When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Clearly those wheels don’t fit your X. You should give them to me, as I’m certain they’ll fit on mine.
Yeah, they'll have to go out to the curb, I guess..
I'm not sure why they have such a snug fit in the rear, any ideas?
I'm going to try one of the fronts on the rear to see if I have the same issue, and probably try them on the X they easily came off of. I can work around it at home, but if there is an issue on the road, I'll have a problem.
Yeah, they'll have to go out to the curb, I guess..
I'm not sure why they have such a snug fit in the rear, any ideas?
I'm going to try one of the fronts on the rear to see if I have the same issue, and probably try them on the X the easily came off of. I can work around it at home, but if there is an issue on the road, I'll have a problem.
It might also be worth using a Dremel or similar to lightly grind out the hub opening on the wheel a hair. You wouldn't be taking off enough to damage the wheel at all,just enough top clean it up essentially.
Looks good.
Even those original rims with holes look good when they're pretty and shiny.
I liked those too, I just didn't want to mess with the lift again. I replaced everything the previous owner did cause it was a mess. I ended up with maybe 6" instead of the 4" I was targeting.
It might also be worth using a Dremel or similar to lightly grind out the hub opening on the wheel a hair. You wouldn't be taking off enough to damage the wheel at all,just enough top clean it up essentially.
I though t about that, but that might make it too loose on the fronts. I did use a wire wheel on the drill to make sure no powder clear was on the inner surface. I need to play musical wheels between both X's, and wheel sets to see what's going on. The parts X did have the 2 sets of threads between both axles, the coarse, and fine thread. I can't remember, and I didn't check which axle was coarse or fine, but one of those axles was probably changed.
I though t about that, but that might make it too loose on the fronts. I did use a wire wheel on the drill to make sure no powder clear was on the inner surface. I need to play musical wheels between both X's, and wheel sets to see what's going on. The parts X did have the 2 sets of threads between both axles, the coarse, and fine thread. I can't remember, and I didn't check which axle was coarse or fine, but one of those axles was probably changed.
That would depend mostly on if those are hub centric or lug centric wheels. If they are hub centric then that won't work
This is all sorted out, except the weights. Sometimes I just gotta be ignorant I guess. I used a stone bit, and some sanding cloth, and got both rear to fit as they are supposed to. As far as the weights, if they fly off again, I will see what other clip-ons they have, or just do stick on for the inner. Most of that aluminum on the stone is from the flat stock I used on the LED lights under the bumper.
Glad that you got the wheel seating sorted out, I was going to suggest the new powder coating was thicker than stock and was causing the snug fit.
Yes, that was surely part of it, but on the pass rear wheel, I actually used a rotary wire brush for the drill, and scrubbed all of that off, and still had a snug fit. So I was not ready to start shaving any metal from anywhere.
Been on my list, got motivated by Rainmaker. Replaced the shift tube, plunger, clamps, and bushings. Really straight forward, I pulled the steering wheel to have that out of my way.
Also replaced the rear diff speed sensor...
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
