When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I think all of the stuff I've ordered, and plan to replace is finally here. I'll possibly be wrapping this up by the weekend. Got all the pass side injectors installed today, the cups have been in for 3 and 4 days, this Tuesday and Wednesday I had to remove all of the valve springs and shim them, long story, but I had passed on using them, but installed them after talking to Clay at RiffRaff. New power steering pump and all the power steering hoses are installed, heater control valve is installed, have a few new rubber heater hoses to install too. The steering linkage parts I may have a truck shop install, then align not sure yet.
If you want, now's a good time to add some padding to that 90 degree fitting on the pump - it can rub on the CAC pipe.
I had some superficial damage to the sound insulation on mine, but some have had it wear a hole. I used an old ignition coil wire boot and zip ties to protect this area. You can also use a Dorman 47028 elbow.
Thanks for the tip, I was seeing some rubbing on other parts of those steering hoses, I'll pay close attention once the CAC tubes and everything else has been installed, and see what needs some attention in that area.
After my struggle to remove the dipstick tube nut securing it's welded bracket to the valve cover stud, I noticed that the tube adapter at the oil pan was now loose, never a sign of oil leak there either, I inspected the adapter, proceeded to snug the 2" nut, that didn't work. The internal adapter fitting and O ring were allowed to fall back and rest on the edge of the pan baffle shelf while I inspect the nut. This ended up being another discovery of definite failure like the injector cups. The nut is heavily distorted, I'm guessing someone has tried to tighten it in the past, or the factory just over tightened it, so I retrieved the swollen O ring, and sent the internal adapter to it's grave for the next few years. After looking at a few options including an external weld on type, I just ordered the Strictly Diesel adapter for now. Meanwhile I'll button up what I can.
Wow, amazing build!! Are you getting close to starting it up? Curious how you like those injectors. Also Curious if engine noise will ne reduced with all the replaced parts.
I'm going to be making a set of those inner fender gaurds myself, those look beautiful!
It's been running for a week, but, I'm not happy with the turbo. I'm seeing higher EGT's across the board, towing or not. Keeping my frustration to a dull roar, I'm working with KC Turbo and following some of their check points, including boost pressure testing. I actually got fed up today, and put my OE turbo and EBPV pedestal back in.
Otherwise the idle is indeed a bit quieter, more monotone, and consistent with it's chatter, room temp start ups are a little better too.
It's been running for a week, but, I'm not happy with the turbo. I'm seeing higher EGT's across the board, towing or not. Keeping my frustration to a dull roar, I'm working with KC Turbo and following some of their check points, including boost pressure testing. I actually got fed up today, and put my OE turbo and EBPV pedestal back in.
Otherwise the idle is indeed a bit quieter, more monotone, and consistent with it's chatter, room temp start ups are a little better too.
My first 2003 7.3 was relatively quiet and pleasant. My current 2001 is extremely loud by comparison and it only has 100k miles on it.. so that's why I ask.
That just doesn't make sense the KC turbo would offer higher EGT and seemingly worse efficiency. Did everything seal up on the stock up pipes? I'm sure they'll get the the bottom of it, too bad you had to go through the effort of swapping on the OE turbo again. Glad everything else is playing nicely however. What tunes are you running?
Well I won't elaborate on KC until things get settled, they are not interested in having their turbo back. So I called my C/C and will work it out with them.
Everything was installed tight as can be, which I already knew, but re verified when I started to remove the KC turbo. The boost test per their instructions took just over 2 minutes to to zero out the 35-40 PSI I charged it up with.
Talked to Bob @ Diesel O Rings today for an hour, was going to buy the GTP-38 cartridge, but they have a new from Garrett, a GTP-38 with EBPV pedestal OE turbo that I purchased today. So I will end up with a brand new OE turbo and pedestal and leave it there.
Oh man, as if they won't accept it back! Clearly there is something not right especially if you've gone over and above running all tests with extreme attention to detail. It's almost like it was built with tolerances too tight.
That all in one turbo/pedestalis a nice option. Was your original turbo pretty worn?
Originally Posted by 01__Excursion
Well I won't elaborate on KC until things get settled, they are not interested in having their turbo back. So I called my C/C and will work it out with them.
Everything was installed tight as can be, which I already knew, but re verified when I started to remove the KC turbo. The boost test per their instructions took just over 2 minutes to to zero out the 35-40 PSI I charged it up with.
Talked to Bob @ Diesel O Rings today for an hour, was going to buy the GTP-38 cartridge, but they have a new from Garrett, a GTP-38 with EBPV pedestal OE turbo that I purchased today. So I will end up with a brand new OE turbo and pedestal and leave it there.
No problems that I know of with my OE turbo, but while it was out, I looked at the compressor wheel, and the edges of the blades were a little rough, I never bothered to check for shaft play either. The previous owner did have a K&N wet filter in there. I removed that after I bought the truck and installed the Ford AIS maybe 4 years ago.
All this work is being done for piece of mind when I return to Lake Powell at Utah/Arizona with the boat at some point. Last years trip had to be cancelled. But the maintenance made me aware of the degraded injector O rings, and that I had 2 cups just starting to leak.
I can see why you changed it, the piece of mind having everything done perfect makes total sense to me. It has me questioning everything on my just about 100K mile 7.3. I really wonder if my injector O-rings and cups are A-Ok. Might have to wait until next year.. Only have one big pull to the mountains this summer.
