When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I don't know how I've been missing this thread but wow that is a great Ex you're building! Given me some ideas...
Many Thanks, I haven't posted lately, there are little things I have done I haven't even posted here.
I'm about to "Poke the Bear" if you will as I have another trip to Utah/Arizona planned next August. So I'm looking at replacing lots of high mileage parts soon.
I get to Augusta every now and then.
Those are the 2005-2007 actual Ford headlight housings that were gutted and retrofitted with chosen projector and bezel parts. After a failed attempt myself to retrofit a new pair of housings, I just bought another set of housings and sent them off for the up-fit. The headlight/grill support was updated to the 2005-2007 as well, the bottom of the support was cut to work with the original 99-04 bumper which I had just bought from Ford the prior year, and the replacement 99-04 F-250 truck grill was slightly modified to work with both.
The time has come to throw some high mileage replacement parts at the truck. I have another trip planned to Lake Powell August/September 2020 on the Arizona/Utah line.This time I'll be towing the 22.3 bow-rider boat.
So far things on the list are glow plugs, valve cover gaskets, injector/glow plug harnesses, HPOP, with all hoses, complete injection pressure regulator assembly (IPR), fuel bowl rebuild including all suspect fuel lines, Exhaust back pressure sensor (EBP), tube, manifold fitting, and sensor plate, serp belt. They'll be more as I dig into this future mess. The trip is far enough off that I'll know of any complications well in advance.
This weekend I started with the EBP by coating the fittings with penetrating oil, it ended up being a lets see if this will work, and how hard to take this part off. By this afternoon I had all the parts off and realized that the manifold fitting has badly rusted threads and would not separate from the stainless flare nut. The tube was fairly clean, most of the carbon, and soot was at the sensor and top of the tube even though there were no leaks. I decided before taking any of this apart that I didn't want to clean any of it, and just bought all new from the dealer. Since there is some sort of updated bend in the pipe, I pre-fit the pipe first to confirm all was good.
When I had the cross member out last year to replace the transmission mount, I only de-greased the member, and put it back in, I noticed that in places where the paint was gone, it's been starting to surface rust.So I stripped it, media blasted it, and gave it a proper coat of paint.
Many thanks.
I'm happy with the paint I chose at Oreilly, Some rust defender paint by Krylon in a Semi Flat finish, when dry it really looks like a powder coat finish.
So I purchased a 2000 V-10 a few months ago as a spare run around for when I work on the top end of my 7.3 in preparation for my Utah/Arizona trip later this year. The V-10 needed a transmission, which I just installed a couple weeks ago. Now that the V-10 is running and driving again, I'm addressing the little things that it needs since I'll be selling it when my 7.3 is done. The front A/C evaporator has a leak, so I ordered the full blower case with coil, new fan motor, and NOS vacuum hose set for my 7.3 and I'll use my original evap in the V-10 as there was no issues with my A/C. Took maybe 7 hours today to swap everything in my 7.3 and leave it on the vacuum pump over night. Tomorrow I'll put my good used coil into the V-10 which is already torn down with the blower case side access panel removed only. All parts are from my Ford dealer.
The heatshield is now a perforated aluminum instead of the foil backed insulation used previously.
My blower was fine too, but I also bought a 2000 5.4 Ecursion XLT which needs a front blower, so updating mine was the proper option for me.
The re-circulation plenum that butts up to the windshield cowl, and it's actuating vacuum motor needed to be swapped over.
The orifice/strainer was not included with the new coil, the old one was cleaned and re-used.
The fender liner, shock, shock tower, and wheel had to come off so the blower box could come out from the bottom. The heater core hoses were left intact.
The visible drain tube is actually for the heater core, should it spring a leak.
Both A/C systems are cooling properly, but the V-10 has been missing fan speed #2 since the beginning. I ordered a new resistor, and pigtail to correct this. The new parts go in the 7.3, while the OE 7.3 resistor and plug was just moved over to the V-10 tonight.
More trivial crap till I get the injectors, and HPOP parts in.
The V-10 ESOV system has a leak. Despite the P/O removing the Ford lockers, and replacing them with Warn, I decided to replace the leaking cross frame hose set as the V-10 hoses are leaking from the mushy Y connector, and possibly in one of the lines.
The transmission selector operates the transfer case properly, but there is a soft code for the ESOV solenoid in Forscan, I think this is because the system can't obtain a solid vacuum. Both Hubs hold vacuum when tested individually. So a new hose set goes on my 7.3, while the removed functional hose set will go on the V-10, and tighten the whole vacuum system up.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
