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Moving right along this weekend, things have been going well. Been taking my time disassembling things, cleaning, replacing and reinstalling, Etc. Wasn't expecting to see cup issues, but after injector removal, 2, & 6 produced coolant in the cup. Never did I have any outward signs there was an issue looming, or rather actually present. Oil changes every 4 thousand miles, and my recent coolant flush last year never showed any issues. But I've only owned this truck since Feb of 2016. With the mileage close to 230,000, 218,000 when I bought it, I've always considered it a high mileage vehicle regardless of the engine type. Before I plan another road trip out west I was set on performing what I felt was needed maintenance, I can no longer ask myself if I really needed to do all of this. After speaking with Nicmike, it looks like I'll replace with the stainless cups.
All passenger glow plugs came out without issue, and all are OE, and probably original, valve cover harnesses were all good, and are the same exact design as the new replacements from Ford. The valve springs still seemed pretty stout still, the seals weren't bad either. They all got replaced anyway. Two of the passenger injector O rings closest to the nozzle were starting to either disintegrate, or possibly damaged by heat. Shortly after buying the truck, maybe a year, I had removed the tuning chip that was on there, and replaced it with the Hydra chip, and used PHP for tunes. I remember him reading the previous tuning map out, and was amazed at how much advanced timing was used. Springs and valve seals weren't bad either, the keepers were a bit tricky, but I never lost one. Opened the HPOP reservoir and replaced the filter gasket. The fuel bowl was really crusty inside, like rust, which I already knew. At the end of the day I felt like I should've left things alone as all was good, but after processing things overnight, I feel that following my notion to keep up on what I felt is needed maintenance has not only allowed me to find this quickly, but gives me peace of mind knowing what's been done for down the road.
Today was make lemonade day.!!
Completing my maintenance is going to be a bit longer than I thought, I decided to just pace myself, and get other stuff done and understood.
Got the HPOP hoses and head fittings installed, cleaned the valley, although my attention to detail escaped me there, I gave it a good shot, and said done. Turbo and pedestal are out, and since they're getting replaced too, I think now is the time to order them, kind of done sitting on top of the engine all scrunched up, or leaning over it on a ladder.
I've also decided to just stick to the OE turbo, and pedestal, at the end of the day, the vehicle performs fine for my needs. The area I really need to address is either regearing for the current size tires, or just get away from that size and choose something else.
Made the engine harness look new again with a little wash, rinse, and re-dress.
Moving right along, stainless injector cups from RiffRaff arrived yesterday, RiffRaff cup Removal/Install tool on loan from Nicmike (big thanks!) arrived this afternoon. So I managed to get the feel of things and was able to install 2 cups this evening. I used a brass cup brush from Lowes with zip ties around it to clean the bottom of the bore, and another one to clean the top of the bore, then I used a clean rag with MEK on it wrapped around the brush attached to the drill to clean and de grease the bore prior to cup install. It will get a little tricky close to the firewall on Cyl #8.
New Garrett pedestal and a few O rings from Diesel O Rings arrived today too, the new KC turbo should be here Monday, or Tuesday.
So far my original brass cups are removing fairly easy, at least to how much more snug the beefier stainless ones are going in. It would appear the 2 cups removed may have been OK, but the Loctite may be where the failure is.
Quick day today, finished the drivers cups, all 6 Parker fuel line sleeves are now installed, installed the new IPR on the HPOP. One day this week, I'll install the drivers injectors.
A few more items on the scene, so both just got installed. I'm seeing a possible clearance issue between the wastegate arm, and the cross over coolant tube, the tube bears scratch marks from the install, but I didn't verify if it's actually in contact with the tube once fully installed, which I'll do later. I also had to rotate the actuator 180 as the nipple for the hose was pointing straight up into the insulation.
I hope it's a good performing turbo as it was a bear to install with tighter clearances. I had to loosen 1 bolt on each up pipe collar as the exhaust Y had to be moved slightly to line up to the new Turbo. I recently installed new bolts there, and new donut gaskets so no leaks are present. I decided against the extra work for the bellowed up pipes as possibly replacing the OE donuts are not difficult, and with my driving frequency should last a long time.
Buttoned up the drivers head, valve cover is now installed. I'd say the UCVH was the most difficult of the entire job. Actually broke one glow plug connector, so I used the harness for the passenger side and ordered another one from the dealer. I have more parts at the dealer to pick up. All the steering linkage, all the power steering hoses, and I ended up ordering the top engine harness since it was still avail.
Busy weekend, weekend #3..!!
Well it's worth it.
Installed 3 new power steering hoses, have 3 more to order, the new engine top harness installed, I'll either sell my original one or shelve. The turbo inlet boot, which was a real pain is installed, added the resistor to the EBPV pedestal plug, I had a spare valve that had a broken plug socket. Everything is put back together on the drivers side excluding the battery, AIS filter duct, and box, and CAC tube. After replacing the A/C parts last year, and seeing how much space was there to work on the injectors, I just couldn't resist taking all of that apart again, well not really, but I thanked myself afterward. The passenger side is apart, and going smoothly, but I had to be more careful as the valve cover harness was pretty brittle, everything on that side is darker, essence of burnt oil is present, glow plugs had thickened black oil on the body just up from the glow tip. The injector O rings were much worse and some falling apart. I got as far as installing all the valve seals, valve springs, and Cyl #1 stainless cup. At least all of the passenger brass cups had no signs of coolant leaks.
Things definitely looked like twice the mileage on that side. One of them looks like the O ring rolled when originally installed. There are many things that I have replaced in the last 5 years, from the tunes to the LPOP. There is no telling how many bad sensor plugs, over advanced timing tunes, poor LPOP may have led to this? Hopefully there isn't a bigger issue yet to be discovered. I wonder if you can run SeaFoam in the oil (without fear of thinning the oil too much) to help clean any of that out from the heads and block.
You definitely had oil getting into your fuel rail. Can't deny the evidence in your pics. Good news would be the evidence is also there to point to the o-rings as the culprit for that issue. New injectors and o-rings will have you set up for a new slate and no leaks. Weak LPOPs lead to roasted turbos and spun main bearings, not sludge in the fuel rail.
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