Well, didn't get much done. WAS going to install the top end today. BUT, when I was inspecting the rocker boxes, I found the seal was damaged on one of them. And of course, on a Sunday afternoon no one has crap in stock. So got the gaskets ordered and spent the day cleaning the starter, misc bolts, and installing the EGT probes. Got both exhaust manifolds drilled and tapped. B.






REMEMBER, when taping pipe threads DON'T run your tap all the way through. The key to sealing pipe threads is their tappered threads. I ran my tap in until about 1/4" of the tap was STILL outside of the manifold. Worked out perfect actually. When in doubt, tap a little and try your fitting. If you need to tap more you can. BUT, once you tap to a certain point there is NO going back.

 

So, a question;

When re-installing the engine what is the easiest method for the motor mounts? Install the top portion to the block and leave the isolators on the frame? Or Install the top portion WITH the isolators and install the engine that way?

Also, on another forum there is a big head gasket comparison write up. I didn't read the entire thread word for word. But there seems to be some curiosity as to why Fel-Pro made the steam vent holes in their head gaskets so small. I don't have the factory head gaskets to compare too. But, I think is was to force more water up through the back of the heads and back towards the front of the engine. I'm not an engineer so I'm just surmising. But it makes sense. B

 

I would slide the engine over the crossmember then lift the engine enough to slide each motor mount in and then tighten 8 motor mount bolts to block and leave the bottom studs alone until you get the flywheel nuts done. This way you have wiggle room to manipulate the engine to stab your flywheel to torque converter. That’s how I did it, not sure if it’s correct but it worked for me. Also, disconnect the front drive shaft so the tranny moves more freely.

 

The cast holes in the block and heads are large to the casting cores. The orifices in the gasket are designed to control the amount of coolant and prevent air bubbles from getting trapped in the block's jacket. It's common to have water come up into the head in the back, flow across the head to the front, and be pulled by the water pump. The 6.4L gasket design uses larger ports at the lower end but has a larger water pump than the 6.0L later design.

 

Will the 6.4 water pump work on the 6.0? B

 

So... Keep the upper and lower pieces together. And AFTER the motor is in, slide the units in and attach to the block. AFTER everything is mated, drop in down onto the frame and do the nuts from the bottom. Correct? B.

 

Nope, it won't..

 

Well, I stoned the decks. The machine machine marks aren't as deep as they look in previous pics. I got a nice even pattern around the cylinders. So I'm going with it. Put the heads on with new head gaskets, new seals on the bottom of the rocker boxes, ran home the ARP studs, applied ARP lube to the threads/washers/nuts, got the rock arms all in place with the shorter push rods, and torqued the hell out of everything. Boy, that 210 pounds is stout!!! Installed my injectors. Replaced the oil rails nipple cups and seals with the HHC units. Installed the oil rails. And sealed it up with freshly painted valve covers. B.










These were puzzling to me. I kept looking at them in my gasket set and wondering what in the world did they go to. I finally figured it out when I was cleaning my valve covers.


The seals were for the bottom of the CCV system on the driver's side valve cover (DUH).

 

This looks good. Did you screw the studs in all the way to the bottom of the block thread, or did you turn them back half a turn?

 

They are in finger tight. Is that a problem? B.

 

Ok, Spent some time on Friday working on loose ends before trying to reinstall my engine. I changed out the receiver dryer and orifice tube. And replaced the clutch assembly on the compressor. The new hose assembly going to the compressor did not have new o-rings for the compressor side. So I had to order those. It was a two day wait. WTH? B.


Remove this bolt first. You will need a way of holding the clutch so it doesn't spin when you do. There is some blue loctite on the threads so plan on that.


The clutch plate just slides off of the compressor shaft. It's splined and greased from the factory. So it SHOULD come right off.


Here's the old spacer the factory used to set the clutch air gap. It was 0.035".


Remove the snap ring before you try and remove the old coil assembly. The coil assembly is lightly pressed onto the front of the compressor. So a little light taping on the backside of the coil and it will pop off.


Self explanatory.


And here is the old clutch/pulley/bearing assembly. The new Four Seasons assembly comes with a new bolt, snap ring, and various spacers to set the air gap.


VERY gently use a rubber mallet to tap the new coil assembly back onto the front of the compressor. Make sure the coil connector is timed in the same spot as the old coil. Otherwise this will not install correctly.


The new pulley and bearing assembly slides right back onto the front of the compressor. Then you can install the new snap ring.



Then, using your various spacers, you can reinstall the clutch plate and set your air gap. Spec is 0.018" to 0.030" for new parts.


I ended up using a 0.035" spacer to set the air gap at 0.024". Just perfect.

 

Here's the tool I used to hold the A/C clutch to remove the bolt. It is adjustable for various clutch sizes. And is a real life saver. They can be had from your popular tool supplier and or ebay or other sources. B.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/27347109261...Cclp%3A2334524

 

Ok, lets try and update this a bit. Here are some pics of the engine assembled. B.



I thought I could re-install the engine with the up pipes in place. Boy was I mistaken. So, during installation I had to remove them. And a nose down attitude gave more clearance on the oil pan to get it over the cross member under the engine.

 

Ok, this is her sitting in my truck. B.



You can see my yellow jumper that I used to get the engine primed. At this point though I was using it along with a remote starter switch to bump the engine over to get my torque converter nuts all in place and tightened down.

 

Getting closer. Got my main grounds cleaned and sprayed with protect-ant. B.






Added the driver's side ground from the driver's side battery negative post.


And tied the same driver's side negative post to the PCM and FICM grounds.


FICM ground tied in.


I bought the AmsOil engine oil by-pass mounting brackets and moved to to behind the front bumper. Originally, when I installed the by-pass system, AmsOil did not have these brackets back in the day. As such, it was originally mounted between the passenger side battery and the radiator right over the A/C lines and Hot side CAC tube. As such, the filter wore through the first layer of one of the A/C hoses going to the condenser. Which, I ended up changing as this build was being done to prevent a future hose failure. I had the oil hoses made up locally.