget but I've never had anything done by a machine shop before so we will see.
Those bearings are worn, but not all that bad. You might luck out and be able to get away with polishing the crank, but you won't know until there are some accurate measurements done. The main and rod bearings in mine had a lot more copper showing.
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