'07 axles under the '01 Excursion - Conversion Thread
Waylan
In in my experience the stock 05-07 bolts are not long enough and only engaged half of the threads in the steering box. I used longer flange head bolts and would encourage you to make sure the stock bolts fully engage the steering box.
Matt (msuser) contacted me about building them, and I agreed to build/install one if he sourced the parts. My hats off to him for doing all the leg work and research to build the bars. He is awesome to say the least, and his thread regarding his complete rebuild of his Excursion (that led to him doing the track bar upgrade) from the ground up is worth a look. Very educational in its own right.
I cannot say enough about the difference this bar makes over the stock bar with the (lousy) ball joint. 90% of the road feedback to the steering wheel is eliminated. We were able to build these for about $300 (with powder coating the bar). Maybe Matt can post the parts he ordered in his build thread when he gets time...
As a little background to the install, my MevoTech tie rods completely wore out after 40K miles. I replaced those with Moog ends, and things got back to better...but not what it was right after initial install of these axles. The ball joint on the axle for the stock track bar wore out shortly after the tie rods at 42K, and I got to experience the death wobble mentioned earlier in this thread when that happened. It was a white knuckle, terrifying experience. If I never do that again, it will be too soon. I replaced that Moog Heavy Duty ball joint with a Motorcraft the next day. It was much better, but I could still feel the road feed back in the steering wheel in the bigger bumps. I just didn't trust it any more after the death wobble experience. Ironically, Matt called me a week later and asked me if I was in to build our own track bars. Boy was I ever. Talk about good timing, as I about to send Baja Customs a bunch of my money...
I have had no problems with the 05-07 bolts that I used to attach the 07 steering box. Still tight and holding fine. I don't recall noticing a problem with length...just diameter. I think there might be a problem on length with the 08-10 bolts, though.
Brakes installed. I used the '07 lines, but I could have used my Russell lines. They just would have went to the rear of the coil bucket like they originally did, and I would have drilled a new hole for that little bracket I took off when I removed the stock upper shock mount.
Routing the vacuum line up the brake line. I reused some plastic clips from the donor. I didn't get enough of them though. Needed two more for the other side...
My question is...what did you do with the extra length of brake hard line? As you know, the leaf spring trucks the hard line to flexible line connects behind the shock mount. On the coil spring truck, it connects in front of the coil bucket....which leaves some extra hard line. I was thinking of cutting it off and reflare...but the word on the street is double flaring 3/16" SSTL is difficult.
Matt (msuser) contacted me about building them, and I agreed to build/install one if he sourced the parts. My hats off to him for doing all the leg work and research to build the bars. He is awesome to say the least, and his thread regarding his complete rebuild of his Excursion (that led to him doing the track bar upgrade) from the ground up is worth a look. Very educational in its own right.
I cannot say enough about the difference this bar makes over the stock bar with the (lousy) ball joint. 90% of the road feedback to the steering wheel is eliminated. We were able to build these for about $300 (with powder coating the bar). Maybe Matt can post the parts he ordered in his build thread when he gets time...
As a little background to the install, my MevoTech tie rods completely wore out after 40K miles. I replaced those with Moog ends, and things got back to better...but not what it was right after initial install of these axles. The ball joint on the axle for the stock track bar wore out shortly after the tie rods at 42K, and I got to experience the death wobble mentioned earlier in this thread when that happened. It was a white knuckle, terrifying experience. If I never do that again, it will be too soon. I replaced that Moog Heavy Duty ball joint with a Motorcraft the next day. It was much better, but I could still feel the road feed back in the steering wheel in the bigger bumps. I just didn't trust it any more after the death wobble experience. Ironically, Matt called me a week later and asked me if I was in to build our own track bars. Boy was I ever. Talk about good timing, as I about to send Baja Customs a bunch of my money...
I have had no problems with the 05-07 bolts that I used to attach the 07 steering box. Still tight and holding fine. I don't recall noticing a problem with length...just diameter. I think there might be a problem on length with the 08-10 bolts, though.
Here are the part numbers at Summit Racing
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/FKB-FKSSX16T-F1 Spherical bearing. This is held in a custom made cup by an internal snap ring, and the cup held into the axle with an external snap ring.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/FKB-JMX16T-F1 Heim. This has a custom made bushing in the bearing and held into the frame bracket with the existing bolt.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fkb-16-12hb Misalignment bushing. These are too long and need to be machined down.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fkb-sjnr16 Jam nut for Heim
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sit-ws10006pk Heim seals
This is from McMaster-Carr
90201A657
90850A400
93591A700
98410A520
The rest of the parts (bar, yoke, spacers for Heim) were all made/machined at a local machine shop.
I don't know for sure what size the internal snap ring is, but I have mine and I'll measure it.
The first 4 items at Summit are made by FK Rod Ends ? Precision Rod Ends and Spherical Bearings. If you take off the first 3 letters of the Summit part number (FKB), and the F1 at the end of both bearings, that is the FK Rod Ends part number. F1=Fit 1 which is the tightest bearing, followed by F2 (the default if you don't specify) and F3 (the loosest).
My steering gear bolts were also too short.
Now I need to get busy and updte my build thread.
Here are the part numbers at Summit Racing
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/FKB-FKSSX16T-F1 Spherical bearing. This is held in a custom made cup by an internal snap ring, and the cup held into the axle with an external snap ring.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/FKB-JMX16T-F1 Heim. This has a custom made bushing in the bearing and held into the frame bracket with the existing bolt.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fkb-16-12hb Misalignment bushing. These are too long and need to be machined down.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fkb-sjnr16 Jam nut for Heim
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sit-ws10006pk Heim seals
This is from McMaster-Carr
90201A657
90850A400
93591A700
98410A520
The rest of the parts (bar, yoke, spacers for Heim) were all made/machined at a local machine shop.
I don't know for sure what size the internal snap ring is, but I have mine and I'll measure it.
The first 4 items at Summit are made by FK Rod Ends ? Precision Rod Ends and Spherical Bearings. If you take off the first 3 letters of the Summit part number (FKB), and the F1 at the end of both bearings, that is the FK Rod Ends part number. F1=Fit 1 which is the tightest bearing, followed by F2 (the default if you don't specify) and F3 (the loosest).
My steering gear bolts were also too short.
Now I need to get busy and updte my build thread.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Excursion/older style
Newer style
Original idea to use the cables from donor was due to different attachment method on brake shield.










