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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
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Old Dec 12, 2024 | 02:39 PM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by 440 sixpack
With what you have and stock spring pressures you're most likely going to be fine.

I'm not sure what you're doing with the heads, but if they're not checked out and get proper attention everything else you're trying to do right will be a waste.
yeah. I plan on getting everything assembled in the bottom end then taking the heads in
 
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Old Dec 13, 2024 | 09:33 PM
  #137  
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How easy should the crank be to turn with all the caps torqued? I have to turn it with a ratchet to be able to turn it. I've heard in some places it's supposed to be able to turn with your hand.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2024 | 09:36 PM
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I can turn the crank with one hand but takes a lot of force.

 
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Old Dec 13, 2024 | 09:48 PM
  #139  
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It should turn easily by just grabbing the snout on the crank. assuming you lubed it up properly. standard bearings on a warn crank could not be tight unless they're incorrectly marked.

Did you seat the thrust bearing with a deadblow? it shouldn't cause this but there aren't many things you can get wrong.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2024 | 10:00 PM
  #140  
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Originally Posted by 440 sixpack
It should turn easily by just grabbing the snout on the crank. assuming you lubed it up properly. standard bearings on a warn crank could not be tight unless they're incorrectly marked.

Did you seat the thrust bearing with a deadblow? it shouldn't cause this but there aren't many things you can get wrong.

I did not seat the thrust bearing with a deadblow. Everything is properly lubed and all main caps came from the machine shop labeled and arrow pointing towards the front of the engine.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2024 | 10:09 PM
  #141  
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With all the caps out except the rear main, I can turn the crank with 1 hand but not completely freely. The other caps made little differences as I took them off and tried to spin it again.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2024 | 10:44 PM
  #142  
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This is how it is with number 1 cap snug, not even torqued.
(yes ignore my heavy breathing LOL)
 
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Old Dec 13, 2024 | 11:05 PM
  #143  
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Heres another with the main caps torqued down. I may just be overthinking it, sorry for the bunch of questions lol
 
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Old Dec 14, 2024 | 12:40 AM
  #144  
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X2 w/440. You should be able to turn the crank by its snout fairly easy. Once you get pistons and rings installed you may need a ratchet or breaker bar to assist. Crank only should spin easily.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2024 | 06:45 AM
  #145  
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I dont know that ive tried to spin crank with dry bearings , of course thats how u got to measure
 
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Old Dec 14, 2024 | 07:03 AM
  #146  
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Originally Posted by mterickson
X2 w/440. You should be able to turn the crank by its snout fairly easy. Once you get pistons and rings installed you may need a ratchet or breaker bar to assist. Crank only should spin easily.
so what am I doing wrong here? It's standard bearings on a untouched crank.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2024 | 08:03 AM
  #147  
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Originally Posted by KubotaOrange76
I dont know that ive tried to spin crank with dry bearings , of course thats how u got to measure
everything was properly lubed since I thought itd be final assembly
 
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Old Dec 14, 2024 | 09:55 AM
  #148  
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You're probably ok, it's normal to turn easy but it's not like you can just give it a spin and it keeps turning.

If you can grab the snout and with a little effort turn the crank I'd run with it. if you need tools that's not good. it doesn't mean you're going to have a problem it just means something isn't quite right, but it might correct itself.

Check your thrust bearing and see if it's rubbing. to seat it you loosen the cap a little then pound the crank forward and backward a few times before you tighten it back down. it's just a common procedure it may or may not help.

If your machine shop didn't check your crank bores then that's probably your problem. normally you have it checked and align honed if necessary. since you're doing a stocker build and not wanting to spend a lot you're probably ok. it's just not ideal.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2024 | 10:02 AM
  #149  
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Originally Posted by 440 sixpack
You're probably ok, it's normal to turn easy but it's not like you can just give it a spin and it keeps turning.

If you can grab the snout and with a little effort turn the crank I'd run with it. if you need tools that's not good. it doesn't mean you're going to have a problem it just means something isn't quite right, but it might correct itself.

Check your thrust bearing and see if it's rubbing. to seat it you loosen the cap a little then pound the crank forward and backward a few times before you tighten it back down. it's just a common procedure it may or may not help.

If your machine shop didn't check your crank bores then that's probably your problem. normally you have it checked and align honed if necessary. since you're doing a stocker build and not wanting to spend a lot you're probably ok. it's just not ideal.
Ok sounds good. I read in my book to pry the crank forward and then torque the main cap to seat it. I talked to the guy at the machine shop and he said he has only seen one or two that spin freely so I think I'll be fine.

I'll see where I'm at with the pistons in. Ill try spinning it after each piston goes in.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2024 | 05:31 PM
  #150  
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the problem is it's hard to describe something that's measured in inch pounds. it's safe to say if you cant turn the crank with one hand then something is wrong. if you can it but it's stiff it might be a little off but should be ok.

when you start putting pistons in it's going to get stiff fast. you'll need a wrench after a few are in. that's normal. be sure they're oriented correctly and oil the rings up really good . dry ring grooves are the cause of most broken rings.
 
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