6.0 Short Block
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 972
Likes: 224
From: Linden, Ca.
So, I take it using studs in the mains is prolly over kill for a street engine right? It doesn't seem like the bottom ends fail on these engines. But, I think maybe ARP rod bolts would be in order hey? B.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 3,941
Likes: 240
From: Texas
Private massage me and I will get you set up with a shop here in Texas that will do everything you need on your block and all you will have to do is assemble, install and dress. And to be perfectly honest I would steer clear of that guy in Michigan, too many horror stories and bad reviews. My shop will get you pistons, cam, lifters and everything. I went with the “full meal deal” and it was $4800. That was boring cylinders, machining the rods for wrist pins, assembling and machining so mains and cam bearings are within spec, piston protrustion is calculated etc. I had them grind amd polish my crank and install the cam gear on my new Colt stage 2 cam as well. I have an invoice I can send you if you private message me.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,760
Likes: 21
B,
I'm on the east coast Pa, Del, Md, NJ area and my shop is local, only a few miles down the road.
I wasn't planning on using any performance hardware for the rods or crank, just the heads. I don't believe it's necessary, we'll see what others think.
I'm on the east coast Pa, Del, Md, NJ area and my shop is local, only a few miles down the road.
I wasn't planning on using any performance hardware for the rods or crank, just the heads. I don't believe it's necessary, we'll see what others think.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 3,941
Likes: 240
From: Texas
I don’t see any benefit if you are staying reasonably stock. I might have used ARP hardware on rods and bedplate etc if I were building a 1000 horsepower beast with Wagner rods etc but for semi-stock I reused what I had and I’m pushing some extra horsepower and towing.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,829
Likes: 3,114
From: Jersey Shore
They are torqued to “clamping load” values, so are not stressed excessively. I don’t see the need.
I'm not sure we get any benefit from the studs either. I’m try to find a lab that won’t charge $100 per bolt to test the OE bolts for yield, ultimate tensile, and elongation. Maybe one by Philly.
Chuck, where is the shop you used?
I'm not sure we get any benefit from the studs either. I’m try to find a lab that won’t charge $100 per bolt to test the OE bolts for yield, ultimate tensile, and elongation. Maybe one by Philly.
Chuck, where is the shop you used?
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,829
Likes: 3,114
From: Jersey Shore
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Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 240
Likes: 6
From: Asheville, NC
I talked to another shop today. I had no idea they actually had a full machine shop really. They rebuilt my turbo last year. A tip from a customer today lead me to call them. They are a really well known business in Stockton with a good reputation. They can do all the machine work on my block, but they won't assemble it. They stated they are not certified for International engines, only Cummins. Since when did machine shops need to be certified to assemble an engine? Is this an actual thing? I wonder if that's why some shops are skipping the assembly process? They were not able to give me a price though, as there are too many variable, like if the mains need to be line bored, or the block decked, or the cylinders machined etc. Which I guess makes sense. I can assemble the short block. Even check piston protrusion as I have a magnetic base with dial indicator. Press of/on the cam gear. File fit rings. Etc. Been there, done that. Just not on a diesel engine before. I think I might do that. It would just be a bummer when checking piston height to find out the pistons need machining. Hum.. B.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 10,121
Likes: 654
From: NH
Wow, what a great thread. Jack, thanks for all the good info. Bruce, thanks for all the details on your particular case with photos. And thanks to Asheville Engine for providing info.
Hope my 6.0L doesn't need to go through all this. It's only at 110k miles. Good to see people are still keeping these old engines running.
Hope my 6.0L doesn't need to go through all this. It's only at 110k miles. Good to see people are still keeping these old engines running.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 972
Likes: 224
From: Linden, Ca.
No problem troverman. Yes, kuddos to Asheville. I will continue to post pics as things move along. Yes, this thread has turned into a good source of info. Jack has been very helpful with data he has been collecting over the years.
Yeah, It doesn't seem like the bottom ends of these engines need much help at all. I will be sticking with the factory main bolts. This area doesn't seem to need beefing with studs at my nearly stock power level. I DID order a set of ARP rod bolts though. That is one area I think that most engines CAN benefit from, even if it's just an extra margin of insurance. The factory rods are impressive so I don't see a need to upgrade those. Not for nearly stock applications anyway.
I'm going to check my piston protrusion and see where things line up at. B.
Yeah, It doesn't seem like the bottom ends of these engines need much help at all. I will be sticking with the factory main bolts. This area doesn't seem to need beefing with studs at my nearly stock power level. I DID order a set of ARP rod bolts though. That is one area I think that most engines CAN benefit from, even if it's just an extra margin of insurance. The factory rods are impressive so I don't see a need to upgrade those. Not for nearly stock applications anyway.
I'm going to check my piston protrusion and see where things line up at. B.
