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With what you have and stock spring pressures you're most likely going to be fine.
I'm not sure what you're doing with the heads, but if they're not checked out and get proper attention everything else you're trying to do right will be a waste.
yeah. I plan on getting everything assembled in the bottom end then taking the heads in
How easy should the crank be to turn with all the caps torqued? I have to turn it with a ratchet to be able to turn it. I've heard in some places it's supposed to be able to turn with your hand.
It should turn easily by just grabbing the snout on the crank. assuming you lubed it up properly. standard bearings on a warn crank could not be tight unless they're incorrectly marked.
Did you seat the thrust bearing with a deadblow? it shouldn't cause this but there aren't many things you can get wrong.
It should turn easily by just grabbing the snout on the crank. assuming you lubed it up properly. standard bearings on a warn crank could not be tight unless they're incorrectly marked.
Did you seat the thrust bearing with a deadblow? it shouldn't cause this but there aren't many things you can get wrong.
I did not seat the thrust bearing with a deadblow. Everything is properly lubed and all main caps came from the machine shop labeled and arrow pointing towards the front of the engine.
With all the caps out except the rear main, I can turn the crank with 1 hand but not completely freely. The other caps made little differences as I took them off and tried to spin it again.
X2 w/440. You should be able to turn the crank by its snout fairly easy. Once you get pistons and rings installed you may need a ratchet or breaker bar to assist. Crank only should spin easily.
X2 w/440. You should be able to turn the crank by its snout fairly easy. Once you get pistons and rings installed you may need a ratchet or breaker bar to assist. Crank only should spin easily.
so what am I doing wrong here? It's standard bearings on a untouched crank.
You're probably ok, it's normal to turn easy but it's not like you can just give it a spin and it keeps turning.
If you can grab the snout and with a little effort turn the crank I'd run with it. if you need tools that's not good. it doesn't mean you're going to have a problem it just means something isn't quite right, but it might correct itself.
Check your thrust bearing and see if it's rubbing. to seat it you loosen the cap a little then pound the crank forward and backward a few times before you tighten it back down. it's just a common procedure it may or may not help.
If your machine shop didn't check your crank bores then that's probably your problem. normally you have it checked and align honed if necessary. since you're doing a stocker build and not wanting to spend a lot you're probably ok. it's just not ideal.
You're probably ok, it's normal to turn easy but it's not like you can just give it a spin and it keeps turning.
If you can grab the snout and with a little effort turn the crank I'd run with it. if you need tools that's not good. it doesn't mean you're going to have a problem it just means something isn't quite right, but it might correct itself.
Check your thrust bearing and see if it's rubbing. to seat it you loosen the cap a little then pound the crank forward and backward a few times before you tighten it back down. it's just a common procedure it may or may not help.
If your machine shop didn't check your crank bores then that's probably your problem. normally you have it checked and align honed if necessary. since you're doing a stocker build and not wanting to spend a lot you're probably ok. it's just not ideal.
Ok sounds good. I read in my book to pry the crank forward and then torque the main cap to seat it. I talked to the guy at the machine shop and he said he has only seen one or two that spin freely so I think I'll be fine.
I'll see where I'm at with the pistons in. Ill try spinning it after each piston goes in.
the problem is it's hard to describe something that's measured in inch pounds. it's safe to say if you cant turn the crank with one hand then something is wrong. if you can it but it's stiff it might be a little off but should be ok.
when you start putting pistons in it's going to get stiff fast. you'll need a wrench after a few are in. that's normal. be sure they're oriented correctly and oil the rings up really good . dry ring grooves are the cause of most broken rings.
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