When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Buy the 05-07 buckets. They will work just fine on your 2000, and the springs and the rubber seats won't care if the dimple is there. As far as the driveshaft, you will have to shorten it no matter what bed you have if you use an 08-10 rear end. There is some sort of harmonic balancer on the pinion yoke of the '08+ trucks. It takes up several inches where the driveshaft used to occupy space up to the pinion yoke. Find a good driveline shop that other people around you have used and recommend. It won't take them long, and it isn't that expensive.
When I got my axles from the Gold Mine, I took pics of the door stickers so I would have the VINs from the newer trucks when I need parts for the newer axles. I had gotten the front axle from an 08 and the rear axle from an 05, so I had 2 VINs. Both VINs showed the correct axle ratios, which is why we picked the axles we did. I was trying to verify axle ratios on both axles just to be sure (since I was headed to Texas and could run to the Gold Mine if I needed more info). The tag on the rear axle showed 3.73, but I couldn't read anything on the front axle. I had the VIN from the truck and looked it up on the old interwebs, but everywhere I looked it kept coming back as a 2 wheel drive truck. Now, we took the axle off of the truck and it was riveted on so I was pretty darn sure it came from the factory as a 4 wheel drive truck. After sand blasting the tag on the front axle, I finally make out a ratio of 3.55. However that does not agree with the VIN. The VIN is on the B post not the door on this truck. I went to the Ford dealer and they confirmed that the VIN I have is from a 2 wheel drive truck with 3.73 gears. Now I have a reason to go to the Gold Mine while I'm in Texas (like I need a reason). I check and I did take a pic of the correct truck, and it matches the VIN in the windshield. I can't locate the VIN on the passenger side frame rail. I check the rear axle tag since it is still there and low and behold it is a 3.55. As I'm looking around the truck trying to figure out where else I could find the VIN, I see another tag higher up on the B post, and whatta you know it has a different VIN on it. After some searching and calling the Ford dealer I verify this other VIN is from a 4 wheel drive truck that had 3.55 gears in it.
So somebody took a cab from a 2 wheel drive and put it on a 4x4 frame. I can only imagine the fight I would have gotten into with the poor parts guy trying to find parts for my front axle using a 2 wheel drive VIN. Luckily whoever did this did it the legal way and I was able to find this tag.
Now I have a front 3.55 and rear 3.73 axle. I'll probably get a good look at both sets of gears and see if either set looks suspect before I decide which gear set gets replaced. Any suggestions to which ratio to use?
Just be sure you check out the parts you are getting from a salvage yard. And then check it a couple more times.
Tire size would be the big decider on what gear to run
31" tire or smaller, light to no towing I'd look at 3.55's
32-34" tire, moderate towing would be 3.73 range
35"+ is 4.10 or lower
I also want to thank you for your write up on the axle swap. I bought an 04 X with the 6.0. looking at buying a 2006 F250 axle assembly (axle, steering box, steering components, springs, radius arms, calipers and brake lines).The axle was rebuilt in February and then the motor went to it really wasn't used. It has a Redhead steering box, new ball joints, new shocks, new 2 in level kit, new wheel bearings, new hubs, new calipers and rotors and same gear ratio as my current 3.73's. Does $1500 seem fair? I live in Utah so it is a little rusty on the axle itself. I plan on buying new coil buckets and radius arm brackets to save my self the heartache of removing rivets. do you happen to have part numbers handy? I thought you posted a picture of this but I couldn't find it again. Any idea if I could fit a 35 inch tire with that setup? do I need to replace the rear axle? Would this cause any fitment issues? one axle sticking further out than the other?
I cant find your response on visitor messages section on your page? I sent you another message and it shows those are the only 2 messages in the conversation?.
It appears it was too long, and it was rejected. I didn't catch the rejection notice. Here you go:
$1500 for only the front axle is a bit high here in Texas. Unless you can verify all those new parts...then it might be worth it.
I don't have the part numbers handy for the buckets and brackets, but they are in the thread. Shouldn't be hard to find with a little internet kung fu.
This modification, without any lifts added, will raise your Excursion front end 2". Well, it raised mine 2" with D coils. That is 2" over stock U code front springs. If you keep the 2" leveling kit and stock rear springs, you will be nose high/rear end low. Once you get rid of the leaf springs and switch to coils, you will be able to fit 35" tires under it no problem. Biggest problems with bigger tires is the leaf spring rub...and you won't have to worry about that if you do the swap to coils.
If you don't replace the rear axle, it will not look quite right. The newer axles are 3" wider. You also wouldn't benefit from the bigger rear brakes on the newer axles. You would need spacers to make it look correct in the rear, since you would have to run the newer 17", 18" or 20" rims on the front. The offset on the newer rims would cause problems in the back without spacers. Spacers are not cheap, and there are some concerns with early outer bearing failure if you use them.
Mike - thanks for your reply. I would imagine the 06 axles are the same as the 07’s you used on your conversion?
I will I’ll have to see if the seller can provide me with paperwork showing the rebuild. Obviously I’d be able to see the calipers, ball joints rotors and the other stuff. The only thing I wouldn’t be able to see is the seals. He wants 600 for the rear axle it too has new calipers and rotors. Fair price?
No wheels and tires included, I think he already sold those. I plan on running with some 20 inch aftermarket anyway. He said the hubs and bearings are NAPA and the seals are ford. Trying to get some receipts to verify everything. Based off the parts you bought rebuilding your axles from what I could get a set at a junk yard for they seem like a fair deal. I think if I can get both for 1800 I’ll take them.
Just to confirm the things I need to get are:
full axle assembly, springs, shocks, brakes with lines, alll steering components, radius arms, trac bar and all mounting hardware, steering box with line to the hydro boost, master cylinder all nuts, washers and bolts. I plan on buying new coil buckets and radius arm mounts.
Rear axle assembly with springs, brake lines and sway bar.
Thanks for all your help Mike. I am excited to get this project going. I have some big plans for the X and this is just the beginning of what I have planned.
Yoir probably right that i could find some take offs but I want some 20x10’s I think.
