460 score
I figured I wouldn't get to sleep until I got some resolution on this. "My mind is a raging torrent, flooded with rivulets of thought, cascading into a waterfall of creative alternatives". Anyway, I did a bunch of measuring and calculating, and found that I need .106" of peel washer on the camshaft nose in order to lift the eccentric .010" off the cam gear. No problem, I already ordered the peel washers from McMaster Carr. Then I measured for clearance between the slightly raised eccentric to the inside of the timing cover. Got plenty of clearance there. And for OCD sake, I measured for clearance between the slinger and the inside of the timing cover. Plenty there too. The only thing I'll need to check for after I get the eccentric spaced out, is alignment with the fuel pump lever. I can sleep now. Where's my snuggle kitty?
I figured I wouldn't get to sleep until I got some resolution on this. "My mind is a raging torrent, flooded with rivulets of thought, cascading into a waterfall of creative alternatives". Anyway, I did a bunch of measuring and calculating, and found that I need .106" of peel washer on the camshaft nose in order to lift the eccentric .010" off the cam gear. No problem, I already ordered the peel washers from McMaster Carr. Then I measured for clearance between the slightly raised eccentric to the inside of the timing cover. Got plenty of clearance there. And for OCD sake, I measured for clearance between the slinger and the inside of the timing cover. Plenty there too. The only thing I'll need to check for after I get the eccentric spaced out, is alignment with the fuel pump lever. I can sleep now. Where's my snuggle kitty?


"Throw the slinger in the trash. When you torque the damper and the spacer crushes the slinger it will cup and touch the chain over time."
"The general consensus of the thread was don't use the oil slinger IF you aren't using the stock nylon timing gear that needed the slinger. You don't need it. Don't use it. If it gets pressed too tighly against the chain then you have metal floating around the motor. Just throw it away. You don't need it. I didn't use one and my motor is fine."
"The primary purpose of the disk is to sling oil onto the morse style timing set which required copious amount of oil to keep the nylon teeth from being destroyed."
We've been building the ford engines eliminating the slinger for 15 to 20 years with no issues."
"Throw the slinger in the trash. When you torque the damper and the spacer crushes the slinger it will cup and touch the chain over time."
"The general consensus of the thread was don't use the oil slinger IF you aren't using the stock nylon timing gear that needed the slinger. You don't need it. Don't use it. If it gets pressed too tighly against the chain then you have metal floating around the motor. Just throw it away. You don't need it. I didn't use one and my motor is fine."
"The primary purpose of the disk is to sling oil onto the morse style timing set which required copious amount of oil to keep the nylon teeth from being destroyed."
We've been building the ford engines eliminating the slinger for 15 to 20 years with no issues."
There's lots of opinions on the slinger's original intended purpose. As best as I can tell, it has at least three purposes. Of those three purposes, only one is eliminated by installing a modern timing set. And that's the need to oil the nylon cam gear teeth. The other two reasons for the slinger are still there. Preventing excess oil from overwhelming the front seal. And throwing oil onto the fuel pump eccentric. If it's an EFI build, then you can eliminate one of those by not installing a fuel pump eccentric. But the front seal is still there.
I could be missing something. I'm certainly not an expert engine builder. But I've done a lot of research, measuring, and calculations on this, and will continue to monitor it during final assembly. So far, for my setup at least, I can see no reason to delete the slinger. And, I'll run this engine on a test stand and a dyno prior to installing it, which will give me opportunity to delete the slinger if it causes a problem. After initial run, and after dyno, I do plan to remove the fuel pump, and run a bore scope inside to check for marks on the slinger.
I'm afraid the internet is one of the least reliable sources for Information these days.
I'm afraid the internet is one of the least reliable sources for Information these days.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I'm glad I decided to slow down this build. There's a lot of little things, like the oil pan reinforcement rails, that I probably wouldn't have gotten around to if I had rushed it. And I like oil pan support rails. They'll let me scrunch the pan down to the gasket compression stops, without bending the pan flanges. Another little detail thing I think I'll do, is to weld on a big filler neck with thread in cap on one valve cover. It's not a necessity but it'll make oil changes easier. The baffles in those valve covers won't allow for a funnel. And it'll look neater'n *****.

Weekend finds

https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/tl...354445253.html
https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/pt...356058515.html
https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/gr...362931180.html

Weekend finds

https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/tl...354445253.html
https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/pt...356058515.html
https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/gr...362931180.html













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