That IS an option Jack for sure. B.

 

Within the service manual, it has the description of the ball hone International states to use. Somewhere in my notes, I have the supplier for about $50. I didn't remove my pistons, but to this day, I keep thinking about still doing that, reestablish the honing and new rings. You would basically be doing exactly what I've done in my engine series, but you would not have to replace the crank. I could have left my crank in, even though it was off in the reman grind. You've torn down the motor, and you seem to know what you are doing. Looking back at what has happened to your truck, it seems it was more of a cam failure - I don't remember if you had puking before you did the heads. The skirt of that piston did not look as bad as I was expecting.

Yes, it would not be a "rebuild" with new machining, and you would have to check the wrist pin wear. In addition, you would have to punch out the oil rail core plugs to clean them to make sure there was no lifter/lobe debris. And all the other oil ports.

 

Yeah, my truck never had any puking issues. Although, when I did pop the heads off this last winter, the head gasket integrity was on the verge of being compromised. The piston does not seem to show any signs of excessive combustion temps. The wrist pin on the one I did pull feels very tight, no detectable slop. I really don't want to do a ring and bearing job. I hate cleaning old pistons (LOL). I would at the least like to have new rod bolts and have the rods resized. The crank journal on this cylinder looks perfect. I would in fact BE surprised if there was an issue with the crank. I guess the rings did all they could. Maybe that over fueling issue I had three years ago weakened their tension. And they finally gave out. It's a head scratch-er.

I have rebuilt a many an engine in my years around the old block. This would be a great time to not only clean the oil passages but to tap and use pipe plugs at the ends of the oil galleries. I'm, going to make two more calls to other shops in the area to see if they have done these engines before. If not then I guess I re-ring or send it to Asheville. It's just a LOT of work to pull this beast and I really want to start fresh. B.

 

Just talking options....

 

Oh absolutely. I love options. Even though I have been around for some years, I am still learning. And I value the experience of others. Thank you. B.

 

Is there actually a specification / description from the manufacturer on how oilrails / oil passages should be cleaned so that nothing is forgotten?

 

Part 3 of the manual I posted above, pages 213 and 214.

 

When you stop learning, you die. However, the body may live for another 10-20 years.

It's one of the reasons I'm learning how to do videos, a technical challenge of learning new things and improving on what you've learned. Doing these in the manner I am, really takes a lot of work - at least for me.

 

I heard back from Asheville. They WILL reman my block and return it to me. I DID find a machine shop in Stockton, Dynacron who did my heads, that will do the machine work on my block and re-con the rods. But, they won't do the final assembly. And, if the crank needs to be ground they send that off to a shop in Sacramento. And, if the wrist pin bushings need to be replaced they have to send the rods to another shop in Stockton. Which, turns out to be B & R Machine. Whom I have already called and they told me they won't do my block. SMH. The gent I spoke to at Dynacron told me the owner of B & R is getting ready to retire and is "cherry picking" the work he wants to do. Just my bloody luck.

I did, however, find a really sturdy solid 2x4 pallet at work today that would be the right size to ship a block. Magically it found it's way from the dumpster to my trunk. How that occurred is beyond me. So, now to crunch some numbers to see which way would be the best way to proceed. B.

 

So, if I buy a basic rebuild kit from DDPM, add local machining costs, plus buy a Colt cam and OEM lifters, I'm looking at 2970.00 give or take a few bucks. I already have a new LPOP and oil cooler plus all my gaskets. But, I have to pray the local machine shop will be thorough in machining my block and checking piston protrusion to make sure my valves will clear. And hope the pistons don't need machining for valve clearance. Which would add cost. But then I would save 640 bucks for shipping. Decisions. Need to sleep on it tonight. B.

 

That's interesting. My machine shop wouldn't do assembly either.
You can check piston protrusion yourself, unless you have the pistons out already.
I have my engine completely disassembled except for cam bearings. I'm hoping the machine shop will replace them.

 

Cam bearings are pretty easy. Some people tap them into place, I removed and pulled them in with a lead screw.

 

I talked to another shop today. I had no idea they actually had a full machine shop really. They rebuilt my turbo last year. A tip from a customer today lead me to call them. They are a really well known business in Stockton with a good reputation. They can do all the machine work on my block, but they won't assemble it. They stated they are not certified for International engines, only Cummins. Since when did machine shops need to be certified to assemble an engine? Is this an actual thing? I wonder if that's why some shops are skipping the assembly process? They were not able to give me a price though, as there are too many variable, like if the mains need to be line bored, or the block decked, or the cylinders machined etc. Which I guess makes sense. I can assemble the short block. Even check piston protrusion as I have a magnetic base with dial indicator. Press of/on the cam gear. File fit rings. Etc. Been there, done that. Just not on a diesel engine before. I think I might do that. It would just be a bummer when checking piston height to find out the pistons need machining. Hum.. B.

 

Where is your shop? Cam bearings should be easy peasy for any machine shop worth their salt. B.

 

Many shops won't assemble so it keeps them out of any implied warranty.

I've got videos on installing the cam bearings and checking piston protrusion.