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Hmmmm, is it the truth, fact, or an opinion...........inquiring minds would like to know. LOL
You can learn what HR thinks you should know. Which is obviously going to steer you to their products. Which is neither good nor bad in my opinion. I just choose not to take it as gospel.
You can learn what HR thinks you should know. Which is obviously going to steer you to their products. Which is neither good nor bad in my opinion. I just choose not to take it as gospel.
Were the canbus decoders necessary with the beam tech led’s ? Do they flicker or cause the check engine light to come on without them ?
It's a strange deal to me. Some trucks had the issue, some did not. Pretty sure I was first on the forum to have them and started this thread. Just over a year in with not a single issue. No decoders and never an issue with flicker, radio static or CEL. Yet others had to run the decoders or have an unsatisfactory experience. Weird.
Were the canbus decoders necessary with the beam tech led’s ? Do they flicker or cause the check engine light to come on without them ?
mine didn’t flicker looking at them or while driving w/o the canbus decoders.
i did notice flicker in my dash screen from the front camera with headlights on & they did cause am/fm radio static on weaker radio stations. The canbus decoders fixed the radio static & flicker in dash screen on low beam.
I still notice a slight screen flicker on hi beam but not bad.
no CEL on tho.
Someone asked about snow/ice build up after switching to LED’s. I noticed a layer of ice build up today in rather mild temps (upper 20’s-to 30F). My guess is it will be a problem in colder snowy/icy conditions.
Someone asked about snow/ice build up after switching to LED’s. I noticed a layer of ice build up today in rather mild temps (upper 20’s-to 30F). My guess is it will be a problem in colder snowy/icy conditions.
It was me. Thanks for posting. I was worried there would be snow/ice buildup.
Sorry spooledsrt, I Haven’t been out on the roads lately, I’m thinking it will be a problem, I left the lights on for 30 min and the headlight lenses were barely warm, and that’s sitting in a garage at 45 degrees. Also I installed canbus cables on all 4 headlights, I now have a 3 sec delay switching from high beams to low beams, I’ll remove the canbus’s from the high beams first when I get time.
Copied from a different post, it's information I wanted to share here.
Good news is that the H10 fog lights were very easy to install. The H13 headlights were very hard to install (ill get into that next) After installing fog lights and headlights I did not detect any radio interference, there was no delay from high beam to low beam, it does appear to be plug and play. I used the H13 bulbs with a round base, not the oval shaped and the fanless bulb. I did not make any FORScan adjustments (I don't have the things to do that)
Bad news, the bulbs were very hard to screw in. It was below freezing yesterday, I elected to not remove the front grill, I feared plastic clips would break off. The bulbs are a 2 piece assembly. A part that screws into the headlight socket, and the led element with cooling fins and the wire. There are 3 tabs that align up to holes in the headlight socket, one is larger than the other two so there is only one way the socket will install. To keep the led element up and down as the directions show, I found I had to turn it 90 degrees so they were going in backwards. If they were to go in as shown the element was in the position where it comes out of the screw in part of the assembly. When it got dark and I turned on the lights, the low beams looked perfect, however the high beams shot down to the ground like they were fog lights. I guess today I will see if I can rotate the elements 1 click short of 90 degrees. If they go a full 90 degrees they will come apart and fall out of the light assembly. I hope I do not have to remove the bulbs as my finger tips still ache from the install. I suspect if the weather was warmer the bulbs would snap into place much easier. I did make sure the red rubber gasket came off with each of the original bulbs.
The picture in step 2 is confusing to me. Now looking back, I see they have you remove the body from the socket and screw the socket first into the headlight housing, then install the led body into the socket. This gives me hope that I will be able to rotate my led bodies without unscrewing the socket. The "socket" does not show accurately, it has two tabs like the factory bulbs, tabs that are used to twist it clockwise into the housing. I now wonder if screwing the socket into place without the body installed would have been easier? At the time I made sense to me to install it all at once, thinking that once installed the body could not be rotated, especially after seeing how difficult it was to get it fully seated.
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