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The discussion about heat soaked starters and thermal management generally has me wondering about whether it might be useful to start thinking about this more broadly than wrapping this part or that. Our trucks have this massive frontal area that some have likened to a barn door. We push a whole lot of air as we proceed down the road. Why not redirect a chunk of that air around the headers with air ducting that directs cooler outside air across the headers and out toward the highway? Those who use fender exit headers are already doing this albeit in a slightly different way.
The discussion about heat soaked starters and thermal management generally has me wondering about whether it might be useful to start thinking about this more broadly than wrapping this part or that. Our trucks have this massive frontal area that some have likened to a barn door. We push a whole lot of air as we proceed down the road. Why not redirect a chunk of that air around the headers with air ducting that directs cooler outside air across the headers and out toward the highway? Those who use fender exit headers are already doing this albeit in a slightly different way.
I've been thinking of doing just that for my duraspark module, but I would be worried about ducting down low getting ripped out by stuff on the road or in a field.
You guys are on to something. There is plenty of room to route some intake duct to blow air on the ICM and starter. I may do that to the starter if I have issues. As for the ICM, that's the first thing I tossed in the garbage on every dent I've owned. Well, to be accurate, the ICM is still under the hood of Brokefoot, but it's just there for ballast.
Did you guys keep, or delete the oil slinger when you built your 460's? I deleted it on my 400, and the front seal has seeped ever since. I will put it back in when I pull the engine.
Anyway, I've seen posts on 460 forum how double roller timing chains can dig into the oil slinger. I checked mine, and I've got .052" clearance between the chain and oil slinger. Anyone see a problem with using the oil slinger here?
Did you guys keep, or delete the oil slinger when you built your 460's? I deleted it on my 400, and the front seal has seeped ever since. I will put it back in when I pull the engine.
Anyway, I've seen posts on 460 forum how double roller timing chains can dig into the oil slinger. I checked mine, and I've got .052" clearance between the chain and oil slinger. Anyone see a problem with using the oil slinger here?
I install the oil slinger and think the timing gear cover seal leak is more a result of positive crank case pressure increases than anything else and that contained environment at the front of the motor. It's just a poor design. Me thinks if you were to thread a barbed fitting into the top of the timing chain cover and run a hose back to the PVC system you'd probably have far less timing chain gear cover seal leaks.
I install the oil slinger and think the timing gear cover seal leak is more a result of positive crank case pressure increases than anything else and that contained environment at the front of the motor. It's just a poor design. Me thinks if you were to thread a barbed fitting into the top of the timing chain cover and run a hose back to the PVC system you'd probably have far less timing chain gear cover seal leaks.
That's definitely something to consider. I love modifications! And it shouldn't be any trouble to tie it in with my PCV fitting at the valve cover. Gonna wargame that tonight. Thanks, Red!
Scotty (Mad Porter) on 460 forum, told me to throw the slinger in the trash. Said that when I torque the balance, the slinger will cup, then contact the chain. I certainly trust his word, however, I think I'll put it to the test. This evening I'll mock up the slinger, sleeve, and then torque the balancer on. See if it warps the slinger.
Well, I mocked it up with the balancer torqued in place. I can still easily get .052" of feeler gauges in there. I'm gonna install the slinger. Even if it had rubbed, I'da used a dimple die in a press to alter the slinger, so it wouldn't contact the chain. I don't like front and rear main seal leaks!
I'm totally with you there Mike. They can ruin hours and hours of work as you well know. Many are related to positive crank case pressure and the higher the rpm the higher the pressure.
I'm witchyoo. But this engine better not have a lot of blow by once the rings have had time to seat. Since I gapped the rings myself, I'll assume a ring broke or something else is seriously wrong if there's excessive blow by / crankcase pressure. I'll be running a PCV valve from one valve cover to the front 3/8" nipple on the front of the carburetor. And an intake filter on the other valve cover. I tell you something I've always wanted to do, is to make an exhaust routed crankcase evac system. But there's really no need for it on a daily driver type rig. Just a silly idea.
I'm witchyoo. But this engine better not have a lot of blow by once the rings have had time to seat. Since I gapped the rings myself, I'll assume a ring broke or something else is seriously wrong if there's excessive blow by / crankcase pressure. I'll be running a PCV valve from one valve cover to the front 3/8" nipple on the front of the carburetor. And an intake filter on the other valve cover. I tell you something I've always wanted to do, is to make an exhaust routed crankcase evac system. But there's really no need for it on a daily driver type rig. Just a silly idea.
Just the movement of the crank, rockers, and the timing set create enough turbulence to build pressure within the motor. Keeping an eye on it is worth consideration IMHO.
Red, I just thought of another couple of reasons to install the slinger. If the slinger isn't installed, then the balancer will seat farther. Granted, the slinger is only .027" thick, but pulley & belt alignment is pretty critical. And the other reason, look at the photo. The slinger is directly inline with the fuel pump eccentric. That part could definitely benefit from having oil slung onto it, and suffer from lack of. That's the original fuel pump eccentric. And the original oil slinger. The eccentric is in good shape, but you can plainly see wear marks. Imagine what it'd look like if the assembly line forgot to install the slinger.
I'm glad this has come up, because it reminded me of something. I've been using the original eccentric for mock up only. I forgot I need to order a new one. The double roller timing set I'm using doesn't allow the two piece eccentric to float. I guess I need to get a one piece eccentric, and a longer cam dowel. I've also considered using a peel washer to lift the two piece eccentric off the cam gear, so the outside piece can float.
Red, are you using a double roller timing set? If so, what type of fuel pump eccentric are you running?
I'm glad this has come up, because it reminded me of something. I've been using the original eccentric for mock up only. I forgot I need to order a new one. The double roller timing set I'm using doesn't allow the two piece eccentric to float. I guess I need to get a one piece eccentric, and a longer cam dowel. I've also considered using a peel washer to lift the two piece eccentric off the cam gear, so the outside piece can float.
Red, are you using a double roller timing set? If so, what type of fuel pump eccentric are you running?
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The assembly is looking good Brother 
