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I can see why you changed it, the piece of mind having everything done perfect makes total sense to me. It has me questioning everything on my just about 100K mile 7.3. I really wonder if my injector O-rings and cups are A-Ok. Might have to wait until next year.. Only have one big pull to the mountains this summer.
Caught me off guard a bit, I was a bit confused to see coolant, somehow I thought the coolant passed by or through the injectors, and the purpose of the O rings on the injectors was to isolate the coolant, oil, and fuel from each other. I had been collecting parts from the dealer mainly for a year, and never thought I would be replacing cups. I never had any outward signs when changing the oil, or when driving it. In the end it really wasn't a bad job, I took an extra step by removing the A/C blower box, and coil which helped, and the cup tool on loan from Nicmike was the biggest help of all. I had been keeping up on preventative and proactive maintenance since I bought it, so these recent changes in performance, or starting have been subtle as it had been really running well after many sensor replacements early on. The vehicle was really un-molested for the most part anyway.
Really sorry to see your struggle on the turbo. I was watching closely to see how your experience with new stock injectors and this stage 1 turbo worked for you.
Drove it to Charlotte on Friday eve, about 30 min each way, I was on the beltway and able to play with it a bit. It really seems more spry with the same tunes, and my OE turbo back on till this weekend, when I install the New OE. I'm not expecting to feel much performance improvement, I think I'm at peak performance now. But the rough edges of the original compressor wheel maybe reducing performance that I just can't detect.
No apologies if this is a stupid question; that seems to be all I accel at lately With that forewarning, is it feasible to remove the impeller and clean up the rough edges with a file?
Are you are planning to put in the new OE turbo with it's stock compressor wheel? I wanted to ask why not change that out for a wheel that will eliminate surge? I know I have surge now with my stock turbo, hydra PHP tunes, and stock injectors, pulling my TT up the mountain when RPM is 1800-2000 at WOT. Dropping to 2nd gear and getting the revs up to 2500-2700 eliminates surge as well, but it's noisy and not as comfortable.
Would you run into surge conditions with how you use your rig?
No apologies if this is a stupid question; that seems to be all I accel at lately With that forewarning, is it feasible to remove the impeller and clean up the rough edges with a file?
I had thought about doing that, but I feel the turbo unit is a very precision unit in my view, and just didn't want to go there risking failure from my own ignorance.
Are you are planning to put in the new OE turbo with it's stock compressor wheel? I wanted to ask why not change that out for a wheel that will eliminate surge? I know I have surge now with my stock turbo, hydra PHP tunes, and stock injectors, pulling my TT up the mountain when RPM is 1800-2000 at WOT. Dropping to 2nd gear and getting the revs up to 2500-2700 eliminates surge as well, but it's noisy and not as comfortable.
Would you run into surge conditions with how you use your rig?
When I bought the truck Feb 2016, the previous owner had a hack lift on it with springs that were not able to support the weight of the engine (posted pics of cracked leafs on one of these pages), a banks big head wastegate actuator, DP tuner tunes, K&N 57-2530 air filter, and the MBRP full exhaust. I use to have bad flutter/turbo surge towing or not, but as I started changing things it went away. Replacing the red/green hose set (from MAP sensor, to Spider, to actuator) with a new OE got rid of most of my turbo surge. I have no idea why. I'm currently seeing peak boost pressure at a steady 24. I didn't see much more with the stage 1 turbo.
The tunes are from PHP on a Hydra chip, I brought the truck to PHP and he did some live tweaks to the canned tunes I have on there. I have not had any turbo surge since it went away with my changes.
Following a local camping trip the last weekend of July, which was a shakedown trip, the Excursion gave me trouble. It towed to the campground fine, some 18 miles away, but 2 days later on the way home, about halfway it started running real rough, discharged white smoke, and had poor acceleration. I limped it home the last 8 miles, and parked it in the garage. Later the following week, I ran a contribution test on FOrscan, it said #1 was in trouble. I took off the valve cover and found the intake rocker arm just laying there, with both bolts snapped at the start of the threads. I ordered new rocker bolts from the dealer and replaced them all. I may have over torqued that side anyway. Did another shakedown trip locally, then a 10 hour round trip for Labor Day, and all has been fine. The new OE turbo seems to be more responsive, and the EGT's are around 800-900 when towing flat, climbs and grade increases will raise it to a 1,000, then all settles down.
Today I put the big tires back on till my November trip, and I finally replaced all the steering linkage with the OE Ford parts I bought a couple months back. Off to the alignment shop on Friday.
Drivers power quarter vent window decided it doesn't want to operate anymore. After ruling out electrical connections, and the switch, I removed the unit for an overhaul cause I thought they're NLA. The rear cover is simply glue tacked on at various spots. Everything after will come apart and go back together again. I ran all the parts through the parts washer, and sprayed the motor with TV tuner cleaner, re greased and put it all back together. Although it works fine now, and is much quieter, I saw that Ford still has these avail, so I ordered both sides new.
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With that forewarning, is it feasible to remove the impeller and clean up the rough edges with a file?
I had been collecting parts from the dealer mainly for a year, and never thought I would be replacing cups. I never had any outward signs when changing the oil, or when driving it. In the end it really wasn't a bad job, I took an extra step by removing the A/C blower box, and coil which helped, and the cup tool on loan from Nicmike was the biggest help of all. I had been keeping up on preventative and proactive maintenance since I bought it, so these recent changes in performance, or starting have been subtle as it had been really running well after many sensor replacements early on. The vehicle was really un-molested for the most part anyway.
