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-6 hose to -6 union tee to -10 hose to -16 filter, filter to -10 hose to -6 union tee to -6 hose to rails -5.
As long as I source quality hose and the right fittings I don't see leaks being an issue. There's plenty of leak points already the engine anyway; each head has like four ORB -5 ports on top, plus the oringed caps at the ends of the rails, plus two smaller ORB fittings under the valve covers...
Quite a lot of beef in this thing. Should work just fine. Due to the weight might not be able to fit it on the engine—will have to experiment when it's assembled on the stand.
What I'll probably do is keep my CNCFab hoses in the truck's emergency kit in case I have a filter or connection failure. But again I don't think that will be an issue if it's put together right.
After doing a bunch of reading on the CAT engines, and how it's typical to install a post-HPOP filter to protect injectors, I think I'll go the same route. Dove through the Parker catalog and found a solution that fits the flow and pressure needs (and is affordable on the secondary market). The filter is 2 micron so will help keep larger soot clusters away from the injectors as well.
I’ve been wondering about this....
I think the engine oil filter is something like 30mic and is a bypass design?
on edit: quick look and it appears the MC 1995 is 19mic nominal. Not sure what the absolute rating is, but possibly that’s the 30mic my brain recalls from the abyss of mostly useless and often inaccurate information stored there.
Seems like a full flow 2mic will require maintenance more frequently than normal OCI??
Perhaps additional oil filtration would be beneficial? Something like a centrifuge?
I’m struggling to justify this mod. If stock engines can run 500k or more on a factory-equipped HPOP and I’ve seen injectors go 385k (on vegetable oil), it’s hard to want to add more maintenance, much less clutter and additional points of failure to the system.
The HEUI filter isn't necessarily intended to be a soot filtering filter. It's more like an added bonus "well this element goes down to 2 micron which might help keep larger soot particulates away from the injectors". IIRC the filter holds up to 6 or 8 grams of particulates within it's filtering range, and the bulk of the oil it'll see is post main oil filter, and it's only filtering the oil that is allowed past the IPR. Couple that with me having total-seal rings, I don't see the filter clogging as being an issue... if it is though there are coarser elements available. If it doesn't work for some unforeseen reason I could rip it out and repurpose the filter for some other project. It only cost me 50 dollars.
The centrifuge filter thing is an interesting idea, but wonder if it'd work on our rigs. 60psi turns them at 6000RPM (speed at which they filter down to 0.5 microns I think). How long are our rigs at 60PSI oil pressure?
If your putting it in line of the hpo lines then it's going to be filtering oil that doesn't go through the ipr. Not that it really matters. But the ipr is a bleed off valve.
If your putting it in line of the hpo lines then it's going to be filtering oil that doesn't go through the ipr. Not that it really matters. But the ipr is a bleed off valve.
Ah yeah bad phrasing on my part. I meant whatever oil is allowed to the injectors by the IPR.
I've read that, even with ARP studs and a plate girdle you can still get main cap fretting/walk. The girdle helps distribute the forces but given that the caps aren't tied to the block they can still frett. Evidently Cummins had this issue on the N14 at one point when they bumped up the HP:
So the idea is: Loctite the caps to the block (and probably loctite the girdle to the top of the caps). Looks like Cummins used 518 which is a med strength sealant. When I called Henkel they recommended 640 which is a high strength retaining compound. Both would be able to tolerate the engine temps and presence of oil.
Will have to talk it over with a few machinists. The big concern is would the film be thick enough to mess with bearing clearance? Intuition tells me if I apply a uniform thin film of this stuff I shouldn't have issues, but wanted to get the brain trust's input first. @Dan V I figure you might have some good input.
I know that there is somebody on this forum that has extensive knowledge of these products. However, I am not that guy.
That said, let's peel the onion.
To my thinking, the application of Loctite 640 between the bearing caps is going to vastly different than using it on a thread. A thread is going to have some clearance on a portion of the thread. The only clearance your application is going to have, will be the surface profile created during the machining process. I highly doubt that there will be any measurable film thickness.
Will it help? Maybe. Will it hurt? Doubtful.....that's my .02
Sounds good. Like I said I'll have to talk to my machinist about it. Also I should call Henkel again and get some more clarification; Cummins manual says to use 518 as other compounds could become brittle.
It may get into/under the bearing = problems.
It may keep the cap from seating properly = problems.
I admire your inquiring mind and outside of the box thinking. But IMHO don’t reinvent the wheel in this case. The 7.3 will live for 300k+ easily as is.
I’m concerned too many additions and mods may cloud the waters if you have some type of issue when it gets back together. I personally would stick to what is known for the most part.
Funny story (not really) about the race car. It’s a tiny 289.
Years back I broke a rocker stud and decided we’d tear down the engine for a rebuild. Almost didn’t but already had it out of the car so…. Anyhow got to the mains and #2 cap is broken in two. Still in place but cracked through and held on with the bolts. Back of the bearing showed wear from living on the cracked cap. Hard to tell how long it had been like that, but it was obviously not a fresh break. Shift at 6500. I blamed the 2 step launch control (lots of vibration) for breaking the cap but 🤷♂️. Haven’t torn it back down again since. Hopefully it’s holding strong now.
Point is, these things are pretty tough. Even the 289 from 1965.
I’m concerned too many additions and mods may cloud the waters if you have some type of issue when it gets back together. I personally would stick to what is known for the most part.
You're not wrong but also that train left the station long ago! I guess the one advantage I have is I know how all the pieces fit together having specified/designed them.
So regular machinist I worked with thought it'd probably be fine and that the 640 would just fill they valleys in the machining marks on the cap surface, not changing final dimensions much. Auto machinist vetoed the idea because, if it does change the ID at all, the machining bill for the block might skyrocket. Right now he just thinks a line hone is required for the mains and best to leave it at that. So what I'll do is probably put some 518 between the plate girdle and bottom of the bearing caps.
Auto machinist would prefer to put in manganese-bronze guides so heading in that direction. He also looked over the Fel-Pro HGs and said they look fine.
