First 360 / 390 Build
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,661
Likes: 1,062
From: Montana
I agree with the other posters that $400 for the heads isn't bad at all. Just a valve job of grinding seats and valves I was quoted $240. I opted to replace the valves instead of grinding them, had them grind the seats, replace valve guides, machine the guides for viton valve seals. They also hot tanked and pressure tested them to check for cracks. Their head guy assembled them with the new seals, valves, springs, retainers and locks that I provided.
I don't know exactly what I paid for the heads since they were included in my bill for the engine block cleaning and machining, flywheel resurfacing and buying a .010 under 400 crank from them. I'm guessing it was $500-600 for the heads when it was all said and done.
I'm looking at 2-3x's that cost for a set of aluminum heads so I have opted to stick with factory cast iron heads for now.
For your build considering you're still bone stock original on the bottom end I don't think it's worth the investment for aluminum heads but that's my opinion. I would spend the $400 and have the original heads rebuilt instead.
I don't know exactly what I paid for the heads since they were included in my bill for the engine block cleaning and machining, flywheel resurfacing and buying a .010 under 400 crank from them. I'm guessing it was $500-600 for the heads when it was all said and done.
I'm looking at 2-3x's that cost for a set of aluminum heads so I have opted to stick with factory cast iron heads for now.
For your build considering you're still bone stock original on the bottom end I don't think it's worth the investment for aluminum heads but that's my opinion. I would spend the $400 and have the original heads rebuilt instead.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2024
Posts: 178
Likes: 32
Been waiting on the heads to get rebuilt. Budgets been tight, recently had to get another truck to drive back and forth to college but it's having issues. Decided I needed another truck instead of daily driving my 68 
Its Comin Right for us!
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 12,161
Likes: 2,639
From: GA
Its Comin Right for us!
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 12,161
Likes: 2,639
From: GA
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2024
Posts: 178
Likes: 32
I've got one head back from the machine shop and put on.. getting other one rebuilt currently instead of looking for another. I do believe I have the timing chain and fuel pump eccentric on correctly. I drove the pin in till it couldn't go any farther and it held the timing chain onto the cam, and locktited the cam bolt and made sure the washer covered the pin. Timing dots match up at TDC. I know which way the oil slinger goes on as well. Drove the seal out of the cover today, going to install new one tomorrow.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 7,877
Likes: 2,366
Look at the surface on your vibration damper where the seal runs and see what condition it's in. you can get a sleek to cover it if needed, cheap and easy to install.
You could check the preload on a few lifters and see if your pushrods are going to work.
You could check the preload on a few lifters and see if your pushrods are going to work.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2024
Posts: 178
Likes: 32
yes. My eccentric is like that. I figure as long as the cam bolt doesn't come loose ill be fine