400 HP Engine Build - Input Needed
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 425
So from the core engine I got a front cover, oil cooler, fuel bowl, HPOP res, HPOP, bunch of stuff from several heads (mostly rocker arms assemblies). What parts are worth keeping around for say ten years of ownership and what should I just sell?
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 13,094
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From: Henderson, NV
If you were to ask my wife, she would tell you to sell everything. Seriously though, if the engine gets built right from the get go, the most I would keep are "wear" items the HPOP and front cover. Perhaps the transmission adapter as well since those seem to have a history of breaking at the starter mount.
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Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,345
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From: Lake Hartwell, GA
If it were me, I would sell anything that doesn't require a core or to be rebuilt. The two big ones that come to mind and ones I have on hand are injectors and HPOP. I would sell the other parts simply based on this...
You will get money for the parts and be helping someone out. You can use the money at A LOT of places where the parts are designed for one purpose. If down the road and on the off chance you need some parts in the future, you can purchase them.
Why store parts for an engine that is pretty much new or better than new when you are able to help out others and recoup some expenses.
I seem to recall you live in an appartment and have nowhere to work on the truck. Do you have a place to store parts long term that doesn't cost additional funds?
You are going through a lot of effort to make one of the most reliable engine platforms more reliable.
That said, you do whatever gives you the most peace to think about because what we say doesn't matter at all in your daily life.
You will get money for the parts and be helping someone out. You can use the money at A LOT of places where the parts are designed for one purpose. If down the road and on the off chance you need some parts in the future, you can purchase them.
Why store parts for an engine that is pretty much new or better than new when you are able to help out others and recoup some expenses.
I seem to recall you live in an appartment and have nowhere to work on the truck. Do you have a place to store parts long term that doesn't cost additional funds?
You are going through a lot of effort to make one of the most reliable engine platforms more reliable.
That said, you do whatever gives you the most peace to think about because what we say doesn't matter at all in your daily life.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 425
Time to start thinking about first start and break-in procedures.
I figure fill the oil rails, HPOP res, crank for 20. Let starter cool, crank again, let cool. Start truck check for leaks let coolant burp, check oil pressure. Apply a light load to bring it up to operating temp quickly. Once warmed up run up some steep hills moderately loaded at RPMs around the engine peak torque points to increase cylinder pressures and help seat rings. Drain oil, cut open oil filter to check for metal. Check for exhaust fuel/oil/exhaust leaks. Refill and drive with a loaded bed and emphasis on peak torque region of RPM with little idle time for 500mi. Change oil and filter at 500 and drive normally after that.
Is this a good plan? There anything I'm missing?
I figure fill the oil rails, HPOP res, crank for 20. Let starter cool, crank again, let cool. Start truck check for leaks let coolant burp, check oil pressure. Apply a light load to bring it up to operating temp quickly. Once warmed up run up some steep hills moderately loaded at RPMs around the engine peak torque points to increase cylinder pressures and help seat rings. Drain oil, cut open oil filter to check for metal. Check for exhaust fuel/oil/exhaust leaks. Refill and drive with a loaded bed and emphasis on peak torque region of RPM with little idle time for 500mi. Change oil and filter at 500 and drive normally after that.
Is this a good plan? There anything I'm missing?
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 13,094
Likes: 4,705
From: Henderson, NV
Maybe do the light load to warmed up cycles several times with full engine cool down in-between before you do the steep hill heavily loaded runs. Then before each light load warm-up startup, check head bolt and injector bolt torque. Maybe check injector bolt torque immediately after shut down.
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Joined: Jun 2013
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From: north of Minneapolis, MN
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CNCFAB
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I believe they are about .062 if memory serves me. Hopefully others can verify
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 425
From Swamps I think:
From @DZL JIM on another board:
In terms of other updates:
After speaking with a head parts supplier, decided to go with SBI iron guides and SBI nitrided valves.
Also, landed a good deal on Brian Crower rods... after selling my rods/studs, factoring in saved machining costs, doesn't come out too bad. Felt like they were a good idea given I'll be using a VGT.
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: North East Ohio
Cometic has a very solid name, and products, and I would never hesitate to use them for anything.
Yes, I had an issue, but we pushed them to make the .120" gaskets and in the end they said "Don't blame me, it's what you wanted." Which I get. It just isn't a good idea to go that thick to lower compression.
Yes, I had an issue, but we pushed them to make the .120" gaskets and in the end they said "Don't blame me, it's what you wanted." Which I get. It just isn't a good idea to go that thick to lower compression.
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'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
