Did you check the piston cooling tubs? One of mine was clogged.

 

I'm also someone who likes to lube, but with HEUI engines I'm concerned if the grease in the injectors could cause problems (just in case some of it gets into the HPO system...might it make more sense to use a high viscosity oil for the engine assembly?.....just a thought....

 

For me Hartwig, I'm not using mass quantity. I brush on a light coat, then cover with oil. But can't say one way or the other about the injectors.

 

I most certainly did CPB1. Several times and blowing both directions. After a lifter failure, I wanted to make darn sure those things were clean. B.

 

More pics from yesterday. Got more work done today. Soaked new lifters in fresh oil for several hours, then installed them. Got the oil cooler installed. Got the front cover installed, Installed a new LPOP and front seal. Those pics to come. B.






Cam sprocket and plate right after I got it pressed apart.

 

Your all over it B.
Nice work.
Thanks for sharing.

 

You're welcome Chuck. I'm hoping the pics and info will help others who are working on their rigs, or help someone make the decision to do their own rebuild versus a reman. I admit I was intimidated by the job at first. But now that I have dug into it, it's not that much different than any other engine. Just a few little details one needs to pay attention too. But if you have the engine manual PDF's, it is easy to do.

Question,
My gasket kit does not have the o-ring for the replacement STC fitting assembly. So I ordered a re-seal kit. BUT, should I replace go ahead and replace the STC upgraded fitting also? Or do those not fail? B.

 

Nope, no different.

 

Well, got the seal kit for my HPOP and got it reinstalled along with the cover. Got my new oil cooler installed along with the oil filter base and a new oil cooler by-pass valve. Time to move on to assembling the pistons and rods. That darn ARP cone piston installer is on back order for God knows how long. Some places are saying the first part of September, while others are not expecting them until Christmas time. Old School wind up ring compressor for the future save!!! AND, talk about back order. The AmsOil EaBP1--EA for the bypass oiling system is also on back order until September. Jesus!!! Really??? I did get the new style filter mount bracket installed behind the front bumper. Bought those from BPD. I will load pics of that soon. But need to get hoses made up for that now. If it's not one thing, it's another. SMH. B.

 

I have an ARP piston installer sleeve for 20 over pistons that works beautifully (I broke two sets of rings trying to use the Lisle install tool...) Razzi/Toreador Diesel is borrowing it

the ARP install tool and a few other things...he might be willing to rent it out for me...
I used Clevite assembly lube on bearings and Schaeffer’s motor oil in a squirt can for piston install. I also used the drill bit alignment trick and a framing square instead of the Motorcraft alignment tool for the crank. Sorry for scattered replies, I was catching up on this thread and throwing in my two cents!

 

LOL, no problem SmackDaddy. I'm using Lubriplate bearing grease on the bearings and wrist pins and Delo 400 Diesel engine oil on the cylinders and rings. Going smoothly right now. Got two pistons in using my old ring compressor. Easy Peasy. Checking the bearing clearance and piston protrusion here in a minute. The machine shop said they took 0.003" off the decks. My heads had 0.003" off of their decks. In real math (none of this 2+2=5 crap) that's 0.006" less piston to head clearance. So we will see shortly how close I'm going to be. B.

 

Pistons suck up gasket height, but it's the valve recession that starts to become really important.

Stock or reduced height pistons?

It looks like you painted your aluminum, too.

 

Well, I put in a piston assembly on each side. Piston protrusion on the left side (DS) is 0.028". The right side (PS) is 0.032". A difference of 0.004" between each side. Hum.... Is this biased difference possible even in a factory untouched block? I don't know how the machine shop could have made this mistake in deck height when they machined the decks. Unless the machinist wasn't paying attention. But all of their other work thus far has been good.

I tried to do a check on the piston to head clearance and the piston to valve clearance, but the only thing I could find locally was play doh. I'm not happy with how is was to work with. Too soft. So I need to make a trip into town tomorrow and get some clay and run the test again. Does anyone know what the recommended valve to piston clearance is? How about piston to head clearance?

Jack, yes I am using stock height pistons. And yes, I painted my aluminum. But anything that was going to be inside of the engine oiling system was taped off to keep paint out of it. B.










Don't panic guys. The parting edges of the rods are supposed to look like this. They are NOT machined. The factory rods are "fractured metal" rods. These are NOT broken (LOL).

 

What’s wrong with those rods? The metal looks rough...

 

You guys with your pretty internals.....

Valve clearance depends on valve lift and lobe index (you know that), and I don't remember what cam you went with. I got 2 answers from Colt, 0.030" one time and 0.035" another for the Colt Stage 2.