I show those as the RWD buckets

 

Hey Mike, you have done an amazing job and helped so many understand the scope, the pitfalls of this mod and how to avoid them as well so thank you!

I have a few questions...
Did you clean the inside of the front axle tubes? If so what tool(s) did you use?

Did you end up going with the 2008 master cylinder versus 05-07? Have a psrt number by chance?

Can the shock mount locator pin be moved on the rear axle? Any idea how they are attached to the tube?

You used some different paints & coatings and was curious if you could give s brief rundown on how each fared and how they compare after 40k+ miles? Essentially what would you use with 40k miles of experience?

Thank you

 

David, I cleaned the axles tubes to the extent I scraped all the debris out. I did not scrub out what little rust was in there. I got a big washer, cut it in half and welded the half onto a long piece of rebar. Then I used that to scrape the inside surface of the axle tube free of debris. Really only need to do this on the passenger side.

I used a '08 master cylinder. Part numbers are: '07 #5C3Z-2140-HA and '08 #7C3Z-2140-F
My only real reason for using the '08 over the '07 was the overall condition of the unit...including the reservoir...which I could have just swapped out.

The locator pin on the passenger side (the only one we Excursion guys are worried about), is part of the rear axle casting. It could be ground off and a new one welded on, or you could grind it off and weld the entire shock mount to the axle on that side. F250 owners are not worried about this.

All the paints/coatings I used are still there and doing well. On the front of the Dana 60, road debris and rocks are slowly chipping away at it...but that was the case with the factory paint as well. I am in a really friendly climate for any paint testing, though. No salt, no ice and no rust to deal with. I'd use the same coatings again down here.

 

I installed the BD Diesel caster kit for the radius arms yesterday.





There is welding involved, so make sure you have a decent little MIG unit that can handle 3/16" material. Really a chore getting the arms back on after adding the cam to that lower bolt. I had to use ratchet straps and lots of effort to get the bolts to line up. I also replaced all the tie rod ends. The joint up at the pitman arm was completely toast (like a wet noodle) after 40k miles. The others weren't as bad, but definitely worn out.

Here is why you cannot count threads when putting the new ends on (I said this before in this thread):

New one on top, old one on bottom.

That is a Moog going on, and a Mevotech coming off. They are not the same overall length, and they do not have the same thread length/shoulder length. I measured the drag link from end to end to the 1/16", and then I measured the tie rod assembly from end to end to the 1/16". When I put the new ones on (all Moog), I made sure it was exactly the same overall length as what came off. First test drive was straight down the road with no pull either way. I need to schedule an alignment, but I bet they barely have to adjust.

My ball joints are still tight, so I left them alone for now. I am going to pull the 2* caster sleeves when they wear out some more, and I'm putting in 0* sleeves at that time to eliminate the extreme angle on the top joint.

Gonna drive it to work tomorrow and see how it does on the highway after all this.

 

Post up the correct numbers please!

 

Dan, I think you have the right numbers. I found this from earlier in the thread: 5C3Z-5793-CA spring bucket right $48, but I could not find the left side number. Yours is probably right.

 

Pirate posted a Tasca page that had one p/n on it. I guess I'll drive to AutoNation and get them.

 

Left side 5C3Z-5A306-CA
Right side 5C3Z-5793-CA

 

Mike, was the other reason you chose the 08 MC due to the flare type? 05-07 had bubble flare versus the 08- 10 uses a double flare?

Does anyone see a problem changing the master cylinder before doing the axle swap?

Anyone know of a quality & trusted online leaf spring supplier? All the local salvage options are in terrible condition.

 

I didn't really consider the flares, but I do prefer the double over the bubble.

I don't see a problem with switching the MC before. You will have a different pedal feel, but it will work just fine.

ATS has a great reputation here for their service and expertise. Everyone running their springs is pretty happy. If you want a 4-5" lift, the Procomp springs for the rear could be a good choice.

 

Not really wanting to lift any more than the 2" from the axle swap. I'll give ATS a call.

Thanks for the lead!

 

FYI - Ford raised the cost on these parts and White Bear Lake has already gone through stock so now selling at the higher price. If you have plans on buying these you should do so before other dealers go through stock and raise prices accordingly.

Edit: Apparently Mike has driven up demand for these parts so maybe Ford is funding his future endeavors!]

 

Well, the replacement of tie rod ends and the BD caster kit resolved the "wobble" that was starting to manifest itself. It is back to being stable and solid again across all the major road bumps on my way to and from work.

 

if you can live with 3” the procomp 22415 will eliminate the stock rear block. you will need a 2* shim to correct drive line angle.

 

Thanks Pirate,
So that would be 3" over stock Ex height? Do I need to do any of the spring mods using leaf's from my old pack or these would be plug and play?