Well, been driving it to and from work the past few days trying to get some miles on the ball joints so they will loosen up. I reckon' I have around 250 miles on it so far. Ball joints are still very tight. I think I am going to knock them loose and re-torque this weekend. I have read that is what it took for others to correct this condition quicker without waiting 1k or 2k miles for it to self-correct.

The front springs from the donor were "D" codes. That is a 5600 lb coil spring (as a set). As we all know, the "V" codes I had were 5200 lb springs. A "C" code coil is equivalent to an "X" code leaf spring at 6000 lbs. So I stepped up to that gray area between the V and X codes, and I LOVE IT! It rides great on the highway and on the bumps and pot holes. It is certainly stiffer than the V codes, but it is also softer...if that makes sense.

I had a slight whine when I would decelerate...which was the opposite of my old axles that were whining when accelerating. I tightened the pinion nut 1/8 of a turn...maybe less, and the whine is now gone. I hear nothing but tires on the pavement at highway speed. Now, at low speed, I have a "squeak, squeak, squeak" coming from the drive line. I put it on jack stands, put the transmission in neutral, and I spun the drive shaft many times. I seem to have the squeak narrowed down to the input bearing on the transfer case. I need to get a stethoscope to be 100%, but I am pretty sure I am right. 308k miles, and that bearing is probably just done. I couldn't hear it before, but I wasn't looking/listening so close as I am now after this major surgery, either.

I'll update after the weekend when I take a look at ball joints.

 

The squeak squeak squeak at low speeds sure does sound like a bad u joint. Did you replace the u joints after this major overhaul?

 

My 450 had 6000lb leaf and rode pretty stiff, the 550 axle we used had 6500 lb coils.
450-550's set pretty high in the front and I wanted to soften the ride some, installed a set of 5600 coils for a crew cab PS 350, lowered the front 2 1/2" giving a slight rake that I like and it rides much smoother than the original 6000 lb leaf springs did.
I mainly pull GN trailers that load the rear axle and seldom carry any thing on the truck that would put any more load on the front, so wasn't worried about giving up a little spring capacity on the front.

You rig is looking good and you've do a really nice job, the attention to detail and many photos will benefit anyone that's wants to to this conversion.

I myself have learned some of the differences between the 250/350 chassis and the 450/550 chassis.

 

Brand new u-joints (Spicer) on the drive shaft right after the swap. Someone here suggested it, and I jumped on that suggestion...because it was a good one. The squeak was there before and after the u-joints got done. The old ones were tired, but they weren't bad/gone yet after 308k. The front driveshaft is getting shortened right now, and I should be picking it up tomorrow. I am going to put new joints on it, too. The double cardan on it will also get new parts.

If the transfer case needs new bearings, and it likely does after 308k, then I will just do it myself. It aint' all that hard. I have the big Ford tool kit to service it/take it apart (and the 271 manual shift) here at the house.

 

I thought I wanted to go to the C coils, but I am sure glad I didn't. It would have been too much for the X as a daily driver. Now, if I were going to hang another Ranch Hand on the front and install a front mounted winch, I would certainly entertain the idea again. The C code springs are not all that expensive, and they are SUPER easy to swap in/out. Much easier than leafs. Just have to watch those pinion angles and the track bar length.

Thank you, thank you, thank you for the compliments. I wanted this to be a tutorial for others coming behind me that update their X to more modern FORD spec. axles. Just getting the bigger brakes is a huge deal when towing. I really like the way it sits...almost level front to back...and the 18" rims change the appearance dramatically. No spacers is a huge bonus for my bearings and ball joints, too...as well as my pocket.

 

Does anyone need FREE, rust-free parts for their stock front axles?

- Spring top plates
- spring hangers (stock)
- bottom piece/bracket on driver side that anti-sway bar attaches to
- upper mounting brackets for shocks
- front sway bar and bushing/brackets
- stock steering gear that works great. I had no issues with it at all. Truck drove straight as an arrow before the mod with no steering wander. ***TAKEN***
- 1 3/8 master cylinder (stock). Works great.
- 1 1/2 master cylinder (newer one) the plastic on the reservoir is cloudy from sitting in the salvage yard, but OK otherwise. This is an extra I ended up with.

I'll be heading through NE TX, AR, TN, KY, WV, VA and PA in a couple of months. I can deliver along the way or meet you somewhere close to my travel path if you need these rust free parts for your X. Or I can ship them to you at your expense.

 

Don't need any parts but let me know when you'll be headed thru Ky, I'd like to see your X in person, buy you a cup of jo, show you my Fummins conversion.
I'm about 25 miles west of Fort Knox.

 

I'll be passing through Elizabethtown after visiting Thor in Nashville. I would LOVE to see your Fummins.

Should be passing through second week of May.

 

I recalibrated my speedo today from 645 revs per mile to 608 revs per mile. Used my NGS tester with service card to perform the task. Here are the basics:





This is done through the ABS module, not the GEM on '00-'01 models.

So, with the correct reading now on the speedo, I am turning 1800 RPMs at 70 mph with 275/70 R18 tires. That is vs 2100 RPMs with the 265/75 R16 tires I had before. I'll have to calculate new fuel mileage on the next trip to the farm. I am expecting a slight improvement from my usual 20.5 HWY/MPG to and from.

 

Ok that's only 35 miles from me and I have family there.
We'll be gearing up for hay season around that time.
Give me a shout on this thread or send a PM and I'll give you my cell number
Lots of good eateries on the left side of exit 94 off of I-65.
Cracker Barrel, Texas Roadhouse, burger joints, ect.

 

just put bigger lift on it then the front shaft will be proper length

 

My wife would not go for that at all, Skip.

 

What about lift plus retractable steps?

 

$115 to shorten the shaft is cheaper than the retractable steps, AND my younger kids can still get in it at this height. In the end, I am just not a lift and big tires kind of guy.

I pick up the modified shaft tomorrow. It will now be the same length as the shaft on an '07 F250. The shaft on my donor was already gone when I found it.

 

Can you swing by CA on the way? I'd love to see your front end conversion. Between DeStroked450's front frame section replacement, and your meticulous conversion details... there is a blueprint of what I'll have to do if I want to reduce my current 71 foot turn circle diameter down to 51 feet.