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The A/C was perfect as it should be after the evacuate and charge following the front evap coil replacement. Met Nicmike for a seat sale 1.5 weeks ago which was nearly a month since I did the AC work. The AC just didn't seem as robust as I knew it should. When I returned from the trip I put the gauges on the system, sure enough it was low. As a longtime A/C service man, I kick myself for ignoring the signs that it took too long to pull a proper vacuum on a system that was already dry, and each time I rotated the clutch disk it made the microns on my gauge immediately fluctuate up. When I pulled the clutch disk off of the compressor, it was clear that the original compressor, now @ 244,000 had been slowly leaking for sometime.
This couldn't happen a better time though since I am upgrading to the Melling LPOP. And what I thought was the front of my oil pan leaking actually appears to be the front crank seal. I will also use this time to add the "6.0" transmission cooler. I chose the 31 row.
Everything should be a breeze since I will be able to remove all coils in the way, (CAC, Radiator, Condenser, & OE stock tranny cooler) mainly to clean and blow out. I have new CAC left and right boots to install too.
All my Ford parts have arrived as of today. Just waiting on the rest of the specific Ford tools to show up from Rotunda, Freedom Racing, and E-Bay.
FYI: the OE compressor from Ford as shown on the parts illustration, the same Tasca uses, shows reference #5 to include a complete compressor. This was not the case when I ordered from my dealer. I even ordered a second one. It ended up being piece meal. The compressor is a "New" not reman from Ford.
No UV light needed, the green is a dead give-away...
Factory damper is supplied with a new wear ring installed on the reverse side.
LPOP, A/C compressor, and harmonic balanced are on. Found some wear on my timing cover, for now I'll accept it and pay attention to the starting symptoms of low LPOP pressure. I had no issues before with starting or running. A timing cover is not roster this year. The OE rotogears measured right the max of their tolerances per the manual, and looked pretty good for the mileage. The balancer wear ring was in good shape too with no grove from the seal. What I thought was the front of the oil pan leaking, seeme to be the LPOP housing seal. I actually never took pics of the new Melling installed.
Customer access fuel bowl drain hose added. I had time to kill and was looking things over, like tightening/cleaning the ground connector and decided to add a hose extension to the drain pipe off the fuel bowl, the clamp on the frame is a transmission vent hose clamp.
The first batch of items is finally finished. And what a pain the A/C became.
Finally got the 31 row cooler installed too, 3 were ordered from the dealer, each one came in damaged at the bottom mounts. I finally settled for the last one and bent it back out. I couldn't find any pics of other cooler installs, and the proper hose was not going to bend well, and stay within the space below the cooler, so I decided to plumb it with 1/2" copper, and 1/2" to 3/8" brass fittings. Not my best work, but it works, is out of sight, and there are no leaks. Rubber hose over the copper tube was used where areas of wear might be a concern. New Charge Air Cooler boots were added too.
After replacing the A/C compressor, the system still would not pull down into a vacuum, but held pressure @127 psi for 3 days. I kept thinking it was the front seal on the new compressor. After going over all the connections under the hood, and replacing a few O rings a few more times, I was at a loss. When I brought my leak detector to the rear coil I had a slight response. Sure enough it was the culprit. So I ordered a new coil and TXV from the dealer, after taking 24 hours to pull down to the upper 300's in microns, I left it there and charged it up.
This reminds me that I puled a vacuum on my AC system after having it opened up for the swap and I was able to pull one, but it lasted about 3 minutes. I'll have to get some new o-ings and replace the ones I had open and see if that helps. I'm pretty much in the dark on AC systems, so I'm sure it'll take me a few iterations to figure it all out.
It's really frustrating when you start second guessing your own intelligence or equipment because things just don't add up, and you can't come up with a reason. I pulled my equipment off and used on other sealed systems to verify they were working correctly.
I just read this from beginning to end, and I must say, I'm jealous of the level of detail you're able to put in to your ride. I could go on about how much I love each little thing you've done. The LEDs in the console, the rear deflector, the headlights and taillights. It's all top shelf!
Hey, many thanks..
One of the few advantages of being **** I think...
There have been many other things I have done prior to starting this thread, I thought, one day I would catch things up to speed, once projects are in the rear view mirror if they aren't documented than they lose value I guess.
Thinking back I thought I had added this mod to my thread, but I don't see it anywhere.
B pillar interior trim lighting added early 2017 I believe. Pewter color fixtures pulled form a 7 series junkyard BMW, LED festoon lights installed.
Did you source your headliner from a parts supplier, or from a salvage yard? Mine doesn't seem to want to hold in the rear AC vents, so I was going to replace it, and Dynamat everywhere while it was exposed.
Did you source your headliner from a parts supplier, or from a salvage yard? Mine doesn't seem to want to hold in the rear AC vents, so I was going to replace it, and Dynamat everywhere while it was exposed.
I removed all the necessary parts inside the excursion so the headliner would come out the rear. I thought it would fit in one of my spare Astro cargo vans with the pass seat removed, but nope, so I drove the X to the headliner guy an hour away, and left it with him. So it's my original headliner that was just redone.
Putzing around today on many home projects, and decided to give the X a taste of 99-2000.
I added the 99-00 right barn door gasket to my 2001.
2001 forward this gasket was not used, yet I felt it still provides a valid function. You only get one chance to get it right, and you're drilling into fiberglass on the end. So measure, mark, drill, it's really a 10 min job. The barn door seems to close the same, but I feel confident there is now added gasket protection.
I carefully pulled the gasket from a junkyard donor, I say carefully because the one-way push fasteners do not like to come out. A trim removal tool is needed or you'll be looking for new fasteners. The gasket is 1/2" down from the top of the door, measured at the underside of the lip. So I line it up, start there with a center punch and do each hole one after the other. Sound wise I don't think it will even be measurable, I'm thinking it adds cushion to the door slam, and maybe some extra protection against dust and road spray.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
