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Any suggestions for general engine deburring and chamfer/radiusing? The inside stuff should be straightforward but what about on the deck? Tops of cylinders, water passages, chamfer bolt holes? Every feature on there snags pretty bad currently.
Yeah I'll be using a noga tool for part of it. What I mean is is a good idea to deburr/put a tiny radius on the deck features, specifically top of the cylinder?
Yeah I'll be using a noga tool for part of it. What I mean is is a good idea to deburr/put a tiny radius on the deck features, specifically top of the cylinder?
The Noga should give you the edge break you want. Hand position changes the angle though.
Noga, round file, and zero flute chamfer tool worked the best.
Made a small apprentice mark with the file that I can feel with my nail but not my finger pad. Light touch up with some high grit should be good.
This cam bearing looks like it was put in backwards?
Main bearing bore vertical is six tenths above min allowed
Bearing bore horizontal is 4.4 thousandths bigger than vertical. Book doesn't specify out of roundness spec for this bore but that seems quite bad? The diameter spec from min to max is a thousandth difference.
Bearing bore at the other end of the block is at the top end of allowable spec.
Also seems out of round by same amount.
The cylinder bores read six thou above the bore size the book specifies for a 20 thou overbore.
Bore gages were set using a gage block stack n jaws so I'm pretty confident in what I'm seeing from them. I'm going to speak with them on Monday about this but I've to say I'm sick to my stomach. Idk if I have the energy to "try again".
You are rolling the gauge to get lowest measurement correct?
I’m curious what someone in the know has to say about that can bearing. It should still oil but it does appear offset by the amount flipping it would have corrected.
Other than that, it’s been a while since I’ve built anything. If it were mine I woulda said “send it” a long time ago so I’m of no help to you.
Do you have telescope gage that you can compare with? What are they measuring?
Having the bearing caps machined and then line honed will fix that. But I'd try to get a better idea on the cylinders..how do they compare to each other?
I'd like to witness your technic. I find it odd that the main bearing bore are bigger when measured to the horizontal axis. If they were to stretch, they would not stretch in that direction.
The caps should be tightened to spec. The shop align honed the mains and to do that they'd have to have the caps torqued.
Originally Posted by Dan V
Do you have telescope gage that you can compare with? What are they measuring? Having the bearing caps machined and then line honed will fix that.
No telescoping gauge. I did double check the gauge block stack with the big Starrett calipers and it checks out.
Even if the stack was off the gauge is still showing over four thousandths of deviation between vertical and horizontal.
The mains were supposed to be lined honed already. They definitely have the texture of being honed, and that was a big chunk of the bill I paid.
Originally Posted by Dan V
I'd like to witness your technic. I find it odd that the main bearing bore are bigger when measured to the horizontal axis. If they were to stretch, they would not stretch in that direction.
Rock the gauge head in until it reads the lowest value. Rock back and forth again and make sure it repeats that value. I also do a little shimmy to make sure the centering plungers have found the true center.
For a reality check I measured that T444E block that I disassembled recently. I only did the first torque sequence on the cap and the readings were far far closer than the machined block
The caps should be tightened to spec. The shop align honed the mains and to do that they'd have to have the caps torqued.
I would not expect them to still be torqued when picking the block up. They might be but the shop could have loosened them back up too. This would need confirmed I think.
I would not expect them to still be torqued when picking the block up. They might be but the shop could have loosened them back up too. This would need confirmed I think.
Good point and I'll check today. The thing is though with the girdle on you have no access to the outer cap bolts. You'd have to take it completely off to loosen those bolts. I'd be surprised if they went to that effort vs leaving them tightened.
Plus I'd think that if they were loose the vertical measurement would come down not the horizontal.
@PriusLover It's been my experience when sending out for honing, that 1) We use it for bringing a hole to size in a hardened part. or) Super fine microfinish.
Honing can create a bell mouthed hole, depending on how the stones are dressed and how the hone (or part) is stroked. But .0044 out of round? Something isn't adding up.
But .0044 out of round? Something isn't adding up.
Yeah it's bizarre and I don't understand what could have possibly happened. They didn't machine the bottom of the caps or anything... don't see how just honing could result in this.
Went back and loosened n torqued all the mains bolts to spec. Caps are all in the proper order and direction. Here's the quick n dirty readings I took:
One interesting thing is that the out of roundness is far worse on caps one and five. Makes me wonder if the block was wobbling while it was being honed? Regardless of what caused the issue, the worst thing is that this wasn't caught when they checked after honing. Will be taking it by the shop tomorrow so they can measure n see for themselves.
