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Yes, it is one of the nylon timing sets. I didn't know they used those in the FE engines too. I knew they did on the 351M/400 engines. My 351M still had the original on it too when I tore it down a couple months back
I just went through this on my 71 390. I kept the original cam and just honed the stock bore. The truck has a perceived 140k miles on it (could be 240 but it's def. not 40). I really didn't even have the money to do what I did. Anyway engine was running but had what I was told was a bad valve in #4. I pulled the engine because oil pressure was so low the valves were ticking. Oil pressure was bad due to a plugged pickup tube. Engine wasn't overly sludgy, in fact very little actually. You can see the progress in my build thread in my signature. All of the bearings were showing copper and there was no cross hatch left in the cylinders. Plugs were not oily and I wasn't loosing massive amounts of oil.
I bought a set of heads and had them re-built. The heads had hardened seats in already. I did a std size re-ring. End gaps were just like a thou out of spec and I just want a truck to drive a few times a year to the store and back or work so I went with a dingleball. Had the Crank polished and came back as std/std. So all std bearings went back in. I have 3-400 miles on it in the last 1.5 weeks so it's fresh. Time will tell how it does but I'm not beating on it, just driving it. Someday it will get a cam and a bore but for now I'm driving it and it runs sweet after dialing in vacuum leaks, timing, dwell and gap.I'm at just under 2 grand on the "refreshening".
Gotcha, that's really what I'm planning to do but im going to put a new cam and lifters.. my truck had good oil pressure but it ran like **** and had a good bit of blowby..
@nutter3
I've got a D9T something 429 block in my Trekker Van. My engine machinist stroked it to 460, then balanced it.
@xcox
I am running a Crane "mid-range" cam because when towing and or climbing up into the Sierra Nevada mountains, I'm running the engine in it's Power-Band 3200 to 4200 rpms.
Call me dumb, but, I'm happily running No Vacuum Advance, so just initial (whatever that may be) plus mechanical in the dizzy.
Oh, yeah, the paper gasket between the cast alum timing cover and engine block sprung a coolant leak.
That gave me a chance to inspect the timing chain slop. WOW, I measured 7/8-inch play, so I installed a new Cloyes timing set with cam 'straight-up' supposedly. The timing cover was replaced with a Summit Racing unit.
If your rocker arms are non-adjustable, I would consider the extra $$$ to have adjustable roller rockers.
The curse is there are so many possibilities to choose from.
Your local machinist should give you some good pointers to ponder. $$$$
Enjoy the engine build.
Stroke will definitely tell you. You can also pull the numbers off the crank. They will also tell you if its a 360 or 390. I'd recommend a double roller timing chain as well. Much better than the stocker replacement.
Looks like its a 360. I don't have all the pistons out yet but some of the main bearings show wear (as in copper) as well as the rod bearings. Also, I noticed this on one of the piston skirts.