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So only 0.0035" of a spread. I used my magnetic dial indicator and cleaned the block and piston tops with a scotch brite pad and carb cleaner to get a good clean surface. I went around the cylinder's twice to confirm my measurements. So in looking at the specs for protrusion (0.0354"), I have roughly 0.009" to play with. And since my valves are at the deeper end of the valve recession specs also, these numbers are encouraging. Of course I'm not going to tell any machine shop to deck the block 0.009". That would be a fools errand. But, my numbers are encouraging that if the block DOES need a couple of thousandths taken off of it. I will have the clearance I need to not worry about having piston decked or fly cut. B.
I'm not a fan of using a magnetic dial indicator stand while realizing the International manual says to do so. Your numbers have a grimace on my face. I did try the dial indicator method since I never used that before and didn't care for it. I found it was too easy to have variation compared to the piston to deck or deck to the piston (different holders).
I've seen more numbers in videos than what I put in my spreadsheet, but they correlated more to David's and the "lightly decked" motor values. David reworked his motor in a thread here. If I were you, I would recheck those with another method, which does not require buying any tool; you can use a 6" rule and feeler gauges going across the tops inline with the wrist pins.
I hope your numbers are correct, but your values align with Zep's, who shaved the pistons. I labeled the one column as Dev(ation), confusing to anyone but me; I used deviation to the max protrusion.
If you looked at my videos and more the pictorials over decades, I find some issues by the book. Not that I’m perfect. I really don’t understand why they showed that for piston protrusion when for valve recession they showed a flat bar and feeler gauges, which from a machinists perspective would be more accurate.
Any discrepancy on the deck surface translates by multiples due to the leverage of the dial indicator arm. One doesn’t have to buy an expensive jig to use. A 6” bar of aluminum 3/4” square, some drilling and a tap gets you there as I shied in my video. Or steel or hardwood. Wood is not going to warp during the time of calibration to measurement, even if does during storage.
Shaving the piston tops within reason IMO will not be an issue. At home I calculated the change in grams for every 0.001” removed. It’s not much but I can’t give you the number while in the middle of trimming Christmas trees. I’m not one who thinks these motors are a great candidate for balancing. The numbers I came up with are much lower than the typical piston to piston variation I’ve measured with non OE pistons.
Mine are worked to 0.028” protrusion, but I’ll leave how until 20k miles. 🤫
Jack, that's why I went around the block twice confirming my number from the dial indicator. I was looking for consistency between my first go around and the second. I was very careful to make sure everything was clean. The thumb screws on my setup were nice and snug and I kept the pivot points as short as possible. I am fairly confident my numbers are accurate. It was getting late in the day, so I did not have time to use a straight edge and feeler gauges.
I dropped the block off at a machine shop this morning. Now to wait for them to strip-clean-measure and report back to me on what she needs and doesn't need. I really wanted Asheville to do my block. But funds are tight and shipping was just going to be something I could not swallow right now. They have been great at contributing to this thread and I give them many kuddos. Maybe next time. B.
Mine is a wild card as it went through the reman process. David’s was OE, and you can find other OE that were in his range. The one thing I don’t care for is there is not a range, just a max. And from International or Ford, there is no spec (that I’ve found) to bar the main bore and measure the height of the deck.
As long as the shop is good, it can be worked anywhere. Block and head machining isn’t rocket science, it just takes care.
So, I ordered a Colt Stage 2 cam. Bought a set of Ford OEM lifters. A new oil cooler has already arrived. I have new Fel-Pro head gaskets and a gasket set for everything else. Got a few parts to re-new my A/C. I'm going to run a comb through the condenser fins to straighten those and repaint that. All that's left is to buy the parts for the reciprocating assembly after the machine shop tells me what I need.
Now to move onto rehabbing the A/C system with a new compressor clutch, receiver/dryer and orifice tube. Then start installing some gauges to help monitor the engine after all this work. And clean the engine compartment. B.
Maybe this is redundant for you. I've used every version of piston ring compressor out there. When you find the bore size, get the tapered ring sleeve, it is so much easier and foolproof. You can always resell on eBay.
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