There is still a small birds nest behind the lower steering access cover from the previous owner for the remote start, and keyless entry. One day I'll see about getting that addressed.
But I try, being in the service industry for many years now, I prefer things to be integrated and serviceable.

 

Was able to pressure wash the Black 7.3 today, topside and underside, what a mess, but I should have less mud/sand falling on my face when I take things apart. Next batch of parts in line to install.
New OE CAC boot clamps, bumper sensors, sensor brackets, and bumper. Used complete bumper, and taillight harness. I forgot that my current bumper has the Ni-Light LED's cut into the bumper, I don't want to loose those, so I will address moving those over too. The new bumpers are coming with a protective coating on the backside, the same was applied to my front bumper.

 

It's must to be sooooo satisfying to accurately salvage an harness AND plug it all back in together with proper connectors!!

 

I'll watch for your listing of the mats.

Yes - wire is expensive! When I hit up the salvage yards, I always take time to hunt and snag some extra lengths. Especially heavier stuff for battery bank building.
Automotive wiring is better quality too.

 

Lets hope. I deliberately pulled that harness from the 2001 junkyard rig a week ago, because the colors will match my 2001. The 2000 wire colors may not be a match. Proper color matches will help in the install, and diagnosing issues in the future.

 

I'm cheap, I save what I can. The BMW 7 series, and such are a good place to find good gauge battery wire. I grabbed a perfect main battery cable from the trunk to the engine which I used for my stereo amps, mentioned somewhere above on one of these pages.

 

Sourced 4 wedge trailer tires, and aftermarket Ford rims from a friend to put on the parts X so I can get the 18" OE ones off to have re-done. Had 2 of the tires mounted today.

 

Got the mis-matched lug nut situation handled today, 14x1.50's installed on the front.
Dropped the 18" OE rims off at the rim shop for polish and powder coat last Friday, they should be ready in another week.

 

Just one man's 2¢, I'm not big on spline lug nuts. I used to work for a tire shop and the adapter would crack all the time. I eventually replaced the splines that came with my truck with the fuller style, IIRC 13/16"

Before


Swapping


After


Regardless, cheers to progress You're making a lot more headway than me right now

 

I installed them by hand with a half inch ratchet. I bought them so I could have the junk rims installed on the junk X tight. The junk X does run, but came with no transmission, It needs to remain movable (pushable) as long as possible, and when the day comes for the tow truck to haul what ever is left away. When I start going to the lake soon, I will need to move it so I can get things out of the garage. I'm building a leantoo behind the garage for parts storage, the dingo, and all of it's attachments, I'll possibly roll it back there.

 

OE 18" rims are said to be finished this mid week. Motivated myself to tackle the rear bumper late this afternoon. I made a large miscalculation, I forgot all about the bumper lights from the previous owner. I thought no problem, I bought a small pneumatic sawzall, blades, and a smaller unibit. Having the bumper off today I now see that there is no other place in the bumper for them to install, moving out a little further in a space that looks good, is a no go. The bumper backing frame work is in the way. I really liked them there. I think I will mount them to the ends of the receiver after I fabricate some sort of bracket. Both my junk X bumper harness, and the one I pulled from the junkyard had broken sensor plugs on the drivers side, so I cut the bumper off the junk X, and transferred a good plug from it. It's looking that I may not need to replace all of the harnesses that I got, which is a plus. The bumper sensor plug was already there, had the 6 wires, and a jumper cap on the end. So if I have the reverse module plug inside, then I'm plug N play. For now all of the exterior connections are set.

 

A little more progress. My confusion at the junkyard has been put to rest. When I was pulling the bumper and rear HVAC harnesses from the 01 junk yard, I couldn't understand why the harnesses seemed to continue in a loop from the rear AC area through the pass taillight body area, down to the bumper, and across to the drivers side, and continue up the drivers frame, including branch offs to the fuel tank Etc. The PAM wiring is all part of the drivers frame harness, picking up signal from the tranny range selector and continuing to the rear behind the bumper at the main plug behind the license plate. I am pre-wired to that point, fortunately I pulled all the correct harnesses, there was a brief point I thought I would need the frame wiring too. So the rear AC harness with pass through body grommet, and connector are installed, I will have to remove the bumper again, and swap out part of the rear end harness that includes the tail light plugs. Once that is done, I should be able to connect the dash switch and try it out.



Original harness showing fully pre-wired on the left, and non PAM optioned on the right




Disassembly




Disassembly




Disassembly




Disassembly




Replacement PAM harness installed



Factory rubber plug for PAM wiring hole




PAM harness/plug pushed through pass body




Final taillight harness to be plugged into the PAM plug at pass tail light

 

All of the PAM system is hooked up, but it no worky..!! Well, it does have power, the bumper sensors are ticking, and I have 5 DTC's to parse through this weekend. I will need to check all of the added harnesses from end to end. I have the complete PAM system from the junk X, and another spare speaker, and module form a 04. Luckily the PAM is now on the ISO network, and can be read by FORScan.

 

I find it strange that it throws an error for all four sensors, though I have no prior experience with the system. I guess in my mind I feel like something should work. I guess I'm about to learn though; I have a faulty sensor to find and fix on my F250.

Thanks for sharing your progress

 

Tackled the diagnostics of the Park Assist this morning with a clear head. After pulling the codes, and studying their diagnostic procedure in the manual, I started with the module plug. I removed it from the PAM to test the speaker wires first, and found what I figured would be my issue. Corrosion on 3 of the most important pins. Not sure how since it's up so high, maybe the A/C lines dripping on the plug just right from the donor vehicle. I opened a spare scrap plug (from a 2004 I grabbed a few years ago) to see how it came apart. Easy enough, so I opened up mine, cleaned things up with electrical spray, then used Deoxit to coat the pins, and sockets. My spare 04 speaker, and the speaker I pulled a few weeks ago with the module and harnesses were both bad. No OHMS, the speaker from the black junk X tested good. Once I had a working system, I tried the 2000 module from the junk X, and the 2004 module in my 2001 set up, both modules work. The junk X module (2000), and the module I got from the junkyard (2001) a few weeks ago are both 4 W/D, the 2004 is not. So it won't be as accurate as it's intended for a vehicle closer to the ground.



Practice plug to experiment with. End cap slides off.




Molex slides out of housing.




Spades are removable if needed




My installed module plug un-plugged for inspection.




My installed harness plug with corrosion on 1,2,14,15













Original dash insert, with aftermarket wood trim




Obvious.




Will remove the wood-grain trim and transfer over to the new dash trim.




Spare 2000 Junk X module (top), 2004 Module (bottom)




PAM is error code free. The PCM , and Message center errors I created after running a test on the modules, the vehicle off created an error for each...