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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
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Old Oct 2, 2021 | 04:52 AM
  #541  
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You going to have your special "turkey hunting" hat on when you fire it up? I double dog dare ya...and take a pic or stick your head in the light off video.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2021 | 10:16 AM
  #542  
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Originally Posted by 77&79F250
You going to have your special "turkey hunting" hat on when you fire it up? I double dog dare ya...and take a pic or stick your head in the light off video.
You mean Natalia's turkey hunting hat?
 
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Old Oct 2, 2021 | 10:41 AM
  #543  
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Did any of you other 460 swap guys, that have manual transmission, and L&L flywheel, experience flywheel ring gear to bellhousing clearance issue? I didn't hear it when I tested the starter, but when I turned the crank by hand I could hear it. The bellhousing I'm using on the test stand looks a little different from the one in my truck. I'll definitely check this when I install the engine in the truck.

Anyway, there's two humps on each side of bellhousing. The aft side of the ring gear touched them. Ring gear wasn't damaged. It was an easy fix, I just used an angle grinder with a flap disc. Damn I hate grinding cast iron. The dust gets all over me and everything else, and the smell reminds me of things I don't like to recall. And yes, I did it outside. In retrospect, as crazy as it initially sounds, it may have been better to grind the ring gear, since the issue was on the opposite side from starter. But I'll make that call when I install the engine on the other bellhousing. After the fix, my paranoid side pulled out a dial indicator to make sure the flywheel and ring gear didn't get askew. It's good.


st
 
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Old Oct 2, 2021 | 12:43 PM
  #544  
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I had 351M bell housing I picked up, and traded someone an auto block plate for their manual (had to trim the center a little). I had purchased a after market block plate ,it was ticker than oem,,,so I went oem and i think I had to grind down those nubbs if i remeber correctly
 
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Old Oct 2, 2021 | 01:29 PM
  #545  
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Originally Posted by lafermedavid

I had 351M bell housing I picked up, and traded someone an auto block plate for their manual (had to trim the center a little). I had purchased a after market block plate ,it was ticker than oem,,,so I went oem and i think I had to grind down those nubbs if i remeber correctly
I was thinking along those lines too or even if needed if it would work to double two thinner ones as long as your pilot was deep enough in. I guess I never realized how close the ring gear actually is to the inside of the bell.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2021 | 04:32 PM
  #546  
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Im pretty sure I had to grind those nubbs
 
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Old Oct 2, 2021 | 06:58 PM
  #547  
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"Grind the nubs".

The funny thing is, I'da never know about it if I built the engine then stabbed it into the truck, instead of putting on the engine stand. Or worse, stabbed it into the truck, then rotate the engine by hand to line up for distributor install, and hear it then! That woulda sucked. Turns out, it clearanced itself just fine and wouldn't have hurt to leave it, but imagine hearing that after the engine was installed. Oh that would be bad. Test stand has already paid dividends, and I haven't even started the engine on it. Yipppeeeeeee! I gotta get more disco lights now.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2021 | 07:22 PM
  #548  
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Originally Posted by ranger140892
"Grind the nubs".

The funny thing is, I'da never know about it if I built the engine then stabbed it into the truck, instead of putting on the engine stand. Or worse, stabbed it into the truck, then rotate the engine by hand to line up for distributor install, and hear it then! That woulda sucked. Turns out, it clearanced itself just fine and wouldn't have hurt to leave it, but imagine hearing that after the engine was installed. Oh that would be bad. Test stand has already paid dividends, and I haven't even started the engine on it. Yipppeeeeeee! I gotta get more disco lights now.
From the beginning that's why I was always more interested in the test stand build then the 460
 
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Old Oct 2, 2021 | 09:48 PM
  #549  
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There are two different 351M/400 bell housings. 1977/78 and 1979 before serial number DG0,001 (Marked: D7TA-7505-AD). 1979 from serial number DG0,001, 1980/82.

D7TZ-7007-A .. 351M/400 Engine Rear Plate: 1977/79 F100/350 - 1978/82 Bronco - 1980/82 F150/350. ( Got this from Bills referance )
 
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Old Oct 2, 2021 | 10:13 PM
  #550  
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Originally Posted by redroad
From the beginning that's why I was always more interested in the test stand build then the 460
Me too actually. If someone dug deep into my brain housing group, they'd probably find that the 502 has been a devious project to justify my desire to build a test stand. I think taking the engine from the stand and installing it in the truck will be a bit anticlimactic. But hey, we all gotta give validation to the test stand. It's stated purpose is to find faults before an engine gets installed. And there ya go, it exposed a fault before the engine was even fired up.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2021 | 10:14 PM
  #551  
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Originally Posted by lafermedavid
There are two different 351M/400 bell housings. 1977/78 and 1979 before serial number DG0,001 (Marked: D7TA-7505-AD). 1979 from serial number DG0,001, 1980/82.

D7TZ-7007-A .. 351M/400 Engine Rear Plate: 1977/79 F100/350 - 1978/82 Bronco - 1980/82 F150/350. ( Got this from Bills referance )
Now you tell me.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2021 | 08:30 AM
  #552  
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I had mine on a stand made by stubby fab works (I think) with my tranny bolted to it,,,,,,the stand supported all that weight.......had the tranny rebuilt while out.Was able to rotate by crank,to make sure all was proper....I kept researching this site for oem # and more.......wish i would have gotten some pics while on that stand,which I had on a steel dolly that I could push that Beast around with one finger...tranny and all.....Loaded it up and took it to a friends home with engine brake in setup ,,,,,,immediately found oil leak coming out of oil filter rotation setup (o ring ) punched out a cork one and broke the motor in,,,,,,ran between 2400 rpm to 2800 rpm for a 1/2 hr,,,,,,,,,shut it down for 20 minuets and then ran it again Drank a coke ( I used Bradd Penn brake in oil) went home removed oil filter opened it up to inspect clean oil
 
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Old Oct 3, 2021 | 08:50 AM
  #553  
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Originally Posted by lafermedavid
I had mine on a stand made by stubby fab works (I think) with my tranny bolted to it,,,,,,the stand supported all that weight.......had the tranny rebuilt while out.Was able to rotate by crank,to make sure all was proper....I kept researching this site for oem # and more.......wish i would have gotten some pics while on that stand,which I had on a steel dolly that I could push that Beast around with one finger...tranny and all.....Loaded it up and took it to a friends home with engine brake in setup ,,,,,,immediately found oil leak coming out of oil filter rotation setup (o ring ) punched out a cork one and broke the motor in,,,,,,ran between 2400 rpm to 2800 rpm for a 1/2 hr,,,,,,,,,shut it down for 20 minuets and then ran it again Drank a coke
I never heard of Stubby Fab Works. I just looked at their site. They have some cool stuff. Thanks for reminding me that I need to build an engine dolly in case I transport the 502 back to Diamond Racing for dyno testing. Unlike Stubby's cradles, I need mine to accept engine mounts. If I build the dolly to accept the 460 block w/ swap mounts, that'll make it also work with 335, and Windsor engines, w/ standard motor mounts. And I've got a fresh built 302 short block on another build stand, and a 400 coming outa the truck. Both of which will need cradles for storage and/or transportation at some point.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2021 | 08:57 AM
  #554  
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engine cradle

I called and talked to stuby,small fabricator. Check his picture section out, quite impressive. And his prices were very fair.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2021 | 09:17 AM
  #555  
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I did look at his picture gallery. Good stuff
 
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