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Well, got my power plant pulled out this weekend. Now to start stripping off the parts I am going to reuse, Ie front and rear covers, HPOP, oil cooler, heads.
On cams. Stage 1 or 2? I don't do any heavy towing. She is mainly a daily driver. FICM Repair tune in the ECM/PCM and I've got 155/stock injectors and 4" turbo back on a stock turbo. Thanks, B.
Cool. I'm thinking a Stage 2 is the way to go. I called KDD today and talked about a short block. They are back logged four months. Supply chain issues and high demand. So I called B&R Head and Block in West Sacramento and they said they would get back to me with a price to rebuild my short block. I also called Asheville Engines and left a message since they were already closed for the day. As of this minute, it looks like J & K Engines is the best bet. I will D & K Engines tomorrow also. I did send an email to FICMRepair about a short block. Hopefully he will see it and respond. B.
On a side note, how durable are the A/C compressors on our trucks? I'm sure they are reliable, but since I have the boat anchor out, it would be a piece of cake to change it now. It's 16 years old with 190k on the odo and never been a problem. But I'm sure it won't last forever. Contemplating on changing it now. That thing would be a real PITA once the engine is back in. Thoughts? B.
I still am running the original compressor at 232k miles. They are pretty good. I did replace the clutch though. Unfortunately, the OEM compressors are no longer available. @NPCCPARTSMAN just bought a compressor from Rock Auto for a good price.
Good to know the compressors are solid. I think I should, at the least, change the orifice tube. And, depending on how it looks, decide on anything else to replace. The condenser is looking a little ruff so I may change it anyway. I have the tools so I think a new clutch would be wise also. I looked at Rock Auto for the A/C components. Not bad on the prices. B.
Talked to Asheville today. They have a one week build-out time frame right now. They don't deck their blocks. And most have a .020 or .030 overbore. They do a new billet Stage 2 came for 800 bucks. Round trip freight is 640 bucks. But only a 12 month warranty. Engine comes undressed. SO I will have to reuse my front and rear covers along with the oil pan. Which means I need to get the seal installer tools for the front and rear main seals. Added expense? Hum....
I sent a message to Swamps Motorsports about their short blocks yesterday. Have not yet received a response. Need to call DK Engines. The B & R Head and Block in West Sacramento has not returned my two calls asking for pricing. How hard can it be? Really? SMH. B.
Nope, not a peep out of Ed. Yeah, that was one reason KDD has a four month back log. Parts shortages. Asheville told me they are well stocked up on parts. Although, I prolly should not say that until AFTER I get a short block(LOL)? B.
You should ask Ashville what they would want for a short block minus a cam. They want a lot of money for the addition of a stage 2 cam. While I have a Stage 2 Colt, the reality is I only need a Stage 1 since I'm not an HP guy in a diesel truck, and that should also be on your radar. Stage 1 brings an acceleration response like the 2003 cam; they have the same lobe separation. But either Stage 1 or Stage 2 from someone like Colt is a good option. You would have to press on the gear (need access to a hydraulic press), but even taking the Ashville stock cam and flipping it on eBay would be a less expensive option. As a short block without the covers, swapping a cam is really, really easy.
I don't get why they don't deck their blocks. They could take a 0.001" cut and be fine. Stock decks, for most people, seem to be fine as far as flatness; they don't move. It's when they get power abraded that there are issues.
On a side note, how durable are the A/C compressors on our trucks? I'm sure they are reliable, but since I have the boat anchor out, it would be a piece of cake to change it now. It's 16 years old with 190k on the odo and never been a problem. But I'm sure it won't last forever. Contemplating on changing it now. That thing would be a real PITA once the engine is back in. Thoughts? B.
I have 316K on mine and it's been seriously abused on occasions. I'm changing the compressor because the clutch gap is at .037 and it's as expensive to change the clutch as it is replace the compressor. When it stays engaged it cools very well, but it's getting very sketchy, so time to fix it. FWIW, if you change the compressor now, before it fails and contaminates the system, it's MUCH easier and MUCH cheaper in the long run.
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