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Old Feb 4, 2018 | 07:25 AM
  #16  
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The steering wheel controls were pretty nasty, they were dismantled and cleaned, I replaced the shift lever, and multi-function signal lever too.










 
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Old Feb 4, 2018 | 07:28 AM
  #17  
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Added this within the first year.



 
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Old May 19, 2018 | 05:50 PM
  #18  
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Cargo Master
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Guess I should post in my own thread, it never gained much traction, so I lost interest. Currently I'm just adding trivial things to the X, soon I will get to the turbo, injectors, tuner, and valve cover harness upgrades.

I recently added the factory heated seat feature to both fronts, and converted the pass to power. When I had all the seats re covered in new leather early 2017, the factory heat pads were added then. Found all the parts from the same year X so the wire colors would be correct, and was able to wire them in to the body harness on their proper labeled fuse. I also modified both seat heat switches to allow the included button locator light to work when the key is on like the window switches, when the heat option is on the amber on light operates too.




Pulling voltage for pass power seat




Seat rigging and modules for heat




Pass pigtail for power seat




Tapping off drivers power for pass power seat




Connection soldered




completed





Original configuration above




Original configuration above




Re routing voltage path above




Re routing voltage path above




Re routing voltage path above



Re routed




Re routed



 
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Old May 19, 2018 | 06:02 PM
  #19  
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01__Excursion
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Decided to address the crappy glovebox light, which when you open the glovebox the compartment area opens up past the socket, so the compartment is hardly lit. I simply added a cut to fit piece of flat aluminum, screwed it to the dash frame, and affixed a strip LED unit on there, the LED strip is more white than shown in the pic, but it's not a cool white like I had hoped for. None the less, it's a big improvement, and is completely removable.




 
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Old May 19, 2018 | 06:20 PM
  #20  
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01__Excursion
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Cargo Master
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From: Rock Hill, SC
Today I decided to modify the tail lights after seeing it done here a while back. I bought new Ford housings late 2016, and used the ZEVO LED lights from Sylvania, which are the best because they shine rearward and really utilize the chrome reflector in the housing. I snagged a pair of tailgate parking housings from a 2001 Navigator for this. Instead of cutting out my current taillight bay, and trying to make the perfect socket key way, I came up with the idea to cut the female plastic opening from the donor housings using my Dremel, then epoxy them onto my housings. I'll then use the ZEVO 194R wedge LED's, if they don't match the current parking LED's, or I don't like them, then I can always cut my opening larger, and fetch a pair of housings with the larger socket key way.





















 
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Old May 19, 2018 | 06:30 PM
  #21  
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Pulled the rear bumper, cleaned things up, steel woole'd all the chrome and replaced both bumper step covers while they were still avail from Ford. Turns out my original bumper cover actually covered more of the vertical face than the new one did, the original one covered up to and nearly over the ripple that runs the length of the bumper. Taking the old cover off pretty much destroys the incorporated plastic tangs molded with the cover.








 
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Old May 20, 2018 | 12:44 PM
  #22  
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Very nice! Bunch of good upgrades for sure. I just replaced my multi switch a couple of weeks ago. What turbo/injectors/programmer are you thinking of doing?
 
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Old May 21, 2018 | 05:47 AM
  #23  
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Cargo Master
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Not going crazy, but I'm planning to do the Garrett GTP 38r turbo, Stage 1.5's 180/30cc injectors, a BTS transmission, and change my DP tuner to a PHP Hydra tuner.
While I'm in there I'll replace the glow plugs and harnesses.
 
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Old May 21, 2018 | 07:25 PM
  #24  
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Cargo Master
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Well Amazon botched my order, sent me one white LED, and one red LED, I have a trip coming up for the holiday, so I put everything back together, and used the original incandescent 194 bulbs for now, I'm actually happy with the outcome.


 
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Old May 23, 2018 | 05:31 AM
  #25  
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Finally finished the 4Th gauge install, I chose coolant temp because I replaced the water pump to the cast iron one with filter, and 203 thermostat. Used shrink tube with the glue inside to keep the sensor pigtail rigid, drilled a small hole into the P/S and ALT bracket and secured the wire with a harness holder. Added a harness holder to the firewall stud too.














 
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Old Oct 1, 2018 | 05:20 PM
  #26  
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After a recent trip to New Hampshire, then Cape Cod then home, there was a lot of driving at night, and in the rain. This was enough to push me into the addition of factory fog light, which I had been thinking about. While not a chosen option on my XLT, I was partially wired within the interior dash harness to the firewall connector.
I sourced the lights and brackets from Ford, a new OE bumper harness from Ebay, a new OEM "rare" headlight switch from Ebay, and 50% of a harness with both fuse boxes from a 2001 (7.3) F-250 Superduty in the junkyard.

I removed the drivers fender liner, AIS filter box, and battery, this made all the difference, well, plus the lift.


Lights, and bumper harness installed, bumper loosely replaced




Fuse box apart, upside down finding original fuse locations per the shop manual




Fuse box opened up, first spade terminal inserted WH/BK, poz side of fuse RD/BK to be connected to the poz bus bar.










Poz side of fuse soldered to the poz bus bar, the bus bar stopped short of the last commissioned fuse spot, the other side is the WH/BK hanging to the right which was added, this fuse #15 slot starts the power travel to the fog light switch on the dash




Terminals added to #15 spot just above the #13 10A spot




Fuse bank re-assembled, red terminal lock back in place, fuse in place..




The WH/BK wire leaving the fuse needs to connect to the same WH/BK wire from the fog light switch at the firewall connector, this wire was already part of the female firewall connector. The connector was opened, and the correct terminal and wire color from the junkyard harness was installed. First the plug had to be opened, unlocked, and the knock-out removed




Here the C1051M GY connector is opened and unlocked allowing for pin insertion to #31 mini slot directly above the securing bolt









Pin #31 inserted, pin lock back in place




Both fuse box wire and connector wire will be soldered together inside the fuse box, and this will complete the initial power path to the fog light switch





The WH/BK wires soldered together and shrink wrapped.




Next is the return voltage path to the fuse box from the fog light switch once it's turned on, here C1050M TN is removed, with my added yellow wire terminal already inserted to the empty fog light relay coil slot. The other side of C1050F yellow pin#18 was factory wired from the fog light switch. I didn't take pics, but I added the ground wire for the relay coil, then added the voltage feed in for the relay points from Fuse #12, as well as the relay points out which headed to the fog light harness.




This is the proper location for the 2 harnesses (bumper/body) to meet which follow the interior curve of the drivers fender back to the fuse box, and firewall plugs.



The end result is, well, factory fog lights, fused per the owners manual locations.






 
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Old Oct 1, 2018 | 09:00 PM
  #27  
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Is the point of the taillight modification to utilize a better bulb? Also, any info on your headlight housings?
 
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Old Oct 2, 2018 | 05:33 AM
  #28  
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Adding bulbs to the vacant spots on the tail lights was just to fill those spots, it's been done by others, and I liked the idea, so I followed. I tied them into the parking light wire. The real benefit was adding the Zevo bulbs to the main park/brake socket, I stayed with an incandescent bulb in the newly added spot.





The headlights are left over from the previous owner, some euro style aftermarket 1 piece that was forced into the older style support, were there was supposed to be the original 2 piece marker light and headlight. The current headlight housings are really junk, they are headed for the trash after I upgrade the front support to the 2005, and find a better quality headlight unit. I like the look of the headlights, just prefer a better quality housing.

I believe these are the same ones,

https://store.ijdmtoy.com/Ford-F250-...5099-led-c.htm
 
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Old Oct 5, 2018 | 08:28 PM
  #29  
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01__Excursion
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Cargo Master
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From: Rock Hill, SC
Slowly getting all the parts together for the performance upgrade.
On the list are:
38R, EBV Delete pedestal, High FLow Outlet, bellowed pipes, 180/30 injectors, glow plugs, valve cover gaskets and injector harnesses, PHP Hydra tuner, 910 Valve Springs, and a BTS transmission.
This will take some time to get all this completed, as I have to make avail some free time, and visit 2 states for the transmission and injector installs. So far I have purchased the glow plugs, valve cover gaskets and harnesses, and tuner this week. I started with the tuner today, loaded it up with the free stock PHP tunes to verify the chip, Excursion, and install work, no issues so far.

I modified the PCM plastic case so it would fit over the PCM and secure it in place, this was something that the previous owner left off as there was a DP Tuner installed, I wasn't too happy about the PCM being real loose like that. After cutting out a rectangle opening for the chip to fit, I added a 1/4" piece of soft foam on the inside of the cover to repel dust from the opening.












 
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Old Oct 28, 2018 | 05:35 PM
  #30  
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01__Excursion
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Cargo Master
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While the tuner is installed, and running canned tunes for now, which stink, I still have to purchase the 38R turbo, bellowed pipes, pedestal, injectors, etc, I decided to get moving on the 05-07 headlight upgrade and add the Morimoto LED projectors too.
Purchased the header, and housings from Ford, sourced the proper plugs from the local junkyard today. The plugs were from a random Ford vehicle which happened to have the proper color wires too, not all did.









over-spray to lightly painted with Oxford White to copy factory process, not needed, but I figured why not.




Test fit in place for now




Solder splicing in proper plugs from the junkyard, closing up the harness after



Solder splicing in proper plugs from the junkyard, closing up the harness after



Solder splicing in proper plugs from the junkyard, closing up the harness after



Solder splicing in proper plugs from the junkyard, closing up the harness after



Solder splicing in proper plugs from the junkyard, closing up the harness after





 
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