Speaking of turning radius...

I was at an ATM the other day, and I ALWAYS had to do a 3 point turn to get into that thing. Not any more. I can just make it now with the new turn radius these axles give me. Downside to the ATM scene is I now cannot reach the cash dispenser since I lifted the front of the X a little. I have to pull up and open the door to use the machine. Oh well...

After one week, no leaks from the brake lines I reflared, no leaks from the power steering system, the X stops unbelievably quick, the ride is phenomenal with the springs I have on it and it is now super quiet on the highway. My MPGs also have gone up, but I need to put a calculator to it on the next long trip.

Picked up the driveshaft today. They shortened it 2 inches, balanced it and painted it. Bill was $115, which was much lower than I was quoted on the phone ($175). Happy with that turnout. Driveshaft now has a "working length" of 41.25" with the slip joint extended.

Sorry Y2k, I have ZERO plans to set foot in CA ever again, but you are welcome to stop by here anytime.

 

I installed the front driveshaft today. 4X4 works like it should. I seem to have developed a binding in the rear axle when turning, though. I think it needs some friction modifier added, as there does not seem to have been enough in the Mobile 1 synthetic I put in it. When I used the Mobile 1 w/friction modifier on the old axle years ago, I never had a problem with binding...so a bit surprised.

I did have to chase the threads on the pinion yoke on the Dana 60. They were full of the old blue/green loctite and rust. I couldn't get the new bolts to thread in without a lot of resistance. Chased with a 5/16-24 tap and all was right again. Bolts went right in after that. Highly recommend doing this while the axle is out and more accessible. Not much fun while laying on your side under the truck.

 

That surprises me too. I've used Mobil 1 Synthetic in the rear since I bought my truck (10+ years) and have not needed to add additional friction modifier either.

 

I bought 4 ounces of the XL-3 from the dealer today. I added 2 ounces, and I'll drive it 30 miles to work and see if it clears up. If not, I will add the rest of the bottle. If the oil I had used did not have ANY friction modifier in it, I would have just used all 4 ounces.

I walked next to it while the wife turned slowly in circles, and I can clearly see the back tires "shuddering" while turning. When I put my hand on the tire while it is rotating, I can feel the binding as well. Makes a groaning sound more than a chattering sound. Only does it when turning, but especially when turning LEFT. The old fluid in this axle looked really good. No metal in the bottom of the housing, and very little clutch material in the bottom or on the magnet. If anyone has any other ideas, I am all ears.

 

Pour it all in, a little extra is better than not enough.

 

Some people create "build threads" which are nothing more than glorified shopping lists selecting new wheels, tires, a bolt on tail pipe, a new air cleaner, a couple of gauges, and a question about which chip to buy.


And then there are build threads. That's what this one is.

 

A true compliment when coming from you. Thank you.

 

I thought it was pretty cool too...gave him some reps for it!

Stewart

 

I think you are on the right track with the friction modifier. On the early super duty axles, the limited slip axles would hardly ever engage. I never used any friction modifier when replacing fluid in those. I would only add enough until you are happy with the engagement. If you add too much, it won't work when you need it. I can remember being on wet grass in my '99 F350 and not being able to move without 4WD. That is not what you want.

 

Well, 2 ounces of the friction modifier got rid of most of the binding. I gave it a couple of days, and it got as good as it was going to get with 2 ounces. So, with a little binding and groaning still going on, I put the other 2 ounces in. Will give that a couple of days to soak in, but even after a few hours of the clutches soaking up the modifier it is already getting better than with the first 2 ounces.

500 mile report can now be made:

- Turning radius is GREATLY improved...Not just a little. I can turn into places and around things I could not even come close to before. Steering is easier/more effortless.
- Stock power steering pump is playing very well with the new steering components, and is making no noises. It did take about 2 days to work the air out.
- Braking is GREATLY increased. I am in awe of the improvement here. Better than I expected.
- Limited slip clutches in the rear axle are coming along with the addition of 4 ounces of XL-3
- No leaks from my re-flared brake lines.
- No leaks from the power steering system
- 4x4 works correctly
- Ball joints have loosened up and steering is back to normal with 1/2" of play in steering wheel. Having no play at all was not much fun to drive...way too sensitive/touchy. I'll gladly take the 1/2".
- Cruise control works flawlessly with the new master cylinder.
- Parking brake needs more adjustment in the cables. It is too loose, and I have to push it all the way to the floor for it to really grab. I'll be looking at this over the next week.

 

So many tech threads out there that end after the installation. Thanks for the report!

 

Well your in luck Y2K - look what I found for you!

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/pts...515160126.html

It even has your deep 4:88 gears.

Tim M

 

May be a decent price in Ca. but we bought a rolling chassis with cab for 1500, sold the cab for 500 to a friend.
As long as both have Dana S110 rears all one needs to change the back on a 450/550 is the hubs and rotors unless you want to get into changing out a bunch of the parking brake cables and stuff.
The Dana Super 60 on 450/550's moves the wheels out 1 1/2" on each side requiring one to use the 05-up fender flares, both the donor truck and mine where white so we just swapped the fenders.



Original 04 leaf spring front




After 07 coil spring front, Dana Super 60 axle and 07 fender swap Rear hubs and rotors also changed to 10 lug

 

Tim, did you weld the fenders and square tubular jack post gusset on that trailer?? It looks fantastic! I had offered to weld new fenders for you, but man, I'm not sure that I would have done as beautiful a job as you ended up doing. The things I miss out on around here!

Sorry... back to regular programming.

Yes it's true. I want to do what Mike and DeStroked did.

 

I wish, I couldn't weld that well unless I took a class or you were by my side helping me out. I still have the old fenders if you are interested in them?

Tim M