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i haven't retorqued any bolts. Ill do that. And i just dont think i had my points set correctly / i had to replace them. My distributor is a little rough, actually, the condenser is unable to be removed. Bolt isnt stripped ive gotten the biggest flathead i can and it won't budge. I'll have to keep trouble shooting. I haven't had time to diagnose, been working on my Bumpside.
Yes, it can be. But that is all part of the fun keeping these old trucks alive...
Did you rebuild the carb? If not, might be a good time to do so, if you did, your float level may need some adjustment and/or there might be debris in the needle/seat keeping it open.
The condenser's purpose is to keep the points from arcing when they are opened. If it has gone bad, you may be getting a lot of pitting and prematurely wearing out the points regardless of whether they are set correctly. Of course proper gap and dwell is important too.
Yes, it can be. But that is all part of the fun keeping these old trucks alive...
Did you rebuild the carb? If not, might be a good time to do so, if you did, your float level may need some adjustment and/or there might be debris in the needle/seat keeping it open.
The condenser's purpose is to keep the points from arcing when they are opened. If it has gone bad, you may be getting a lot of pitting and prematurely wearing out the points regardless of whether they are set correctly. Of course proper gap and dwell is important too.
I'll have to get to rebuilding my carb. Funny enough i rebuilt the entire motor and I'm not too sure I can rebuild a carb. I did half of a 1 barrel once but I'll hava to give it a shot
A motorcraft 2 barrel is a great carb to learn with. Quite a simple design. I had a '66 Ford Galaxie for my first car, rebuilt the 2bbl carb on that as a teenager and it worked correctly afterwards, so there's that...it was a fun car with a 390 in it.
Just make sure you have a nice space to take everything apart and spread it out in front of you. Stay organized and be meticulous about cleaning everything. Doesn't take much to keep a needle from properly seating. I bet you can find some rebuild or at least disassembly videos on YT.
A motorcraft 2 barrel is a great carb to learn with. Quite a simple design. I had a '66 Ford Galaxie for my first car, rebuilt the 2bbl carb on that as a teenager and it worked correctly afterwards, so there's that...it was a fun car with a 390 in it.
Just make sure you have a nice space to take everything apart and spread it out in front of you. Stay organized and be meticulous about cleaning everything. Doesn't take much to keep a needle from properly seating. I bet you can find some rebuild or at least disassembly videos on YT.
update. I just went out and tinkered with it and now its running perfect again. No miss it drives now. I swear, i opened the distributor up and messed with the two screws that hold on the points and scrape some stuff off the rotor and that's what did it. That's probably the third time I've had to do it. I wish I could explain it better but legit all I did was mess with the points gap. It may be my Chinese oreily points or condenser i can't get out.
update. I just went out and tinkered with it and now its running perfect again. No miss it drives now. I swear, i opened the distributor up and messed with the two screws that hold on the points and scrape some stuff off the rotor and that's what did it. That's probably the third time I've had to do it. I wish I could explain it better but legit all I did was mess with the points gap. It may be my Chinese oreily points or condenser i can't get out.
I had my points set right but the dwell was atrocious. Once we screwed around with that for over an hour mine runs fantastic. So it makes sense.
All you need is for the points to barely open, as long as they're opening that's enough, the main thing you'll notice by messing with the points is the change in makes in your timing.
All you need is for the points to barely open, as long as they're opening that's enough, the main thing you'll notice by messing with the points is the change in makes in your timing.
well my issue is this is the third time ive had to do it. Same symptoms each time. Runs and misses real bad, no change when I give it throttle. Each time it's the points. Trying to source a oem set of points and condenser like I did in my 68. No issues with that in a year since I put them in.
May be worth trying another coil, a bad coil won't deliver enough voltage although usually an engine will idle OK however miss and starve under load much as if it were starving for gas.
As suggested earlier check the voltage to coil, deteriorating wiring and connectors on older vehicles is surprisingly common.
Check for cracks in the distributor cap, look at it in the dark running, you'll often see sparking in the cap if it has cracks, not always obvious on a visual inspection.
I'll have to do more digging in. About a week ago I took the points apart and put them back together and had a blue spark and now it runs like it was when I could drive it around.
Well here's my next issue. Truck runs fantastic now. Fighting this. My 300 truck did the same thing and I flushed it real good and got a aluminum radiator and it doesntndo it anymore. The truck doesn't overheat which is the weird thing. It'll get a little warmer at idle but once you drive it goes back to barely normal. Oil is nice and clean and in normal range.
On an FE the oil can get into the coolant from a bad head gasket but also it can happen in a block that has a lot of corrosion inside of the water jackets. I was told one time that at Mendenhall rebuilders on every 391 that they built they would drill and ream out the passageways that go to the heads and then press some kind of pushrod into the hole with sealer to avoid that problem I think that I would probably try some head gaskets first.
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