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So much good information in this thread.
Thanks to everyone who contributed.
204K mile truck so wondering about lifter and cam condition will be the Boogeyman that keeps me up at night.
OIL is the key!! Proper oil, proper oil pressure, proper oil temperature!!!
The 6.4 is a more robust block and heads, although it uses the same 4-bolt girdle design, which is stout in either case. Maybe "robust block" is an overstatement. Guys who used the early torque specs for 6.4L ARP studs were cracking the water jackets, and many backed down. Even the 6.0 20mm blocks with improvements in the head bolt water jacket area are still somewhat questionable to higher forces. I know of one guy who cracked the area with his 6.0 block.
So.... Stick to ARP's specs for bolt torque then it sounds like it. B.
I really need to talk more to ARP than I had in the past. My feelings about this situation are based on not only the Powestrokes but in other situations like the LS, other engines.... they do not do any studies about what the platform can handle, the consequences to the gaskets, or any other angle. Instead, they look at the bolt size, offer a higher grade bolt, and give the torque value of the stud at the typical engineering "clamping load" value for their offering. If the enthusiast crowd had problems, the crowd backs off on the tension, and subsequently, ARP does so with their torque spec. That's been documented in the past. I had an interesting discussion with a guy who is on Facebook and did a YT video about LS TTY and studs. He works in Motorsports and has what he calls "designed a TTY bolt that can be reused." To me, that's missing the point. He has ARP nuts that have cracked.
Anyway, the horrendous thread about the 6.4 water jacket failure. But there are different studs involved and the variability of each person doing the work. There were a lot of things thrown at different people in the thread. It's a crap show.
I'm stalled (more than normal) on my engine, trying to decide if I want to spend my own money on getting OE bolts tested. It's hundreds of dollars to get done. It's not that I think ARP studs are bad, but I'm a guy who likes TTY methodology, and I think using torque is a step backward. On the other hand, if I get run over the day after I put the engine back in the truck, my wife trying to sell it without studs would be in a world of hurt because of the state of affairs.
Ok, did a dry fitment of the crank today with plastigauge to check the mains. The mains are at 0.003". Spec is 0.0008" to 0.0034". So should I run with it? Get under sized bearings? Or have the crank ground for under size? Thanks, B.
I don’t know why KDD has an out of spec value, unless it was found better for dyno or pulls. But you are in spec and should be fine. That’s about where I am. More clearance uses up more oil volume, technically. With my displaced bearing, I most likely had a good loss, so if I had ever demanded high torque/hp, I probably would have had a slight starvation of the HPOP system.
I took the crank back out, removed the bearings, stuffed a bunch of rags into the block, and got out a brand new 8" fine grit stone. With lots of oil I did a quick touch up on the block mating surfaces and the same with the girdle. Cleaned everything up nice and good and tried it again. Now it's roughly 0.0025". So there must have been a little defformation on those surfaces or some grit I missed the first time. So I little happier now.
Got the piston oiler tubes installed, got the cam sprocket pressed off the old and cam and onto the new cam. Greased up the cam and got it installed. Greased up the main bearings and installed the crank for the last time. Got the branch tubes sitting in place. Installed the rear timing cover and a new rear main seal. Re-installed the cam and crank sensors. That was enough for the day. Now to get the block matted to my engine stand and think about installing the pistons. B.
I believe it's in my first crank install video; I dressed the bedplate too when I found a burr. It really doesn't take that much time to assemble, as you know from other engines. Now, if you want to document it with video, don't like the video, redo it all, then don't like the crank .... well, I could go on.
What are you using for assembly lube and break-in oil?
Jack, The heads come in 18mm and 20mm
They have an upgrade kit to take a a block that is 18mm to 20mm. You get exchange rocker boxes and clamps for under $300 if I recall
what was covered in the phone call today. They are going to check my build notes and let me know what dowel size block that is coming.
Then if they are sending an 18mm I just keep my stuff and if it is a 20mm them I will do the upgrade.
Good to know and hear Sean. You would think they would ask that before they shipped it to you though. The block upgrade kit should just be a set of dowels as we talked about.
Sean,
White engine assembly lube and moly lube. Depending on what the part is. Plus blue loctite on some bolts, like the cam plate and flywheel bolts. The crank shaft adapter got red loctite on the back side where it attached to the crank shaft and the bolts got blue loctite. I bought four gallons of Driven oil for the first run. After that, I have not made a decision on which oil to run. And I got four 5 quart jugs on Mercon LV for the transmission, as I did the pan/filter upgrade to it last week and drained the torque convertor. Changed the front pump seal at the same time along with the toilet paper filter. B
PS
Thanks Jack for the reminder. Yes I did red loctite on the cam sprocket when I pressed it on too.
I didn't answer the question. I used the assembly lube and motor oil shown in my videos. Loctite on only the bolts I viewed as most critical and bearing mount on the cam sprocket.
Yesterdays work. For those wondering, you can use a 15/64 drill bit to locate and hold your camshaft when installing the crank shaft. The bit goes through that hole in the sprocket and into a corresponding hole in the block to locate the cam. B.
A 2" 3/4" drive socket works perfectly to install the cam shaft sprocket.
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